my kingdome for a carb

[gorgan8]

OK, so i bought an overly abused 78 XS1100, with my divorce it was cheep, it ran and i needed something to do in my spare time as well as I needed something to get away. when i got it , it had two fog lights for the headlight, it had no turn signals and it bogged when u tried to accelerate heavily and a tiny gas leak. i got it late in the year, so i got everything adjusted, calibrated and running OK. The gas leak was slight and never when it was running, just sitting. so i rebuilt the petcocks or tried rebuilding them (the k and L set i got didn't do much i think its for and 79 special) by that time it was end of the season, so i put it away. the last two days i was getting it ready for the road, i got gas put it in and in 2 mins the gallon i put in to get it going was emptied into the air box and on the ground.

Today, i went to adjust floats and look at the seats and needle valves. Much to my horror, the P.O. broke the float post off in number two ( second from the choke) and repaired it with J.B. weld. and had the needle valve in upside down in the first carb. all the valves are clean and new looking and i cleaned everything out, but the #2 post had weld broken and had bits in the bowl, and the float pin was glued in place with the remaining, need less to say i am up set, but the trouble is i now need to find a replacement carb or body, i have looked on line and no one sells them as a single, and with my divorce and recently losing my job, 400- 500 hundred is more than i can afford. With the current low paying job i have . So any tips n tricks to fix, or even if someone has a spare carb or carb body i can buy? any help will be appreciated. i can see using J.B.weld, but not in a wet environment!

here is a pick its a bit blurry but it shows what they did!

[DGXSER]

Hey Gorgan, sorry life is kicking you in the teeth. It happens to all of us at some point.

As to the carb, do a search for float post repair and I am sure you will find many options of what has been tried.

If you post what type of carb you have (older with the vent Ts or newer with the mix screw down in the tower) someone may have what you need.

[Larrym]

Reduce, Reuse, Recycle= Repair Properly.

Hi gorgan8,

I can't see using JB Weld in a submerged-in-fuel environment either. Here's what I found when I pulled off my float bowl:





This carb is not in service as eventually I'd end up stranded somewhere. I do plan on repairing the post properly and there's a number of different methods to do this. Though I could go on the hunt for a replacement carb, in the end the only thing wrong with the carb above is that broken post. It's not "unrecoverable."

I haven't yet seen anyone post a pic of the end result/failure of the JB Weld fix for the float posts. The one you posted isn't viewable cause it came from facebook. Would be nice for all to see what does happen to that particular "fix".

I hope you find that over the years your XS gives a better return on your investment/affection.

[gorgan8]

cool, i just need a grinder, tap, die, and a brass bar

thanks for the links and info, i was thinking about a fix but wasnt sure if id hit some kind of passage drilling into the post. now all i need are the tools to do it all. thanks again.

[tarzan]

"cool, i just need a grinder, tap, die, and a brass bar"

Actually you could get a brass bolt at the hardware store and cut the head off.
Then tap the post for that thread and screw the bolt into the post.
Grind a flat on the float side and, drill a hole in the post for the float pin.

[trbig]

Tarzan, that's the best, rock solid way to fix that post that I've heard yet. How does a thread lock like Loctite stand up to fuel? Though with that pin through it it wouldn't be able to back out, it might still be some insurance?

You might be able to find a shouldered bolt.. something the threads don't have to be quite so large, while a thicker base would give you more to drill through for the float pin?


Tod

[Yard Dogg]

Check out this thread. There is a guy on here looking for someone who will send him their carb with a broken float post so he can fix it with some new method he wants to try. Here's the link.

http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=26958

[gorgan8]

I think i'd rather do the work myself, ! cause i know what i need to do, and i cant blame anyone if it gets messed up ( not that i think i will mess it up) and 2. you cant beat the feeling of doing it yourself. If had a milling machine and a lathe and a few other tools, i could cad out a perfect match, but the days are getting warmer and I need to go for a long ride. once i get the stuff to do it, I'll post the repair here, I'm sure i will have plenty more questions

[fabricgator]

Just a thought...

