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  • Brakes

    This is probably an obvious question but I'll ask anyway since I'm not much of a mechanic. I assume the master cylinder slide (for lack of the correct term) should return almost immediately when the hand lever is let go? Bike has been sitting for 6 years and I'm guessing like the rest of the braking system the master cylinder needs to be rebuilt. My second part of this question, rather than buy a kit to rebuild a 32 year old master cylinder perhaps I should just go out and buy a new master to replace the old one? I have heard rebuilding is not always that successful.
    1978 XS1100
    1979 Honda Goldwing

  • #2
    my master did the same thing after sitting for 10 years a little wd-40 on the shaft fixed it .....2 years ago
    careful what you wish for.........you might get it

    Comment


    • #3
      Take it apart and clean the O-ring and see. Wouldn't hurt to take the piston out of the caliper and clean it and that O-ring up also. Sometimes that rubber can get a gummy surface and just needs to be cleaned. Replace all that old fluid, clean the "Spooge" hole, and try it before possibly wasting your money on new stuff.

      Also, I wouldn't use ANYTHING on brake parts to clean them except new brake fuid or brake cleaner.


      Tod
      Try your hardest to be the kind of person your dog thinks you are.

      You can live to be 100, as long as you give up everything that would make you want to live to be 100!

      Current bikes:
      '06 Suzuki DR650
      *'82 XJ1100 with the 1179 kit. "Mad Maxim"
      '82 XJ1100 Completely stock fixer-upper
      '82 XJ1100 Bagger fixer-upper
      '82 XJ1100 Motor/frame and lots of boxes of parts
      '82 XJ1100 Parts bike
      '81 XS1100 Special
      '81 YZ250
      '80 XS850 Special
      '80 XR100
      *Crashed/Totalled, still own

      Comment


      • #4
        TRBIG is right. The cleaning, and changing of the fluid is the first thing you should do. It also allows you to see what shape the bore is in.
        1980 XS1100LG Midnight
        1991 Honda CBR1000F Hurricane


        "The hand is almost valueless at one end of the arm if there be not a brain at the other"

        Here's to a long life and a happy one.
        A quick death and an easy one.
        A pretty girl and an honest one.
        A cold beer and another one!

        Comment


        • #5
          Just remember that there are 3 essential parts to the brake system: The master cylinder, the hose, and the caliper(s). ALL of these parts need to be flushed and cleaned regularly. If it's been decades since the last time it was done (or you don't know when it was last done), do yourself a favor and take the entire system apart, down to the individual components, and clean them REALLY WELL. The parts that may need to be replaced are the rubber ones (piston seals in the master cylinder and the caliper).

          Remember when you take the piston out of the caliper to remove the rubber seal, and clean UNDER the rubber o-ring. That groove collects junk and can prevent the piston from moving properly. A dental pick or other small pointy metal object works well for that job.

          As for your original question, yes, the piston should rebound IMMEDIATELY after releasing the brake lever/pedal. This allows you to constantly adjust the pressure that you apply to the brakes.
          1980 XS850SG - Sold
          1981 XS1100LH Midnight Special (Sold) - purchased 9/29/08
          Fully Vetterized and Dynojet Kit added, Heated Grips, Truck-Lite LED headlight, Accel Coils, Irridium plugs, TKAT Fork Brace, XS850LH Final Drive & Black SS Brake lines from Chacal.
          Here's my web page devoted to my bike! XS/XJ User's Manuals there, and the XJ1100 Service Manual and both XS1100 Service manuals (free download!).

          Whether you think you can, or you think you cannot - You're right.
          -H. Ford

          Comment


          • #6
            Did take the caliper apart as you mentioned cleaned it in denatured alcohol and replaced the o-ring and dust cover. piston had some pitting, but hopefully minor enough that it won't affect performance too much. I know what you mean on the rubber sticking, the self adjusting part of the caliper was stuck so cleaned that, still doesn't seem to slide all that well.
            Must be interesting getting that snap ring out? So far haven't spotted the two little holes to get a tool on it.
            1978 XS1100
            1979 Honda Goldwing

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by jeffro1954 View Post
              Must be interesting getting that snap ring out? So far haven't spotted the two little holes to get a tool on it.
              They SHOULD be there... Unless the snap ring is broken. Once you get the MC apart, concentrate on the Spooge hole. Use a small piece of wire to ream out any gunk that might be stuck in there. A search for Spooge hole will give you plenty of results for details on where it is if you have difficulty finding it.
              1980 XS850SG - Sold
              1981 XS1100LH Midnight Special (Sold) - purchased 9/29/08
              Fully Vetterized and Dynojet Kit added, Heated Grips, Truck-Lite LED headlight, Accel Coils, Irridium plugs, TKAT Fork Brace, XS850LH Final Drive & Black SS Brake lines from Chacal.
              Here's my web page devoted to my bike! XS/XJ User's Manuals there, and the XJ1100 Service Manual and both XS1100 Service manuals (free download!).

