Different pilot jet sizes

[blade]

I took the petcocks off and did the vacuum valve mod. Next I removed the vacuum tube to #4 carb boot and put tube between the two petcocks to each vacuum port. I capped the #4 car boot.
I took it for a ride and it does seem better but at times it will hang at around 3k rpm when I pull the clutch in and take a while to return to idle.

I checked the throttle cable where it meets the carbs, it is fully seated, when I twist the throttle and it snaps back fully with a little slack in the cable.

Tomorrow I am going to borrow a friends vacuum synch. Hopefully that is where the problem is. After the synch I will adjust the mixture screws.

I have noticed that at idle I can smell gas coming from the exhaust pipes, it is not a very strong smell but I did notice it. I have read some other posts that say it is normal as the xs's run rich at idle but I didn't know what to think. It could be from carbs being slightly out of synch.
It is running great apart from the idle/rpm issue.

I really want to ride it more but I am nervous about doing some kind of damage to the engine.

[blade]

I think he's saying when he shuts the throttle the RPMS remain "high" for a little while before coming back to idle, could be caused by the extra fuel, a vacuum leak, or out of synch carbs.

Yes, that is what I meant.
I am quite sure it is not the carbs being synched because when I unhook the vacuum tube and block off the hole on the #4 carb manifold I don't have the over rev problem.

[psycoreefer]

I think he's saying when he shuts the throttle the RPMS remain "high" for a little while before coming back to idle, could be caused by the extra fuel, a vacuum leak, or out of synch carbs.

[dbeardslee]

When you say over run, are you saying gas is coming out of the carb bells? That's a sign of two things - one, your octopus isn't shutting off the fuel flow, and two, your fuel valves aren't sealing in the carbs.

[blade]

oops double post

[blade]

yup, fix that vacuum line pulling fuel, that would really be throwing #4 off. Also if you didn't you should do a vacuum synch on the carbs, will make it much smoother.

I am glad yo think so too. Does that make sense that the over run would be associated with the leaky vacuum?
I haven't done a vacuum synch yet, but I did synch them with a thin wire to get them close. It seems pretty close to me, but I won't know till I do a vac synch.

[psycoreefer]

yup, fix that vacuum line pulling fuel, that would really be throwing #4 off. Also if you didn't you should do a vacuum synch on the carbs, will make it much smoother.

[blade]

Half the time the el-cheapos are the best. I might have to pick one up - then I can stop borrowing my brothers . When you check the timing, you'll usually get better results if you hook the timing light to an external power source - like a battery charger or a car battery (not in the car, at least not while the car is running.) You want to plug the vacuum advance and keep it at 1100 rpms if you're setting/checking the timing, but if you want to see how far it's advancing, then don't (duh ).

Thanks for all the good advice, I am glad I can go back through the posts because it would be hard to remember everything.

[blade]

Well, I put the new plugs in, NGK BR6ES instead of the br8's the PO had in.
I took it for a ride and now I have power, lots of it and all the way through the rev band. I am happy that the jet change, the emulsion tube clean and the plugs change have fixed the 4-5k rpm problem.

On a side note I am getting a over run on the rpm's sometimes when I cut the throttle.
I think it is because of the leaky vacuum on the petcock is sucking fuel into the #4 cyl.
I am going to do the vacuum bypass mod and block the prime so I will have an off position. Hopefully that is why I am getting the over run.
I think it is, because after I get on the throttle there seems to be a lot of fuel going to #4 from the petcock, when I release the throttle after a while the fuel disappears from the vacuum tube and the rpm's return to normal.

[dbeardslee]

Half the time the el-cheapos are the best. I might have to pick one up - then I can stop borrowing my brothers . When you check the timing, you'll usually get better results if you hook the timing light to an external power source - like a battery charger or a car battery (not in the car, at least not while the car is running.) You want to plug the vacuum advance and keep it at 1100 rpms if you're setting/checking the timing, but if you want to see how far it's advancing, then don't (duh ).

[blade]

Yep, Harbor Freight....

http://www.harborfreight.com/xenon-t...ight-3343.html

Looks good to me. Like I would know. I have never had one before.
The price is right anyway.
Thanks

[psycoreefer]

yup, I've got that one, works fine for limited occasional use, must have been on sale when I got mine though, I think I only paid 7.

[bikerphil]

Yep, Harbor Freight....

http://www.harborfreight.com/xenon-t...ight-3343.html

[blade]

"Put a timing light on it to check max advance"

I just realized I need to get a timing light too.
Any one have any suggestions on a reasonably priced one?

[blade]

"I don't think I'd trust the analog as much on the voltage readings though, only because you can't read the analog as precisely."

I agree, especially with my analog. It sounds like a DMM would make more sense, at least for me.