A few years back, I bought at a gun show, some aluminum solder alloy. This stuff is pretty cool and one of their demo's was a motorcycle side cover with a hole in it. This solder (probably a high silver content) is used with a propane torch. They would punch a 1/4" hole in a soda can with a phillips screw driver, then scotch brite the area. Heat with propane torch and wisk the hole with the solder stick while applying gentle heat from afar.

If I had the chips from my carb float post, I would use that for the repair.. Gasoline is not going to dissolve it.

Read all about it: http://gasengine.farmcollector.com/E...Does-Work.aspx

I just did a web search, and there is much information available.
Hobart even has a version of it..... its gotta be good then!

Enjoy the brain candy!

[gorgan8]

ok the ifx plus some pix

http://i736.photobucket.com/albums/x...8/SSPX0022.jpg

<a href="http://s736.photobucket.com/albums/xx1/gorgan8/?action=view&current=SSPX0023.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i736.photobucket.com/albums/xx1/gorgan8/SSPX0023.jpg" border="0" alt="the weld is cracked around the pin hole"></a>

this is the J.B.weld the post was loose, the weld went down the sides and all the way around, and the pin was glued in, when i opened that bowl, i first seen the post then noticed that chunks of debris was in the carb, all of dried cracked off chunks of weld. while cleaning it out i had chunks coming out of the flow ports and the seat u name it.

[gorgan8]

sorry bout the last post my session timed out!

http://i736.photobucket.com/albums/x...8/SSPX0022.jpg

http://i736.photobucket.com/albums/x...8/SSPX0023.jpg

this is the J.B.weld the post was loose, the weld went down the sides and all the way around, and the pin was glued in, when i opened that bowl, i first seen the post then noticed that chunks of debris was in the carb, all of dried cracked off chunks of weld. while cleaning it out i had chunks coming out of the flow ports and the seat u name it. then at the top, above the pin hole Which was not straight the weld cracked and wasn't going to last too much longer anyway.

http://i736.photobucket.com/albums/x...8/SSPX0029.jpg

so i went to the store and found all the things i needed to do the repair, OK, i got 4 different ways but i stumbled onto a 1'' extension threaded post made of aluminum from a company called HILLMAN ( found it at lows and matched it for a thread of 8-32nc) it was just about the right size. with a smaller threaded shaft. (if this failed i bought a bar of brass round to make the basically the same) beyond that i used a 13/64 drill bit to make a shelf for the shaft to sit on, then a used the 8-32nc tap. i lightly tightened the new piece down and marked hole placement using the other post as a guide. then i turned it 90 degrees from that mark to make the pin hole. i filed the side just enough for the pin and drilled it a few thousandths up to compensate for full torquing. when i installed, i used the drill bit to help torque it in.at firth the shelf was a hair too high and my pin didn't not line up, so i lowered it a few slow turns with the drill. its now in, even and holding, i picked it up by the float pin and it didn't budge so I think it should be good. to finish i filed the sides down to the correct gap for free float movement.

http://i736.photobucket.com/albums/x...8/SSPX0028.jpg

http://i736.photobucket.com/albums/x...8/SSPX0025.jpg

hope this helps anyone, and thanks for all your help and insight!

[tarzan]

very nice

That is an easy quick way.And it should last forever.

When I work on these carbs anymore.I pull the pins
and sand the part of the pin with a little larger diameter
on it.That is the part that is a light press or net fit which
makes the pins a mother to remove.Those pins cant come out
when the bowl is installed, so I don't know why Yamaha did
that.

[gorgan8]

yeah, the rest of mine were lose so filed the rebuild on to a snug fit, bench tested the carbs and not the fuel t is leaking so on to bigger and better adventures.

[Larrym]

Extinction Warning!!

Thanks for the blow-by-blow pics, gorgan8.

Methinks that this is truly the end for the "JB-Weld" Repair era and the beginning for the Bionic Float Post Period.

Now if only JB Weld would ask the government for a bail-out and not get one.

[psycoreefer]

Very Nice! One quick question, do you have the part number for that post, or a picture of the bag it came in, or even just the section of lowes where you found it? Might help the next person find the same part.