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  • #16
    I just found our second honeymoon...thanks!
    1978 Yamaha XS 1100E "Monster" 2010-2012
    2004 RCM-50GL 2008-2010, Don't ask, don't tell (don't really know)

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    • #17
      Returned from run

      Hi Guys. Well the clouds cleared enough for me to get in my first good ride on my new (new to ME) toy. Went for a 90 minute ride down the Washington side of the Columbia gorge. WOW, what a machine. The torque curve on this thing is as broad as Kansas! Had to be carefull, the curves come at you faster then you relize. I was grinning ear to ear the whole time.
      Just to clarify, I live in Vancouver Washington, just accross the river from Portland Oregon. If there are any other XS11 owners close by, feel free to drop me an e-mail and we can go for some rides. Is there any tours set up for the Northwest this summer?
      Thanks for the info of what to look for on the XS. I'm a retired mechanic who takes care of his own bikes, so I knew some of the basic areas to look for.
      The owner said he just replaced the rear tire, battery, had the valves adjusted and the carbs rebuilt and synced. He also had it tuned and the front and rear brake fluids flushed. Also had the fork seals replaced. He showed me the reciepts from the shop and the parts house. I could see the new VC gasket and battery. Visually, it looks like new. There is one superficial scratch on the right side on the tank. Didn't dent the metal, just scratched the paint.
      Is there any contacts that you know of that might have some touch-up paint? The Yamaha dealership didn't have it. Its the two tone silver color.
      On my privious post, when I said 'two week cruise', I meant ON the motorcycle. One of my joys is to throw my tent, sleeping bag, and some food on my bike and just take off. I'll be posting some pictures of my new toy on the site some time soon. Ride safe everyone.
      Paul Mark
      pmark2008(at)gmail.com **Editted for Spam Prevention**

      Comment


      • #18
        Originally posted by Bdriver View Post
        I was grinning ear to ear the whole time.
        Welcome to the forum, Paul! The ear-to-ear grin is stock on most XS11s.

        ... I live in Vancouver Washington ... any other XS11 owners close by ....
        Well, I have friends up there in Vancouver and Oregon. There was someone with a Midnight Special that I saw last year riding west on NE 28th Street to the NE 112th Avenue/NE Burton Road intersection. I have no idea who it was but keep your eyes peeled.

        Is there any tours set up for the Northwest this summer?
        See:-
        Rally in Northwest????

        There is one superficial scratch on the right side on the tank. Didn't dent the metal, just scratched the paint.
        Is there any contacts that you know of that might have some touch-up paint?
        Try ScratchFix 2in1 from your friendly neighborhood auto supply store. Like the name says, it's good for fixing small nicks and scratches. Try some of the paint on a separate piece and allow it to dry, then compare the color with your tank before you actually paint the tank.

        This is pretty close to the Dark Gray:-


        Here is the gray primer/filler and the Silver:-


        There is a clear coat touch up bottle but they're always out of it when I go to the store so I just use Johnson paste wax over the paint and don't spill the gasoline when filling the tank.


        Regards,

        Scott
        -- Scott
        _____

        2004 ST1300A: No name... yet
        1982 XJ1100J: "Baby" SS Brakes, '850 FD, ACCT
        1980 XS1100G: "Columbo" SS Brakes, '850 FD, ACCT
        1979 XS1100SF: "Bush" W.I.P.
        1979 XS1100F: parts
        2018 Heritage Softail Classic 117 FLHCS SE: "Nanuk" It's DEAD, it's not just resting. It is an EX cycle.

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        • #19
          I am in Battle Ground, and yes there will be a get together this summer. No positive date or time yet, or the map of where we will go.
          Bob
          1980 XS1100LG Midnight
          1991 Honda CBR1000F Hurricane


          "The hand is almost valueless at one end of the arm if there be not a brain at the other"

          Here's to a long life and a happy one.
          A quick death and an easy one.
          A pretty girl and an honest one.
          A cold beer and another one!

