Carb Float height

[Rickrod3]

My float height seems to be all over the place.
Which one should I aspire to emulate 1,2,3,or 4?

http://s910.photobucket.com/albums/a...nt=Carb1-1.jpg

http://s910.photobucket.com/albums/a...rent=Carb2.jpg

http://s910.photobucket.com/albums/a...rent=Carb3.jpg

http://s910.photobucket.com/albums/a...rent=Carb4.jpg
TIA
Rick

[randy]

Dude, you've got an F, set the floats to 25.4mm, sync 'em and ride it. No need to muck around with that plumbing exercise.

[Rickrod3]

Dude, you've got an F, set the floats to 25.4mm, sync 'em and ride it. No need to muck around with that plumbing exercise.

I don't trust myself with the caliper yet. I'm not comfortable with the caliper. I seem to find it too easy to put pressure on the needle thus messing up the measurement.

After all plumbing comes naturally to me being one.

Rick

[Larrym]

Levels and More Levels???



Rickrod3,

Please, oh PLEASE, tell me that these results aren't after you set the floats??!!

I've always wondered what happens inside after doing the adjustment but I've never done the fluid level check like you have done. (I just couldn't take it if they weren't absolutely perfect...)

One option that sorta uses the depth gauge of the calipers is to make a go/no go jig out of a credit card. (An old one or a new one that you get in the mail in one of those "You're Already Pre-Approved!!" offers...)

Just measure and cut the card in the shape of an "L" with the cut-out section the exact distance you need. I think DGXSER did one with two sides: one for the max and the other for the min. Also make sure to include a slot in the edge which registers against the gasket surface of the carb so you can slide it along the lip and not be fighting to keep the gauge in the right position.

I looked for a detailed picture of that go/no go gauge but struck out.Best I could ever find was a pic of DennyZ using one of these gauges at a "Carb Clinic". Sorry bout that.

IIRC the best level to strive for is the one where the fluid is just below the float bowl lip: the surface that the 4 screws which hold the bowl on mate against. (I'm prob'ly wrong about this though....)

[tarzan]

#4 looks closest to me.I think fuel level should be a little under the parting line.I thought I read that somewhere.

[Larrym]

No Help Here...

I found this pic in the tech tip thread for "Carb Float Balancing":



Thread is here:

http://www.xs11.com/xs11-info/tech-t...balancing.html

Unfortunately this may not help out much as by my eyes the carbs in the pic are the later models with the inset idle/air mixture screw and the different float setting.

But you, Rickrod3, prob'ly already knew that/seen that pic and that's why ya asked us for an answer.

You're gonna make me hook up those tubes and take photos the next time I have my carbs off the bike.

You really don't want that: The pics will be in 3D!!

[DGXSER]

The level in the pic Larry provided is spec'd at .12" from the bowl to body joint line +/- .04"

[randy]

Critical to having a smooth running engine is getting all the carbs adjusted as close to equal as possible. IMHO, that begins with setting the floats at equal heights, whether with a credit card or caliper. Small mixture changes can later be made with the mixture screws.

If no modifications have been made to the airbox, jets or exhaust, and assuming there are no air/vacuum leaks, the stock setting of 25.4 mm just plain WORKS.

Keep it simple.

[Rickrod3]

Plastic floats

I have replaced the brass floats with plastic.
Its possible that that effects the stock setting.
Some have said yes some have set no.
I have mine all even and the floats are set at a average height of 23MM
I think its a tad higher than the pic Larry posted.
Here is where they all are now.

http://s910.photobucket.com/albums/a...Carb1test2.jpg

Rick

[randy]

Fuel level is a tad high, that corresponds with your float setting, 2mm higher than stock. It may still run good but I think it will run rich because everything else on the engine is stock. YMMV.

BTW, plastic floats are fine. You just can't mix plastic and brass in the same carb set. Equal is the goal.

[dbeardslee]

I've got an "F" with upgraded plastic floats. Gotta agree with Randy - set them to 25 1/2 and ride it. When I set mine I use a carpenters combination square. I set it about 1mm wide of the mark and adjust the floats 'till I can see about 1mm's worth of light between the square and the top of the float. That way you don't inadvertently push down on the float. JAT

[81xsproject]

Critical to having a smooth running engine is getting all the carbs adjusted as close to equal as possible. IMHO, that begins with setting the floats at equal heights, whether with a credit card or caliper. Small mixture changes can later be made with the mixture screws.

If no modifications have been made to the airbox, jets or exhaust, and assuming there are no air/vacuum leaks, the stock setting of 25.4 mm just plain WORKS.

Keep it simple.

Well said, Randy. I have done the floats both ways. Float height are easy, and give great consistent results. The fuel height is a HUGE PITA, and didn't provide any improvement over the other method.

[SFerinTEXAS]

I would also pic your 4 level as target. There to the lip on the bowl where the screw seats.

Against the " set it and forget it " common view , I propose that line of thinking can produce similar results as your level tubes show. You go boy.

[Yahman]

That's just about perfect!

I found this pic in the tech tip thread for "Carb Float Balancing":

I have found that the best range to shoot for is from one side of the lock washer next to the head of the screw, to the other side where it seats against the float bowl.

And I have found that on old carbs with plastic floats, you tend to get different fuel levels when the floats are set to the same height. JMO

Larry

[Larrym]

My Personal Bliss

And I have found that on old carbs with plastic floats, you tend to get different fuel levels when the floats are set to the same height. JMO

Larry

Requires my Personal Ignorance.

I SOoo didn't hear that: