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Where Do I Find Inexpensive Horsepower?

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  • Where Do I Find Inexpensive Horsepower?

    Hi All,
    Im looking to gain a little inexpensive horsepower on my butchered XS11, any leads?
    Some make 'em, most just make payments on 'em!
    1978 XS 1100E
    Vance & Hines Slip on Straight Shot Exhaust
    K & N Air filter
    Home built forward controls
    Vulcan Mustang seat
    A little chopped

    http://s812.photobucket.com/albums/zz42/Brad_099/

  • #2
    Really, to gain anything noticable, you're gonna have to spend a chunk of money. These machines were built as solid monsters, with little that can be adjusted in that area. Some have said that pod air filters add HP, and some have said they even lower it, but most agree it's nothing you'll notice either way.

    Really, the only thing that will change the HP much is a big bore kit. That's where the $ comes in.
    1980 XS850SG - Sold
    1981 XS1100LH Midnight Special (Sold) - purchased 9/29/08
    Fully Vetterized and Dynojet Kit added, Heated Grips, Truck-Lite LED headlight, Accel Coils, Irridium plugs, TKAT Fork Brace, XS850LH Final Drive & Black SS Brake lines from Chacal.
    Here's my web page devoted to my bike! XS/XJ User's Manuals there, and the XJ1100 Service Manual and both XS1100 Service manuals (free download!).

    Whether you think you can, or you think you cannot - You're right.
    -H. Ford

    Comment


    • #3
      Bang For the Buck

      A Dynojet Kit for the carbs makes a difference you will notice. About a hundred bucks.
      Rick
      I May Be Crazy, But I Have A Good Time.

      Northern Gypsy - 2010 Kawasaki Concours 14 ABS - Daily rider

      Comment


      • #4
        The cheapest HP you will find is with a 4-1 header and properly jetted carbs for that pipe. If the pipe is one of the performance types and jetted properly you can get up to 10% additional HP.
        Rob
        KEEP THE RUBBER SIDE DOWN

        1978 XS1100E Modified
        1978 XS500E
        1979 XS1100F Restored
        1980 XS1100 SG
        1981 Suzuki GS1100
        1983 Suzuki GS750S Katana
        1983 Honda CB900 Custom

        Comment


        • #5
          Unless you already know what your bike can really do, you might be surprised what well cleaned carbs and a proper sync/colortune can do for you. If you have only ridden older, smaller displacement bikes, you could hop on an XS with two dead cylinders and think it was okay. Before I got Tsunami, my biggest ride was my old '51 BMW R51/3, which probably put out about 25 hp on a good day. OTOH, if you are thoroughly familiar with what a finely-tuned XS can do, finding more inexpensive horsepower might be a challenge.
          Ken Talbot

          Comment


          • #6
            I've been told that newer hotter coils makes a noticeable difference.


            Tod
            Try your hardest to be the kind of person your dog thinks you are.

            You can live to be 100, as long as you give up everything that would make you want to live to be 100!

            Current bikes:
            '06 Suzuki DR650
            *'82 XJ1100 with the 1179 kit. "Mad Maxim"
            '82 XJ1100 Completely stock fixer-upper
            '82 XJ1100 Bagger fixer-upper
            '82 XJ1100 Motor/frame and lots of boxes of parts
            '82 XJ1100 Parts bike
            '81 XS1100 Special
            '81 YZ250
            '80 XS850 Special
            '80 XR100
            *Crashed/Totalled, still own

            Comment


            • #7
              Mega Cycle will weld up and regrind your cams to a hotter profile for about $400 I think. It looks like you have a 78 or 79 clicking on the liink in your post, so your compression ratio will actually go down if you go with a Wiseco bore kit. I have heard from a couple guys that the bore kits them selves don't add noticeable HP gains, so I think the money would be better spent elsewhere.

              Probably your cheapest gain will be a good jetting and A dynojet kit, but if you have the early carbs, there is not one available, but the needles are adjustable in those carbs, which is what the Dynojet kit does on the later carbs.

              My thinking is that the HP is still climbing and the bike just pulls harder and harder even at redline, so increasing the redline would be where you could really start seeing some gains, especially with a good 3 angle valve grind and some port work. Being able to raise the redline a couple grand would be great as well. As far as I can tell, valve float is the determining factor there, and valves don't float because the springs are too light, but mainly because of the waves that travel through the springs, so high performance engines use progressively wound springs. Maybe finding some more modern valve springs of the same diameter off a toyota or something might do the trick there. For a good read on that, look up "desmodromic valves" on Wikipedia.

              Also for the rough 1000 bucks it would take to get a bore kit done, you could probably find a turbo setup, which would definitely give you a bigger boost than anything naturally aspirated.
              Ich habe dich nicht gefragt.

