XS11 Newbee

[Bdriver]

Adjusting carbs

You'll have to excuse my ignorance, but I've never had these types of carbs apart, in fact I've haven't even had the tank off yet. When you say 'plugs', where specifically on the carb are you refering to? The carb blow-up in my Clymer manual doesn't show any plugs, It shows a 'pilot screw' with a plastic cap on it positioned on top of the intake throat just ahead of the diaphram cover. Is this the mixture screw your refering to? Do they use this screw when they synchronize the carbs?

[XS1100 Newbie]

That is the air/fuel mixture screws. The synch screws are in between the carbs on the linkage. Let me know when you have time if you want, and i'll pop over and help with the limited knowledge i have. I have had the carbs off, and cleaned them, done my XJ650 as well.Still learning on these things.
Bob

[Bdriver]

Carbs

Thanks for the offer Bob. I might take you up on that. Not planning to take the carbs apart soon, but probably before my trip in June.
On a different topic, I read where some XS11 owners are swaping their stock XS11 differencial for the 750 diff. What is the purpose of this. I assume the gearing is different, but is it higher or lower. Ride safe.

[XS1100 Newbie]

It is a higher geard differential. I thought it was the 850 though. This improves hiway running, but i don't know if it really saves any furl. Might ask 3phase (AKA Scott) about it. I believe he runs one. I also don't know how much it drops your rpms, or how much it robs from the bottom end.

[DGXSER]

I have run the 750 FD on Thunderstruck for almost a year. The 750 or 850 final drive (same gearing in both, both fit up the same.) will change the gear ratio from 3.3:1 to 2.9:1. At highway speeds in 5th gear it will drop almost 1000 RPM. I also swapped it out on a fellow members 80 XS11 Special. He had riden with the stock FD for almost 30 years, we made the swap in fall of last year and he says he will never go back.

IMO, you lose basically no lower end torque. You do use 4th gear a little more at 35-45 mph than before the swap, but otherwise you will not notice it. As to fuel I do not think you save any real fuel, but you will gain some top end. But again, these bikes have so much power and top end already you will be hard pressed to experience any of the gain. However, once you ride down the highway at 65-75 mph with the 750/850 FD in place, you will never want to do it with the stock FD again. The RPM drop is so noticable and makes the bike so much nicer to ride at that speed.

[Bdriver]

Rear diff

In the past I've steered away from altering the engine or drivetrain from stock on any bikes I've owned. Usually any tweeks away from what the factory engineers built it for, tipically end in more negative results then positive. This, however, seems like an upgrade I would want to concider!
Lower engine rpm at cruising speeds would mean longer engine life.
Question; How available are these 750/850 rear diffs? Am I looking for a complete parts bike, or just the rear end from a motorcycle junk yard? What are the cost of these diffs? Is the swap and easy bolt-off/bolt-on job, or are there special tools, parts(shims?), required? Thanks. Ride safe.

[bikerphil]

Read all about it.....

http://www.xs11.com/xs11-info/tech-t...-6th-gear.html

Check eBay for 750/850 final drives.

[Bdriver]

rear diff

Great info. Thanks bikerphil.

[Bdriver]

For DGXSER and/or bikerphil

I have the opportunity to pick up a 1981 XV750 frame with engine, trans, and FINAL DRIVE. Is this the proper year for FD swap for my 1980 XS1100G? If so, what should I look for before handing over any money. Is there any way I can inspect the FD for damages, internal or otherwise? Thanks for all your help.

[Schming]

Xv750...

I have the opportunity to pick up a 1981 XV750 frame with engine, trans, and FINAL DRIVE. Is this the proper year for FD swap for my 1980 XS1100G? If so, what should I look for before handing over any money. Is there any way I can inspect the FD for damages, internal or otherwise? Thanks for all your help.

