Evapo-rust

[Rasputin]

I am trying a product here that is supposed to remove rust quite well. I took some pics before and after 1 hour of soak time. First pic is the product. The three pics following it are the before pics. Then there is just a pic of how I soaked em. Then there are three after 1 hour pics. I have posted more than 1 pic of each to try to show the differences better, I hope they turn out well. I tried to use a variety of different types of metal, but I only had so many rusty parts. I was going to try for a pic every couple of hours, but my bed is calling so I will post more tomorrow. Should be close to 24 hrs by then. This product is supposed to work well in our gas tanks and on lots of different parts. Do a Google search on Evapo-rust and it comes right up (for more info). I am wondering how well it will do myself.









Damn I suck at taking pictures. I will try to get SWMBO to do them tomorrow

[Larrym]

Back In Black

Excellent!

I've been wondering how this stuff would work as compared to the ole standard "OSPHO". The price and concentration may be different but i guess it sorta works in the same way: converting the iron oxide into something black.

Thanks for doing the "in-home" tests and sharing the results.

Billy Mays would approve!!

[Ivan]

I tried to use this stuff on my exhaust. On the flange that I could get completely submerged, it did really well. But to buy enough to completely submerge even just the muffler would be more than just buying a NOS exhaust. I think it was about $40 a gallon at O'really?s. Mine was a half gallon that was right at $20.

As far as I can tell its the same as CLR, which is much cheaper at Lowe's, and probably about the same as a Oxalic and Phosphoric acid mix, since it definitely had the odor of phosphoric acid mixed with vomit and stagnant urine. Who knows, maybe its leftovers from all those random drug tests.

[Rasputin]

Ivan.
All I could get was litre bottles here. Yer right it was 8 bucks a litre. I did not notice much smell to it though. It does say in the instructions that if you can not submerge it to soak paper towels and wrap it. Then wrap it in plastic so it does not evaporate. It also says if it does evaporate while in a bucket that you can just add water.
I paid 140 bucks to get my last tank cleaned and sealed so I wanted to try this. If it works good and is cheaper than having someone else do it then great. The other thing is if it works and I have rusty parts that are hard to come by, then I have an alternative. I am almost having to run to the garage to peek at it but I will leave it till tomorrow

[Rasputin]

20 hours in

This morning before work I had a quick peek at what was happening in the jug of Evapo-rust and goodies. When I got home tonight it pretty much looked the same as this morning, so I rinsed the parts off, let em dry and took some pics. I did not scrub nor wipe anything while doing this. I simply put parts in and let them soak. I sent SWMBO to the house to load the pics onto the computer, so I could show you guys the results. After she left with the camera, I decided to take a swipe at the parts with a wire brush. I was amazed at how clean they came with just 2 or 3 strokes with the brush. They shined right up. I will get pics of that tomorrow. For now, here is what the parts looked like after a 20 hour soak. The pipe wrench and the case guard were only ever partially submerged, so some rust still shows on them. Oh yeah and it did stink after it started working, just like Ivan described earlier.

[Larrym]

The Power of the Dark Side...

The case guard looks like a good before/after result.

My questions is about the stuff that has turned black:

Are you supposed to try and remove all the black or should one leave it on as a sort of "protective barrier" against future rusting?

Is the black stuff on tight or would it tend to flake off? (As in the inside of a gas tank would have the same results: need to regularly replace fuel filters???)

Better living through modern chemicals....

[Varnae]

Looks to me like it did an amazing job on the crash guard. I wonder if it would do that well on an exhaust pipe...

[81xsproject]

I don't see how it would be the same as CLR. The evaporust claims "No Acid" and CLR's main active ingredient is phosphoric acid, I believe.

[Rasputin]

The case guard looks like a good before/after result.

My questions is about the stuff that has turned black:

Are you supposed to try and remove all the black or should one leave it on as a sort of "protective barrier" against future rusting?

Is the black stuff on tight or would it tend to flake off? (As in the inside of a gas tank would have the same results: need to regularly replace fuel filters???)

Better living through modern chemicals....