              Comment


              • #8
                You could just buy a Harley Davidson motorcycle and.......................


                ......... oh wait............ that's expensive horsepower.

                sorry
                Paul
                1983 XJ1100 Maxim
                1979 XS1100 Standard
                1980 XS1100 Special

                I'm not a motorcycle mechanic but I play one on the internet.

                Comment


                • #9
                  $1000-$1500+............................ horsepower ain't cheap.

                  More than 1 hp per lb ain't enough for you?

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Other Side of the Coin?

                    Increasing horsepower is one way of increasing top speed and the acceleration needed to get to that top speed quicker. But there's another approach.

                    The overall acceleration is determined by the horsepower to weight ratio of the bike/rider combination.

                    Stripping "unnecessary" weight off the XS can be done but each essential component removed must necessarily be replaced by a lighter, therefore usually much more costlier item. Sourcing and then modifying these lighter/stronger components can be a daunting task and not really cost effective in a "pounds loss vs cost" analysis.

                    Downsizing (Rightsizing??) the weight of the rider seems to be the most cost effective means of achieving higher performance:

                    Cost Comparison

                    Jenny Craig:

                    According to the folks at J.C., average cost is approximately $65/week. However, there are different membership options which afford different benefits, and one can spend as much as $400 in the first month.

                    Nutrisystem:

                    $54.95 per week (includes meals and snacks). Save 15% by signing up for the Auto Ship plan.

                    The long term benefits and continued monitoring of the performance gains of rider weight reduction must require the use of the bathroom scale along with regular trips to the race track. Elapsed Times in the 1/4 mile should be used to verify performance gains and continued adherence to the chosen weight loss plan.

                    It's really just a matter of mathematics and which side of the equation you choose to work with.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by XSokieSPECIAL View Post
                      More than 1 hp per lb ain't enough for you?
                      Uhm, math??? Bike: around 600 lbs.
                      My Fat Butt: around 280 lbs.
                      Total: 880 lbs

                      Horsepower: MAYBE 90 hp on a good day. Oh, wait. I'm at 5200 ft, so deduct 12% or 79 hp on a good day up here.

                      Power/Weight = 79 hp / 880 lbs = around 0.080 hp/lb!!!!!

                      So, yes, 1 hp/lb would MORE than be enough! I'm just over an order of magnitude away from that lofty goal!

                      Just to be fair, I have to assume you actually meant hp/in^3, which should come in at 79hp/67 in^3, or right at 1.18 hp/in^3
                      -- Clint
                      1979 XS1100F - bought for $500 in 1989

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Larrym View Post
                        - - - - Downsizing (Rightsizing??) the weight of the rider seems to be the most cost effective means of achieving higher performance: - - -
                        Hi Larry,
                        body mass reduction works best when racing in the 50cc class as 40lbs less on a 100lb bike is far more effective than 40lbs less on a 600lb bike.
                        However, even with a heavy bike one cannot deny the math, eh?
                        So what's the least costly way to loose weight? As you say, Jenny Craig, Weightwatchers etc charge top dollar for membership.
                        Provided you have good medical coverage, here's a less costly way:-
                        Go mouth off in a rough bar.
                        Some Redneck will undoubtedly break your jaw.
                        You will spend the next few months with your jaw wired shut.
                        Weight loss is inevitable.
                        Fred Hill, S'toon
                        XS11SG with Spirit of America sidecar
                        "The Flying Pumpkin"

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          "Want to lose 10 pounds of unsightly fat?

                          Cut off your head"

                          read that on a bumper sticker in the 80's
                          Pat Kelly
                          <p-lkelly@sbcglobal.net>

                          1978 XS1100E (The Force)
                          1980 XS1100LG (The Dark Side)
                          2007 Dodge Ram 2500 quad-cab long-bed (Wifes ride)
                          1999 Suburban (The Ship)
                          1994 Dodge Spirit (Son #1)
                          1968 F100 (Valentine)

                          "No one is totally useless. They can always be used as a bad example"

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by Brad View Post
                            Hi All,
                            Im looking to gain a little inexpensive horsepower on my butchered XS11, any leads?
                            You can cheat and advance your timing a few degrees. Cost: nothing, maybe a piston or two.
                            2H7 (79) owned since '89
                            3H3 owned since '06

                            "If it ain't broke, modify it"

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              I've read where the older xs's were faster but i don't know why..........
                              DENNIS

                              1981 MNS..1980 CARBS , STOCK AIR BOX, FIVE 1/2" HOLES IN BACK OF MUFFLERS (SINCE COVERED UP WITH A BIG WASHER)

                              1983 HONDA 350R

                              1972 YAMAHA 250 MX

                              196? MONTESA 250 ENDURO STRIPPED DOWN

                              1967 BENEILI 125 ENDURO (NOWHERE NEAR BIG ENOUGH)

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