...I believe the XV is the Virago You want the XS 750 or 850 final drive from any year bike, the lower milage the better but these are pretty good diffs so YMMV. Also the # 1J7YO is the correct diff. That # is located on the splined side that the rear wheel fits into.HTH

[DGXSER]

Yep I agree with Schming, The virago XV750 is not a direct swap out that I am aware of. The XS750 or 850 is.

Whne looking for an XS750/850 I like to stick to the "type II" as it is less complicated for the swap and you won't accidentally pull the pinion out and need to reset it. the "type II" have a phillips head screw in the face plate where the FD attaches to the swingarm. It was on all of the XS850 models and I believe it was only on the 79 XS750 models. BTW, a FD from a Standard is no different from the FD for a Special or Midnight Special except for paint color. I persoanlly like my FD black.

[Bdriver]

FD info

Thanks for the tip guys. Your right, its a stripper frame-engine-rear diff off a Virago. I'll stay away from it. When the time comes I'll try for a 'Type II XS850 #1J7YO for ease of instl. just as you recommended.
Other questions; While cruising the internet looking at other XS1100's, I see that some of the owners paint their engine/trans flat black! Does this adversly effect the cooling of the engine? It sure looks nice.
Also, has anyone tried running a synthetic oil in their XS? How would this effect the clutch pack? Slippage? Better cooling or lubrication?
Is there a after-market engine oil cooler that you could recommend? I plan on keeping this a long time so anything that extends the engine life I will try.
Do you think this engine even needs a cooler? Thanks. Ride safe.

[draketrumpet]

Also, has anyone tried running a synthetic oil in their XS? How would this effect the clutch pack? Slippage? Better cooling or lubrication?

Fair warning: You potentially just opened


That being said. I have synthetic mobile1 15w50 in my 1978 E and have not had any slippage. It's a little rough starting on really cold mornings, but I've always been able to start it. Maybe a little more top end noise on an already noisy top.

[3Phase]

No, it's not the right final drive. The XV750 is a Virago and it doesn't have a shock absorber mount on the final drive housing like the XS1100. You want the final drive from a '77-'79 XS750 or '80-'81 XS850.

Here's one post from a thread that lists some of the final drives and their part numbers that members have checked for compatibility. Look at the NOTES field for final drives with the letter A after them. Note A means it has a final drive shock mount. That's what you want unless you plan to change or modify the swingarm.

Yamaha Final (shaft) Drives


You can do a quick check on a final drive the same way you would almost any differential or trans-axle:

Check the vent on the top of the housing to make sure it's not missing, broken or plugged.

Turn the input shaft to see if it feels rough or notchy; too tight, too loose or just right. Run, do not walk, away if it's not just right.

Look for oil leaks in the housing, around the input coupler and the output coupler. New seals can be found so a leak isn't necessarily a catastrophe but buying and installing new seals might cost as much or more than just buying another final drive that doesn't leak.


Regards,

Scott

[DGXSER]

Other questions; While cruising the internet looking at other XS1100's, I see that some of the owners paint their engine/trans flat black! Does this adversly effect the cooling of the engine? It sure looks nice.

Look around and you will find plenty of members here that paint their engines with no adverse effects.

Also, has anyone tried running a synthetic oil in their XS? How would this effect the clutch pack? Slippage? Better cooling or lubrication?

There are ALOT of opinions on this subject, do a search for oil and you will find so much it becomes impossible to sort through. Some have had good luck running synthetic in the engine, most claim it makes the clutch slip. If you want to try it, try it, see what happens. If the clutch slips, change out to regular old oil. Most everyone will recommend to use synthetic for the middle and final drive though.

Is there a after-market engine oil cooler that you could recommend?

Yamaha made them for the bike, some came stock with it I think. I happen to have one I got in a box-o-parts deal I would sell. Even has the adaptor for the oil filter to hook the lines to. But I do not see the need for one which is why my bikes do not have it installed.

I plan on keeping this a long time so anything that extends the engine life I will try.Do you think this engine even needs a cooler?

See above, not unless you ride in some VERY hot temperatures with alot of traffic so you end up sitting still for very long periods of time.