              Whether you think you can, or you think you cannot - You're right.
              -H. Ford

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by jeffro1954 View Post
                Did take the caliper apart as you mentioned cleaned it in denatured alcohol and replaced the o-ring and dust cover. piston had some pitting, but hopefully minor enough that it won't affect performance too much. I know what you mean on the rubber sticking, the self adjusting part of the caliper was stuck so cleaned that, still doesn't seem to slide all that well.
                Must be interesting getting that snap ring out? So far haven't spotted the two little holes to get a tool on it.
                Hi Jeffro,
                um, it's the master cylinder, the lever-thing on the handlebar?
                Or the caliper, there's two of them, they each grip one of the brake disks?
                To get at the master cylinder's innards you need a long reach snap ring tool.
                MikesXS sells one for $10
                http://www.mikesxs.net/products-7.html?category_id=7.1
                Scroll down to the bottom of the page to see it, item #35-0009.
                Fred Hill, S'toon
                XS11SG with Spirit of America sidecar
                "The Flying Pumpkin"

                Comment


                • #9
                  Here's how I clean small cylinders. Take em apart, wrap "fine grade" steel wool around a drill bit, soak it in brake fluid and spin it until the gunk is gone. Don't try to actually hone with it. But it will get the cylinder clean.
                  "The Hooligan" XJ1100, Virago Gauge Pods, Screaming Eagle Mufflers, K&N Filter, hand made rear fender, side covers, and solo seat, round bar conversion, small headlight, tail light, and cat eye turn signals, chip fuses, rewired the right way.

                  Pics: http://s1236.photobucket.com/user/ya...?sort=6&page=1

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by fredintoon View Post
                    Hi Jeffro,
                    um, it's the master cylinder, the lever-thing on the handlebar?
                    Or the caliper, there's two of them, they each grip one of the brake disks?
                    To get at the master cylinder's innards you need a long reach snap ring tool.
                    MikesXS sells one for $10
                    http://www.mikesxs.net/products-7.html?category_id=7.1
                    Scroll down to the bottom of the page to see it, item #35-0009.
                    You don't need a long reach set of snap ring pliers, it might be easier though. I just did my master last night, all you have to do is hold the cylinder in with one hand while you grab the snap ring with the pliers in the other hand. Worked just fine for me....

                    Also cleaning that groove behind the caliper seals is real easy if you use a dremel with a baby brass wire brush on it, the brass is hard enough to blow all the crud out and get it nice and clean but not hard enough to hurt the metal of the piston.
                    1979 xs1100 Special -
                    Stock air box/K&N Filter, MAC 4-2 exhaust, Bad-Boy Air horn, TC fuse box, Windshield, Soft bags, Vetter Fairing, Blinkers->Run/Turn/Brake Lights, Headlight Modulator, hard wire GPS power

                    Short Stack - 1981 xs1100 Standard - lowered for SWMBO.

                    Originally posted by fredintoon
                    Goes like a train, corners like a cow, shifts like a Russian tractor, drinks like a fish, you are gonna love it.
                    My Bike:
                    [link is broken]

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      It's been interesting trying to get this bike back into shape, a 1978 XS1100. Sat in a a guys barn for 6 years. He said if I could start it, he'll take $100. If I can't start it don't bring it back. The carbs were so varnished up, I found another set. Started up almost right away, although still needs synching etc., compression is excellent. Changing over Yamaha fairing back to regular headlight etc. By the time I get done with replacing and rebuilding I'll have enough into it I might have found one that already runs!! But I wouldn't trade the fun of working on it. This website has proven invaluable for a novice. Appreciate eveyone's helpful comments. You all rock!
                      1978 XS1100
                      1979 Honda Goldwing

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by jeffro1954 View Post
                        It's been interesting trying to get this bike back into shape, a 1978 XS1100. Sat in a a guys barn for 6 years. He said if I could start it, he'll take $100. If I can't start it don't bring it back. The carbs were so varnished up, I found another set. Started up almost right away, although still needs synching etc., compression is excellent. Changing over Yamaha fairing back to regular headlight etc. By the time I get done with replacing and rebuilding I'll have enough into it I might have found one that already runs!! But I wouldn't trade the fun of working on it. This website has proven invaluable for a novice. Appreciate eveyone's helpful comments. You all rock!
                        You're not alone. There's lots of us monkeys in here swinging from the trees working on our PO neglected bikes. I thought mine was gonna work out better last year until I rode it a few thousand miles. Now things have loosened up and I'm starting to see what kind of shape it's really in. Just clean and lube the heck out of everything you can find. It will help in the long run.