          Comment


          • #20
            Thank You

            Thanks for all the good tips and info guys. I have a new list of projects for my XS. My bike didn't come with an owners manual, so this might seem like a dumb question but.. ON the fuel petcock the labeling say 'ON' for fuel on,
            'RES' for reserve and then it say 'PRI'. What does 'PRI' mean? Could it stand for 'Primed, Ready, but Indecent', or 'Primitive Ravenous Inhibitions', or
            'Proceed with Reverence and Intelect', or 'Psychotic, Repulsive, and Insane'?
            or 'Private Reserve......' Anybody?????

            Ride safe

            Comment


            • #21
              Prime. Bypasses the vacuum circuit and feeds fuel directly to the carbs. Useful after carb removal, or after running out, to fill the bowls before trying to start.

              Welcome aboard.
              1980 SG. (Sold - waiting on replacement)
              2000 XJR1300. The Real modern XS11. Others are just pretenders.

              Woman (well, my wife anyway) are always on Transmit and never Receive.

              "A man should look for what is, and not for what he thinks should be" Albert Einstien.

              Comment


              • #22
                In other words, when it's working properly "on" means off unless the bike is running, where 'Pri' is always on.
                1978 Yamaha XS 1100E "Monster" 2010-2012
                2004 RCM-50GL 2008-2010, Don't ask, don't tell (don't really know)

                Comment


                • #23
                  another question

                  Thanks for the explainations, it makes sense. I'm assuming there is a rubber diaphram that the engine vacuum operates that shuts the valve off or on. What happens when that diaphram, thru normal wear or aging, goes bad? Does it leave the valve in an 'off' or 'on' position? How often do these vacuum valves break? Do they have any overhaul kits for these vacuum valves? If they don't, can you just reroute the fuel lines to by-pass this valve, and make your fuel petcocks manually operated only? Thanks for your time.

                  Comment


                  • #24
                    Personally I've never had a problem and never really studied them that hard so we're both going to have to learn from someone elses answers on this.

                    An expoded view can be found here...

                    http://www.benefiscal.co.uk/imagine....K%20-%20PIPING

                    More info here...

                    http://www.benefiscal.co.uk/ps.php

                    There are rebuild kits here..

                    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FUEL-...Q5fAccessories

                    ...and you can use the prime position as ON if you have vacuum troubles but you have to remember to turn the tap OFF when stopped. The neddle valves arent foolproof and do leak from time to time. An air box and/or a sump full of fuel are the clues for that.

                    Do a search thru the thread for the "octopus" and you'll get some good info on "fuel taps" or "petcocks", depending on where you live. Personally I've never been that comfortable with "petcocks". Just doesnt sound right to me.
                    1980 SG. (Sold - waiting on replacement)
                    2000 XJR1300. The Real modern XS11. Others are just pretenders.

                    Woman (well, my wife anyway) are always on Transmit and never Receive.

                    "A man should look for what is, and not for what he thinks should be" Albert Einstien.

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      Originally posted by Bdriver View Post
                      Thanks for the explainations, it makes sense. I'm assuming there is a rubber diaphram that the engine vacuum operates that shuts the valve off or on. What happens when that diaphram, thru normal wear or aging, goes bad? Does it leave the valve in an 'off' or 'on' position? How often do these vacuum valves break? Do they have any overhaul kits for these vacuum valves? If they don't, can you just reroute the fuel lines to by-pass this valve, and make your fuel petcocks manually operated only? Thanks for your time.
                      Here's a simple mod to give your Standard petcocks an off position....

                      http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread...hlight=petcock
                      2H7 (79) owned since '89
                      3H3 owned since '06

                      "If it ain't broke, modify it"

                      Comment


                      • #26
                        MORE fuel questions!

