Splitting the f*%$#@ng cases

[randy]

Broken bolts / stud removal update

First time I've ever used left-hand bits to remove broken bolts. Best $20 I ever spent. Both broken bolts spun out after only a few minutes. Now I can set the crank bearings and check the clearances. I think first I'll run a tap through all the holes and clean 'em up

Thanks again, Tod, for the replacement bolts. And everyone else who offered, thanks too!

[jmnjrpa]

Randy,

I would use a form tap for cleaning up the threads. It will not remove metal and will actually make the threads better/harder. Use a bar of soap for lubrication if you do not have a moly grease or oil.

[trbig]

Not a problem. Let me know if there's anything else you need. It will be enough for me to know that you now have some XJ stuff on that motor! lol.


Tod

[randy]

Last dumb question

Being that I had so much trouble with snapping bolts I was wondering if there are opinions about using any lube or anti-sieze on the mains? Good idea or bad?

[jmnjrpa]

This may be a touchy subject

but, I use anti-sieze on most all bolts that thread into aluminum. Torque it properly. Never had a problem after using it. Matter-o-fact I tore into an aluminum engine I had rebuilt 25 years ago and despite being out in the weather for a dozen years it had no corrosion on the threads of any bolt.

[bikerphil]

I've always used just motor oil, I guess anti seize would be OK too.

[trbig]

Hmmm.. My personal beliefs in this are.. there are severl places you are supposed to use Loc-tite to help keep a bolt from not grabbing with enough friction to the aluminum. Now you are going to reduce that friction with the anti-seize? The aluminum expands and contracts at a different rate than the steel.. If the little guys in white lab coats wanted it on there they would have... blah blah.

That being said, in the military, on the jets, just about every steel bolt screwed into aluminum had to have antiseize on it?

So two sides here:

1. It may make it easier to remove the bolts later if there doesn't seem to be a problem with them loosening off.

2, If you do the damn thing right in the first place, you probably won't ever have to go back in there and won't have to worry either way!


Tod

[randy]

Well, lets see....that's two + the military...hmmm..almost a consensus

[crazy steve]

but, I use anti-sieze on most all bolts that thread into aluminum. Torque it properly. Never had a problem after using it. Matter-o-fact I tore into an aluminum engine I had rebuilt 25 years ago and despite being out in the weather for a dozen years it had no corrosion on the threads of any bolt.

I gotta go with John on this one too; aluminum loves to stick to ferrous metal. But you still feel uneasy about no locktite? Put a dab under the head of the bolt, not on the threads. This stuff is just looking for two surfaces to glue together, why won't these do?

'78E original owner

[randy]

Finally some progress worthy of photos.

You now how one thing leads to another, especially in winter. Starter clutch led to main / rod bearings led to paint & polishing.. you know that "while I'm doing this" syndrome. Here are some pics before it goes back in the frame.

[trbig]

Where'd you find the washers that go under the head nuts? Did you just paint the originals?

Looks good Randy. Are the carbs painted or powder coated?


Tod

[79XS11F]

Yes in deed that engine is looking REAL NICE!! What product and color number is the paint on the cases? Or is it power coated?
Rob

[randy]

The brass washers and stainless head nuts are from Mike's XS, the carbs were painted a couple of years ago with Duplicolor METALCAST. The carb painting is a project in itself cause they have to come completley apart.

The engine is done with Rustoleum 2000degree Flat Aluminum #248904.

Thanks for the compliments.

[blue giant]

That is one clean looking engine Randy!

You sure you want to put back in Swamp Thing and get it all oily and dirty?

[dpotter58]

very pretty