What are the correct REAR brake pads for a 79F?

[cywelchjr]

Hmm...the description says they are

Should I hold on to these to use in a pinch and order some others from MikesXS? Or will one set not kill my rotors too bad and just get different ones next time?

I don't like what they were doing to my rotors, and they turned out to be very noisy. When I changed my forks because of blown seals and couldn't get them apart (they still won't come apart, but I swear they WILL eventually ) I put my old ones back on as they still have a few thousand miles of life left in them (I like to change them before they get to the "have to change them now" point and keep them around as spares just in case. I still have the stupid sintered pads on the back, but they went on because the back was down to the backing plate, so no spares there. I'll be changing them out as soon as I can wedge them into the budget, and I'll be changing all the pads on the bike at once, and the pyramid ones on the back go in the can just like the front ones did. I don't figure I'll be buying any more parts from those guys, I'm not please with the stuff they are passing off, even if it was in the past. If I end up replacing my rotors I'll go for the EBC ones, a little less rotating mass and unsprung weight, but I think I'm fine for the forseeable future. (barring me doing something stupid that damages the rotors )

[Incubus]

If you are planning to remove your wheels I personally would replace the brake pads first, then remove the wheels. You'll find it much easier to get the calipers apart if they are still bolted to the bike.

Patrick

[cywelchjr]

If you are planning to remove your wheels I personally would replace the brake pads first, then remove the wheels. You'll find it much easier to get the calipers apart if they are still bolted to the bike.

Patrick

$10 part at the local auto parts store will work with the XS brakes and your car too, and I find it easier to use the tool than try to lever them apart still on the bike. The tool is sort of like a c-clamp but has a plate that fit into the side of the caliper opposite the cylinder and the screw pushes the piston back in easily. Was like $10 at Kragen's for normal price and they have the old stuff 1/2 off right now as they change brands. Otherwise I just use a large c-clamp which works wonderfully and easily to push it back in. Done it this way for years because I found it to be easier than trying to lever it back in with the calipers still in place (which is how I was taught to do it with the first disk brakes I worked with back in the early 70's). Now I know better and do it the easy way.

[motoman]

EBC pads ARE better than the Yammy originals. Won't use anything but OEM's on my ST as the rotors won't stand up to the material used in EBC's and some of the other aftermarket pads. Best part using the EBC's(FA34 front and rear for the Bentley) is the Yamaha rotors are super hard, thicker material than most and have no issue getting mashed with sintered pads.