Need to bleed.

[draketrumpet]

So, after my rear brakes locked up on me yesterday, I decided I needed to bleed them in a bad way and clean my spooge hole while I'm at it. Looking over the manual/techtips it seems fairly straightforward if longish. I do have one question though, that will hopefully save me some time and looking like an idiot to non-XSsives. Where can I get nifty 3/16 in. plastic tubing to plug into my bleed valve. I know, I know, you're like, that's it, that's the question? Yep. I'm a noob so I have no idea. I'd probably go to autozone and they'd send me to lowes who would sent me to ace who would send me to salvation army to fill out a job app , at least I could quit school then

TIA

[CatatonicBug]

The first time I did it, I took the bled screw out and took it to a local hardware store. It wasn't a chain store though. I found the rack of tubing spools, and identified which size I needed.

I'd say just about any good neighborhood hardware store should have a rack of clear tubing that will work.

[draketrumpet]

Just wanted to make sure

the manual seems to indicate I can bleed without taking the brake off of the rotor. Am I understanding this correctly?

[DGXSER]

If you drained the fluid from the MC and the brake caliper on the rear, it is a very trying process to bleed that system out. Most people end up using a mity-vac to get it bled out.

[CatatonicBug]

the manual seems to indicate I can bleed without taking the brake off of the rotor. Am I understanding this correctly?

If bleeding is all you are trying to do, yes, you can bleed it while installed. However, with your issue, you will be better served by removing the caliper, taking the piston out, removing the piston seals and cleaning BEHIND them. If you take the extra time to clean it thoroughly, you won't have to go back and do it again for another few years. If you take the short cut, you might get stuck again. A ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure...

Remember to take your Master cylinder off and clean all the internals in there too. Also remember to "bench bleed" the master cylinder, and prime the caliper by filling it with fluid before re-instaling. The more air you can displace with fluid, the easier it will be to bleed the remaining air out.

[TomRodgers]

JAT...im about to replace the rear caliper,m/c, and lines on the back of 'Sunshine.....i would think you could completely bleed the rear system off of the bike, with the caliper up in the air (above) the m/c to allow air to go in its intended natural direction...UP!!

[bikerphil]

The rear brake can be a real PITA to bleed on these bikes. A vacuum pump is the best way to go. Another way is to hang the rear caliper down as low as it will go with the bleeder screw open. Have the cap of the MC off while doing this. Let it drip for a while, keeping an eye on the fluid level so it doesn't run dry. Then colse the bleeder, install the caliper, and bleed again by depressing the pedal. HTH

[newc4]

Go to the local pet store and get some clear aquarium tubing. I've used it for years.

Darrell

[XS1100 Newbie]

Amen to taking the caliper apart to clean. It is most worth it. If not, you may, and probably will be taking it off again and doing it. To many of us have tried the short way and failed, and brakes are a good thing to have on two wheels.

[BigRed]

I'm looking at needing to do something to the brakes as well. I was just planning on flushing the fluid and moving the caliper pistons in and out a few times to see if that frees everything up. If I take the calipers apart, do I need to have a rebuild kit on hand to put them back together, or might I be able to clean and reuse all the parts?

The bike's been sitting for about 8 years. The brakes hold and release, but there is a lot of drag. I managed to free up all the drag by squeezing the calipers by hand and then tapping them with a rubber mallet. I don't want to need to try that while I'm riding

Thanks