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*&^%*%& Connectors!!!!!!

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  • #1

    *&^%*%& Connectors!!!!!!

    Ok, anyone have any tips on how to remove the pin and socket type connectors from the plastic housing. These are the type like are on the handle bar switches and the RLU.

    I bought the stupid tool from the electronics store and it is worthless, I spent at least an hour last night trying to get just a single pin out and failed. The tool I have is like a tube with a center rod that you can push down with you thumb. It seems to fit ok on the connectors but for some reason doesn't release them from the plastic housing.
    1979 xs1100 Special -
    Stock air box/K&N Filter, MAC 4-2 exhaust, Bad-Boy Air horn, TC fuse box, Windshield, Soft bags, Vetter Fairing, Blinkers->Run/Turn/Brake Lights, Headlight Modulator, hard wire GPS power

    Short Stack - 1981 xs1100 Standard - lowered for SWMBO.

    Originally posted by fredintoon
    Goes like a train, corners like a cow, shifts like a Russian tractor, drinks like a fish, you are gonna love it.
    My Bike:
    [link is broken]
    Tags: None
  • #2
    Yeah, these can drive you crazy...

    I've found that while pushing the tool onto the pin, you also have to push the pin into the socket from the other side as far as it will go. Wiggling the tool helps too.

    '78E original owner
    Fast, Cheap, Reliable... Pick any two

    '78E original owner - resto project
    '78E ???? owner - Modder project FJ forks, 4-piston calipers F/R, 160/80-16 rear tire
    '82 XJ rebuild project
    '80SG restified, red SOLD
    '79F parts...
    '81H more parts...

    Other current bikes:
    '93 XL1200 Anniversary Sportster 85RWHP
    '86 XL883/1200 Chopper
    '82 XL1000 w/1450cc Buell, Baker 6-speed, in-progress project
    Cage: '13 Mustang GT/CS with a few 'custom' touches
    Yep, can't leave nuthin' alone...

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    • #3
      Also, one size does NOT fit all. The bore of the tool has to fit the pin fairly snugly or it won't be able to compress the barbs that hold the pin in the connector housing. I have three different size of those tools here and they cover most of the connectors I work on.

      The advice to push the pin up at the same time you are pushing the tool down is good advice. Sometimes the pins can get loose in the housing and the tool can't compress the barbs enough.
      -- Clint
      1979 XS1100F - bought for $500 in 1989

      Comment

      • #4
        Yeah, I tried pushing the pins in from the back, while pushing the tool in from the front, really need about 4 hands to actually perform that maneuver.

        Any chance you know what "size" those pins are? I brought the RLU into the shop with me and the guy looked at his rack and picked out this tool, so I'm assuming he picked out the right size. It does seem to be a fairly snug fit.

        Guess I'll keep fighting it when I get home.
        1979 xs1100 Special -
        Stock air box/K&N Filter, MAC 4-2 exhaust, Bad-Boy Air horn, TC fuse box, Windshield, Soft bags, Vetter Fairing, Blinkers->Run/Turn/Brake Lights, Headlight Modulator, hard wire GPS power

        Short Stack - 1981 xs1100 Standard - lowered for SWMBO.

        Originally posted by fredintoon
        Goes like a train, corners like a cow, shifts like a Russian tractor, drinks like a fish, you are gonna love it.
        My Bike:
        [link is broken]

        Comment

        • #5
          If you're referring to the kind of connector with the little tabs, I always use the smallest flat head jewelers screwdriver from one of those cheapo sets. Kind of a PITA, but it works.
          2H7 (79) owned since '89
          3H3 owned since '06

          "If it ain't broke, modify it"

          ☮

          Comment

          • #6
            yes the kind with little tabs, but I think your thinking of the "flat" blade types with a single tab on the top. These are round, kinda like a bullet connector and have 2 tabs on opposite sides of them. what a PITA!
            1979 xs1100 Special -
            Stock air box/K&N Filter, MAC 4-2 exhaust, Bad-Boy Air horn, TC fuse box, Windshield, Soft bags, Vetter Fairing, Blinkers->Run/Turn/Brake Lights, Headlight Modulator, hard wire GPS power

            Short Stack - 1981 xs1100 Standard - lowered for SWMBO.

            Originally posted by fredintoon
            Goes like a train, corners like a cow, shifts like a Russian tractor, drinks like a fish, you are gonna love it.
            My Bike:
            [link is broken]

            Comment

            • #7
              Yep, sorry I was thinkin' the flat type. I've never tried taking those round ones apart.
              2H7 (79) owned since '89
              3H3 owned since '06

              "If it ain't broke, modify it"

              ☮

              Comment

              • #8
                I use a pair of pointy tweezers. Locate the tabs and grasp both sides with the tweezers. Then push toward the tweezers to be sure the tabs aren't stuck on anything, then pull the metal pin out of the plastic connector housing while wiggling in circles. It's not perfect, but I re-wired my trunk that way, using the same kind of connectors:

                1980 XS850SG - Sold
                1981 XS1100LH Midnight Special (Sold) - purchased 9/29/08
                Fully Vetterized and Dynojet Kit added, Heated Grips, Truck-Lite LED headlight, Accel Coils, Irridium plugs, TKAT Fork Brace, XS850LH Final Drive & Black SS Brake lines from Chacal.
                Here's my web page devoted to my bike! XS/XJ User's Manuals there, and the XJ1100 Service Manual and both XS1100 Service manuals (free download!).

                Whether you think you can, or you think you cannot - You're right.
                -H. Ford

                Comment

                • #9
                  definitely not fun

                  I made my own tools out of a $5 pick set I bought at Menards or somewhere like that. It came with several different styles (straight/flat, hooked, hooked/flat, etc) and I used a grinder to make them fit in the littl boogers. If you break one, you're out a fraction of a dollar.

                  I wish I had known there was a specific tool for them. There's no electronics stores in my area.
                  79 XS1100 Special - slowing breathing life back into it...

                  Comment

                  • #10
                    Your Molex Pin Extractor (the round one) should work fine. Make sure it fits the pin nice and snug and make sure its pushed all the way down. As already suggested push the pin in from the back until the tabs are released and then push the centre pin of the Molex tool. Dont pull on the wire ! The biggest mistake people make is trying to pull the pin out by yanking on the wire before the tabs are released. All that does is bend the tabs backwards and then the tool cant release them. Just take your time and make sure the tool is seated and you shouldnt have any problems.
                    1980 SG. (Sold - waiting on replacement)
                    2000 XJR1300. The Real modern XS11. Others are just pretenders.

                    Woman (well, my wife anyway) are always on Transmit and never Receive.

                    "A man should look for what is, and not for what he thinks should be" Albert Einstien.

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