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  • #16
    Originally posted by trbig View Post
    even if you find one that works correctly, you turn your motor until the cam lobe pushes the valve all the way open, use the tool to lock it in place there, then rotate your motor (Meaning.. move your pistons up and down with a valve held wide open..) while you rotate the cam lobe out of the way.

    Some may be scared to loosen the cam caps, but that scenario using the tool personally scares me more.

    Tod
    Ummmm....hey Tod, if it gets REALLY hard to turn........FREAKIN' STOP! You've gone too far!

    You just have to feel for the edge of the bucket on it's way down, lock the tool, and reverse the direction of the crankshaft.

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    • #17
      DB, I can't find it at the moment, I think I lent it to another member (CRS). IIRC, I had to grind the inner part of the curve closest to the cam, and also enlarge both of the holes for holding the tool in place. I'll take a pic. once I locate it.
      2H7 (79) owned since '89
      3H3 owned since '06

      "If it ain't broke, modify it"

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      • #18
        Originally posted by XS1100 Newbie View Post
        I will say you don't need any of these tools, and you don't need to loosen your cams. I watched and learned as Larry checked and adjusted mine with only a 1/4" tip screwdriver, and a couple of pieces of bondo spreading tools. Simple and easy. About an hour.
        Not the same Larry, but that's how I adjust mine also.

        Larry
        Inventor of the YICS Eliminator. Want one? Get it here.
        http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread...399#post183399

        If you're not riding, you're not living!
        82 XJ1100
        80 XS1100G (Project bike)
        64 Yamaha YA-6
        77 Suzuki TS-185

        79 XS1100SF Built this one for a friend.
        See it here... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cBYT4C9_6Ac

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        • #19
          Ummmm....hey Tod, if it gets REALLY hard to turn........FREAKIN' STOP! You've gone too far!

          That's the problem. You can turn the motor at the crank VERY carefully. I guess because it's basically at the end of a fulcrom when the piston is up at the top of it's compression stroke and the valves are very weak to sideways movement, but you'll never feel the piston and valve make contact. You'll just all of a sudden have huge gaps between the cam and shim.

          Go ahead... ask me how I know. lol.


          Tod
          Try your hardest to be the kind of person your dog thinks you are.

          You can live to be 100, as long as you give up everything that would make you want to live to be 100!

          Current bikes:
          '06 Suzuki DR650
          *'82 XJ1100 with the 1179 kit. "Mad Maxim"
          '82 XJ1100 Completely stock fixer-upper
          '82 XJ1100 Bagger fixer-upper
          '82 XJ1100 Motor/frame and lots of boxes of parts
          '82 XJ1100 Parts bike
          '81 XS1100 Special
          '81 YZ250
          '80 XS850 Special
          '80 XR100
          *Crashed/Totalled, still own

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          • #20
            uh ya, sorry Yahman i meant the Larry in Kelso.
            1980 XS1100LG Midnight
            1991 Honda CBR1000F Hurricane


            "The hand is almost valueless at one end of the arm if there be not a brain at the other"

            Here's to a long life and a happy one.
            A quick death and an easy one.
            A pretty girl and an honest one.
            A cold beer and another one!

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            • #21
              As promised, pics of ground down valve shim tool....



              2H7 (79) owned since '89
              3H3 owned since '06

              "If it ain't broke, modify it"

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              • #22
                Mine worked fine right out of the box..............go figure.


                BTW....master of SEXology.....how do you know. Take the plugs out and you don't HAVE to fight the compression.

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                • #23
                  Phil - that makes a lot of sense. Would also explain why I have always had bad luck with the tool - must not have been clearing the cams.
                  I think I have a loose screw behind the handlebars.

                  '79 XS11 Standard, Jardine 4/1, Dyna DC1-1 Coils, 145 mains, 45 pilots, plastic floats - 25.7mm, XV920 fuel valves, inline fuel filters, speed bleeders, Mikes XS pods, spade-type fuse block, fork brace, progressive fork springs/shocks, manual petcocks, 750 FD, Venture cam chain tensioner, SS brake lines

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