Ugly Forks

[Rickrod3]

Hi All:

Take a look at these forks
http://s910.photobucket.com/albums/a...t=DSCF2797.jpg

Tried emery paper, wire wheels nothing removes the stains.
Is there clear coat sealing in the uglyness?
Could it be caused by fork oil from leaking seals?

TIA
Rick

[crazy steve]

Looks like the clearcoat is lifting. Time for some paint stripper (messy) or blue scotchbrite (not as messy). They'll probably need to be repolished.

'78E original owner

[Rickrod3]

Thanks steve could it have been caused by fork oil?

Rick

[crazy steve]

Possibly, but I doubt it. It's more likely that the OEM finish has cracked with age and some moisture has got behind it. The only fix is to strip all the old finish off, at which point they will almost surely need to be repolished. If you haven't serviced the forks, this would be a great time to pull and disassemble them, renewing the seals and oil while you're at it.

And it's nice to see an unmolested Standard for a change. The rest of the bike is looking good...

'78E original owner

[Rickrod3]

thanks again Steve.

With your advise hope to have the forks looking up to par.

Rick

[Giggity]

I used a wire wheel on the bench grinder to strip my clear coat off. Worked well and gave me the brushed aluminum look I was going for. Using different grit polishing pastes and LOTS of time will give you a very shiny surface.
Good luck

[MaximPhil]

thanks again Steve.

With your advise hope to have the forks looking up to par.

Rick

Hi Rick,
Looks like clear coat peeling to me. I am supposed to be down stairs cleaning mine instead of sitting here typing. I have been told to use 1000 grit waterpaper followed by buffing with jewelers rouge for a mirror like finish.
If I ever figure out how to post a picture I will show the end result....but don't hold your breath
Phil

[tarzan]

I use jasco paint stripper.Just brush it on and let it sit for about 10 minutes,
then scrape it off with a rubber scraper.I do it a second time and they clean up well.I scrub 'em lightly with steel wool to get anything thats left on them.Use rubber gloves.I can remove, disassemble, clean, polish, install new seals and reassemble both in about 4-5 hours.
Time well spent.And cheap to do.

[Rickrod3]

Thanks again

Will read the manual and give it a go.


Rick

[Schming]

Don't Mix...

anything steel with an aluminum surface as particles of the steel will embed into the surface of the aluminum. Try Permatex Gasket Remover to strip the old clearcoat. Spray it on wait about ten or fifteen minutes wash it off with water, not in the kitchen sink I used it on all my parts to date and It's so easy a cave... ahh You know

[fredintoon]

Hi All:

Take a look at these forks
http://s910.photobucket.com/albums/a...t=DSCF2797.jpg

Tried emery paper, wire wheels nothing removes the stains.
Is there clear coat sealing in the uglyness?
Could it be caused by fork oil from leaking seals?

TIA
Rick

Hi Rick,
that looks like the engine sidecovers on my XS650.
It's the factory clearcoat falling off in patches and the aluminum that's exposed where the clearcoat is missing that is starting to discolour to give you that mottled effect.
Heavy duty paintstripper is needed to remove the rest of the clearcoat then it's buffing wheel time.
But the sliders' looks don't affect how well the forks work.
Polish them by all means but first replace the leaking seals and inspect the fork tubes for surface defects that might damage the new seals.

[Rev.Rick]

I have done a couple sets of forks that had the same issue. I used Kleenstrip air craft paint remover. You spray it on let sit for 15 to 30 minute and then spray off with water hose. Like others have said you will need to repolish them. If you don't have any really bad defects, use 1000 grit wet sand paper. I like to put a little dish soap in the water I wet sand with because it adds lubracation. After you use the 1000 grit you step up to 1500 then maybe even 2500. I usually go from 1500 to 000 steel wool followed by 0000 steel wool (if you have some defects that the 1000 grit won't remove you can start with 320 then 600 then 1000). Then for the final touch I use either NeverDull metal polishing wool or a aluminum polishing rag I got years ago called a Classic Cloth (still available through web site). I think it brings out as good a shine as spending hours with jewelers rough and a buffing wheel.

[Rickrod3]

well not perfect But:

Acceptable for the time being.

http://s910.photobucket.com/albums/a...t=DSCF2804.jpg

http://s910.photobucket.com/albums/a...t=DSCF2803.jpg

I gave them a coat of wax for protection.
Going to move on the fork seals new wheel bearings brakes and a front tire.
Tire already mounted (dam I pinched another tube)

The fight I'm having with my alter ego is: do I go deeper and check out the steering bearing?
It seems to move good but I'm right there now.
I'm dying for my first test run.
weather is cold and roads are full of salt.

time for my medication
Rick

[Larrym]

Steer Clear and Straight

Rickrod3,

Acceptable??? Naw...Impressive if you look at the before pics. (JWD!!)

Have you ever tried using baby/talcum powder on the inner tube? Makes it smell baby fresh and also tends to let the tube slide easier against the inner surface of the tire: less chance of it binding up in the partially inflated state.

I had to go into the triple tree/steering bearing on my first XS. The bike just wouldn't track going down the road. (Very frustrating!!!): a symptom of a too tight or glitchy bearing.

Thing is I went into it twice even though the bike had a windjammer fairing which had to be dealt with each time. Sadly even though I cleaned, regreased, and adjusted the headset I still hated the way it handled with the fairing so I sold the bike.

You're a lot closer to the source than I was: Go fer it is my vote. Just be sure to take extra care with all those steel bolts in the aluminum. Lots of penetrant and wait the 24 hours for the chemical to do its job.

Besides, with luck you'll never have to go in that deep again until the end of the world as we know it.

That's in 2012 according to the Mayans...

[bikerphil]

do I go deeper and check out the steering bearing?

Go for it, can't ride right now anyway. It'll handle soooo much better with fresh grease. 30 yr. old grease kinda sucks.