                        Kind of makes me feel better to see new people getting on here after finding bikes like mine. I feel further along than I was. Keeps me motivated.
                        "The Hooligan" XJ1100, Virago Gauge Pods, Screaming Eagle Mufflers, K&N Filter, hand made rear fender, side covers, and solo seat, round bar conversion, small headlight, tail light, and cat eye turn signals, chip fuses, rewired the right way.

                        Pics: http://s1236.photobucket.com/user/ya...?sort=6&page=1

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by jeffro1954 View Post
                          ...I assume the master cylinder slide (for lack of the correct term) should return almost immediately when the hand lever is let go? Bike has been sitting for 6 years and I'm guessing like the rest of the braking system the master cylinder needs to be rebuilt. My second part of this question, rather than buy a kit to rebuild a 32 year old master cylinder perhaps I should just go out and buy a new master to replace the old one? I have heard rebuilding is not always that successful.
                          If the master piston still moves (even slowly), you can very probably save the cylinder, maybe even without a 'kit'. You can buy a new one, but it's not a duplicate of original so there can be a bit of 'adapting' involved.

                          I just got done rebuilding my brakes (have yet to install them). Everything was pretty much seized up, but the only parts I needed to replace were the caliper pistons as they were rustier than I liked. As far as the master cylinders (and if the front is bad, the rear is probably worse), as everybody says take them apart and thoroughly clean them. Yes, getting the front one apart is a large PITA, but after you get that snap-ring out the rest is fairly easy. The rebuild kits replace all the internal parts in the cylinders, so if the pistons and return springs are really corroded/rusty, I'd recommend you buy a kit. Keep in mind that brake fluid attracts and holds water, so any rust you find inside on any part must be completely cleaned off or it will be back.

                          Now, after you get everything apart and cleaned up (don't forget the 'spooge' hole on the front AND the rear has one too), see if the bare piston will slide easily into the bore. No? If there's no visible scratches, pits, or gouges, then hone the bore. Now, you won't find a hone small enough to fit, but a 6" length of 5/16" or 3/8" wood dowl with a slot cut in one end with a folded piece of 1000 grit sandpaper (or finer) will make a good 'flapper wheel' hone. Carefully and lightly hone the bore until the piston does just slide into the bore. Clean everything up and reassemble and it's fixed. The cylinder bodies, being aluminum, don't pit badly like a steel/iron one would.

                          A few last tips; on your caliper slides, get some silicon-based 'high temp' grease. The stuff I have (Atlas brand; unfortunately bought about 35 years ago at a Standard Station so you won't find this brand anymore) is safe for rubber and won't wash away. Just a dab will do ya and it will make a big difference. And clean the snap-ring groove on the front cylinder while you have it apart with a pick or a sharpened bit of wire, as that will make getting the ring back in easier.

                          '78E original owner
                          Last edited by crazy steve; 03-25-2010, 10:22 AM.
                          Fast, Cheap, Reliable... Pick any two

                          '78E original owner - resto project
                          '78E ???? owner - Modder project FJ forks, 4-piston calipers F/R, 160/80-16 rear tire
                          '82 XJ rebuild project
                          '80SG restified, red SOLD
                          '79F parts...
                          '81H more parts...

                          Other current bikes:
                          '93 XL1200 Anniversary Sportster 85RWHP
                          '86 XL883/1200 Chopper
                          '82 XL1000 w/1450cc Buell, Baker 6-speed, in-progress project
                          Cage: '13 Mustang GT/CS with a few 'custom' touches
                          Yep, can't leave nuthin' alone...

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Jeffro
                            You say you are removing the Yamaha fairing. What are you going to do with it, and is it in fair shape. Does it have the Yamaha name on it?
                            Bob
                            1980 XS1100LG Midnight
                            1991 Honda CBR1000F Hurricane


                            "The hand is almost valueless at one end of the arm if there be not a brain at the other"

                            Here's to a long life and a happy one.
                            A quick death and an easy one.
                            A pretty girl and an honest one.
                            A cold beer and another one!

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              It's in very average condition. lights worked. there are some cracks. Don't remember if the Yamaha is still on, but I believe they are. I can take some pics and send them to your email. Not quite decided if I would ever put it back on, right now I doubt it. It's in storage, will take a few days to get pictures to you.
                              1978 XS1100
                              1979 Honda Goldwing

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