Sure sure, ask me that about a half hour after I dumped some in my gas tank. Of course I did not think of that before you asked so I guess I will be finding out soon enough.
The black stuff seems to come off very easily. In fact 2-3 strokes of a wire brush is all it took to get it off the rougher materials, ie pipe wrench jaws. On the harder and smoother surfaces like the allen keys it came off with a wipe from a cloth. I would have to say it is fair to assume on should try to get it off of the inside of a fuel tank. As to it flaking off in chunks, i dont think that will happen. The black stuff seems to be almost like soot. It cleaned up similarily to cleaning something you blackened with a candle or torch with an acetylene flame.
I have a few ideas as to how I am going to clean the black stuff inside of my tank (now that I thought of it.) I think some media blasting material in there and shook around should get most of it. I have some other ideas as well but not sure what way to go yet. I still have a few hours soaking time before I have to worry about that.
I do have some pics coming of what it looks like after a light wire brushing or a wipe with a cloth. I am not that good with the camera yet, so SWMBO'd has to fix me up when she gets home. I will get em posted tonight.
Oh yeah here is their site, so you can look into it if you like.
http://www.evapo-rust.com/

[Rasputin]

Final experiment results

Ok, here are the last set of pics. This is after a few swipes with a wire brush or wiping with a cloth. See post above this one. I think the stuff worked really well. I will start another thread with the tank and its results once that is done. Hope some of this had helped someone decide one way or another.

[SFerinTEXAS]

Rust info

This maybe TMI for most people but its the most comprehensive Site I've ever seen on rust and most products and methods to treat it.

http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/Rust

[Yahman]

SFerin, Thanks for the link, very informative.

Rasputin, Thank you for the report, it's always good to get someones actual experience with a product.

Larry

[latexeses]

This looks like a pretty good option. I want to give the Evapo-Rust a try with the method they use in the videos on this site, http://www.safestrustremover.com/overview.asp but on a much smaller scale. I have a small pump for running one of those tabletop fountains I picked up on sale at Harbor Freight Tools and I am going to try running a bath of the rust remover over the parts that are too big to be submerged in the remover. Maybe put the rust remover in a plastic paint roller pan and stand the part up in the shallow end and the pump in the deep end.

Right now this is way down on the to-do list. Preceeded by the 150 items on the honey-do list.

[Mashermoto]

Rasputin, et. al.,

Evaporust is my favorite friend

http://www.evaporust.com/

I've used it for a couple of bike builds now and have had very good results. Usually for really rusted up stuff I just put in my container over night and rinse it off the next day or so. I've got a gallon in my 78 XS1100E tank right now.

Here is what I found from experience:

1. Works best with chrome parts. Takes out all rust, but beware that rust pits still remain. So cover the chrome parts with something like wax polish.

2. Bolts and screws like side case screws will clean up nicely, but evaporust will change the color.

3. Rubber parts are excellent candidates for evaporust. It not only cleans them, but tends to restore some of the flexibility. My bike had brake line hoses that I didn't know had letters on them until I Evaporust'd them.

4. Some painted items lose the paint but other items don't. I haven't really figured this one out other than I think the rattle can stuff might not hold up.

5. DO NOT SOAK YOUR PETCOCKS IN EVAPORUST!!!!! I don't know what petcocks are made of, but I soaked a set for about three weeks and it ruined them Everything else I had soaked didn't seem to matter how long I soaked them...so I threw my petcock parts in the solution and forgot about them. Here is what they looked like when I rinsed them off.



Although Evaporust cleans gasoline tarnish real well, carburators look like the same metal as petcocks. So be careful...a few hours probably won't hurt, but I wouldn't go over night.

6. I pour my Evaporust in a plastic bucket with a lid. Actually its one of those buckets that swimming pool chlorine comes in As long as you keep Evaporust sealed it won't go bad. Also, just because it turns black, don't throw it away. It still works. Just keep using it until it doesn't clean effectively.

7. Lastly, Evaporust doesn't work well in cold weather. I started soaking my gas tank when the temperture was around 30 to 35 degrees. I noticed it didn't do much. After reading the website, I found out about the need for a higher temperture. After bringing it inside it worked just fine

So in my humble opinion...go forth and Evaporust