Brake disc alignment

[Mstaab]

Something isn't right and I don't like what I did to fix it so I am hoping you guys can set me straight. I didn't have a problem with the front disc alignment before I had the tires replaced, I noticed the disc on the right side (right when sitting on the bike) wasn't centered but all seemed OK. Got new tires and as soon as I rode away I knew something wasn't right. Took it back and they tinkered with it but it still wasn't right. I ended up putting a couple of spacers (thick washers) between the right fork and the bearing dust cover. That got the spacing right but now there is presure on the dust cover. I have only been able to find one picture on the site that gives me an idea of how it should be. it was on an 80' model special, mine is a 79' and the dust cover looks completely different. At first I thought mine had been installed backward because the neck on the cover went in toward the bearing rather than out toward the fork. It didn't seem to fit when I turned it around and it didn't stay in place either way without something holding it in.
Does anyone have an SF that has a picture of both sides they could send me? Any advice would be welcome.

Thanks

[CatatonicBug]

Try this schematic. Bikebandit has them all listed, but I prefer the benefiscal.co.uk, as they include actual photos for most of the items. You have to register there (free) though.

[trbig]

Loosen the axle pinch bolt on your right fork. Use a pry-bar of some sort to pull out your fork until the disc is centered in the caliper slot... tighten the pinch bolt.


Tod

P.S. Take those spacers back out.

[bikerphil]

Ok, the left side speedo hub must be aligned. The tabs on the inside of the hub must mate with the tabs on the wheel, and also the outer slot must mate with the tab on the fork leg.



On the right, it is normal for there to be a space in between the fork and the spacer hub. The shoulder on the axle draws against the hub and pulls the wheel tight when the nut is tightened.



Proper tightening sequence is

1. Tighten the axle to spec, 70ft/lb. IIRC. You might have to hold the right side with a Phillips screwdriver thru the hole.
2. Center the right disk in the caliper bracket that is part of the fork. It's ok if it's not perfectly centered, just don't want it rubbing.
3. Tighten the right pinch bolt.
4. Tighten the fender bolts.
5. Install the calipers and speedo cable.

HTH

[psycoreefer]

Is it possible that they didn't follow the proper installation procedure? It's kinda funky because your supposed to install the axle and then pull the right fork leg in or out to allign the disks with the calipers...

From the manual....

6. On special models. tighten the axle nut to 76
ft.-lb. (103 N.m) and install a new cotter pin. Move
the front forks up and down several times. Move the
right-hand fork sideways until the left-hand disc is
centered within the caliper assembly figure 13).
Tighten the axle pinch bolt to 14.5 ft.-lb. (20 N.m).

[cywelchjr]

Is it possible that they didn't follow the proper installation procedure? It's kinda funky because your supposed to install the axle and then pull the right fork leg in or out to allign the disks with the calipers...

From the manual....

I don't know about the specials, but on my standard the last couple of times I worked on it, I had to tighten the left side pinch bolts first to pull the fork lower into where it's supposed to be. Took a little jockeying to get it just right with the disk centered in the caliper, but once I got it right everything seems to work well. And I don't let nobody else touch those parts but me. I may get it wrong (hope not) but if I do it's my fault, not some other dummy.

[Mstaab]

I think I see part of my problem, well, the bikes problem anyway. On the right side my bearing dust cover is completely different. By the way, what keeps that cover in place? does it snap in ir what?

[bikerphil]

There is an oil seal behind it. The dust collar fits over the oil seal loosely. The axle holds it in. My dust seal in the photo looks different because I painted it black. They are usually metallic color.

[crazy steve]

That adjustment procedure goes against everything I know about setting up forks....

One of the main issues with telescoping forks is the importance of both tubes being as close as possible to being exactly parallel to each other to prevent binding and insure smooth operation. So purposely moving one side out of alignment is not a good thing. I can't believe Yamaha did this...

'78E original owner

[bikerphil]

I like this fork alignment procedure much better...

FORK ALIGNMENT

You need
a center stand or engine jack to do this. You must be able to keep your front
wheel in the air with the bike immobile.

Put the bike on its center stand. Do whatever is necessary to get the front
wheel in the air ½" is fine
Remove the fork caps so that your springs are loose and your front end moves
up and down freely
Loosen the front axle, the fender bolts, and all the triple clamp bolts. If
you have a fork brace, loosen that too
Lift the front wheel, sliding it up the fork tubes until you hit the
bottoming stops inside the forks. Use a tie-down to hold the wheel up in this
position, with the forks bottomed out.
Now, with the forks bottomed out, the fork sliders are inside the fork
lowers as much as they ever will be, and the forks are lined up as perfectly as
they can be. Now is the time to tighten everything, the triple clamp bolts
first, then the axle, then the fender bolts. If you have a fork brace, tighten
that last
Release the front wheel so that the forks extend fully, topping out. Replace
the fork caps.
That's it, that's as good a front end alignment as you can get

[jmyers40]

I like this fork alignment procedure much better...

FORK ALIGNMENT

You need
a center stand or engine jack to do this. You must be able to keep your front
wheel in the air with the bike immobile.

Put the bike on its center stand. Do whatever is necessary to get the front
wheel in the air ½" is fine
Remove the fork caps so that your springs are loose and your front end moves
up and down freely
Loosen the front axle, the fender bolts, and all the triple clamp bolts. If
you have a fork brace, loosen that too
Lift the front wheel, sliding it up the fork tubes until you hit the
bottoming stops inside the forks. Use a tie-down to hold the wheel up in this
position, with the forks bottomed out.
Now, with the forks bottomed out, the fork sliders are inside the fork
lowers as much as they ever will be, and the forks are lined up as perfectly as
they can be. Now is the time to tighten everything, the triple clamp bolts
first, then the axle, then the fender bolts. If you have a fork brace, tighten
that last
Release the front wheel so that the forks extend fully, topping out. Replace
the fork caps.
That's it, that's as good a front end alignment as you can get

I'm going to have to ty this...

Makes very good sense having the forks completely compressed. I had issues when I replaced my front wheel bearings and brake pads for the first time last year. Clamping down one side and prying on the other to "center" it didn't make much sense to me either, but it's what the book said to do.

[DGXSER]

I could be wrong, but Phil's last procedure there seems to be for a standard.

On the Specials, there is no getting around the fact you will need to pull or push the right side fork to center the disc in the center of the disc slot in the fork. Compressed or not, you will still need to do so.

[cywelchjr]

No, you need to do the same on the standards too. One side locks in and the caliper is always centered on it, but the other just has the pinch bolt system and has to be moved back and forth to the right place. Can take a bit of doing, but once it's there it seems to stay pretty good. It's part of the reason nobody else touches mine. I might let one of the members here, but they understand the bike (well, maybe I speak to soon.) <gd&r>

[WMarshy]

I agree with cywelchjr. I took my front rim off to have a new tire put on and when I reassembled it I only have to move the left (when sitting on the bike) fork at the most 0.075" in so the inside break pad had clearnace. The right side lines right up because the break caliper stays on and nothing should move on that side... Wasnt that difficult for me, and I had no problems with wobble or handling. I suggest taking out that washer you put in there and installing the rim per manual.

[crazy steve]

No, you need to do the same on the standards too.

Nope, not true. The standards have floating calipers (unlike the weird 'pivoting' ones on the special) and will slide to fit. Phils' procedure is the one to use on any bike that has 'conventional' calipers.

'78E original owner