                        For reference, I have updated my profile. I own a 1980 XS1100G model, 8300mls. All stock running gear except for a K&N air filter. The following questions have to do with the A/F (air/fuel) mixture.
                        Will running the less restrictive (I assume) K&N air filter lean out the fuel mixture to the engine?
                        All of my previously owned 4 cyl air cooled (500, 650, 750, 900 Hondas) were all very cold blooded when starting cold. My XS takes @ 10 minutes to get fully warmed up, useing choke settings 2 then 1 for starting. This normal for a XS1100?
                        Reason for asking is that my stock header pipes are discolored to a blue tint. Cyls #2 and #3 more bluer than #1 and #4. I know this can be a sympton of a lean running (ie HOT) engine. Something I want to avoid on an air cooled engine. Is this discoloration on the header pipes normal for this model XS?
                        I might be taking my XS down to Arizona or Utah in June when it could get very hot, so I don't want to risk doing any damage (read EXPENSIVE) to my engine. I've pulled #4 spark plug (NGK BP6ES) and the condition looks good, as is the coloration. I was thinking of removing the carburetor diaphragm covers to see where the needle clip is set. The Clymer manual says it should be set on the middle (#3) of the 5 settings. If I drop the C-clip down to the #4 notch for a richer mixture, will I risk fouling the plugs with a to-rich mixture? My concern is not fuel mileage (I have the 5.6gal tank), its running my engine to hot and causing possible internal damage. Has anyone ever ran a fuel mixture test using a CO exhaust analizer? This would be the only REAL way of knowing what mixture your engine is burning. I realize not everyone has one of these machines, so it would have to be done in a shop.
                        Thanks again for everyones advise. Ride safe.

                        Comment


                        • #27
                          Yes, the pods will lean your mixture out some. If you raise the needle 1 position, yes it will be richer in the transition from the pilot to main jet (about 4K RPM). Every time I've tried fooling with the needle clip, I've always ended going back to the center position. If your bike is cold blooded, the float level might have to be raised a MM or two. BTW, if you're running the late 80-81 carbs, there is no needle adjustment, only on the 78-79's.
                          2H7 (79) owned since '89
                          3H3 owned since '06

                          "If it ain't broke, modify it"

                          Comment


                          • #28
                            Thanks for the info. When you adjust the floats, is it mandatory that you always repl the float bowl gaskets, or can you reuse the old one.
                            Also, I notice some owners drill holes in the stock air filter housing. If I'm interpreting this correctly. What are the advantages/disadvantages of this modification? Does this increase any engine intake noise when under full throttle?

                            Comment


                            • #29
                              Originally posted by Bdriver View Post
                              Thanks for the info. When you adjust the floats, is it mandatory that you always repl the float bowl gaskets, or can you reuse the old one.
                              Also, I notice some owners drill holes in the stock air filter housing. If I'm interpreting this correctly. What are the advantages/disadvantages of this modification? Does this increase any engine intake noise when under full throttle?
                              No, you can re-use the bowl gaskets, they'll come apart many, many times, DAMHIK. The air box can be drilled, but only in the center area of the filter. It will give you more air flow, but not as much as changing to pods. No disadvantage that I can see. Maybe a slight increase in air intake noise, again not as much as pods.

                              Drilled air box....

                              Last edited by bikerphil; 04-02-2010, 08:25 AM.
                              2H7 (79) owned since '89
                              3H3 owned since '06

                              "If it ain't broke, modify it"

                              Comment


                              • #30
                                I have a question. I don't see where you have asked about adjusting the fuel/air mix on the carbs. Are the plugs removed so you can adjust them?
                                1980 XS1100LG Midnight
                                1991 Honda CBR1000F Hurricane


                                "The hand is almost valueless at one end of the arm if there be not a brain at the other"

                                Here's to a long life and a happy one.
                                A quick death and an easy one.
                                A pretty girl and an honest one.
                                A cold beer and another one!

                                Comment

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