New project: XS1100 endurance racer

[DEEBS11]

Very cool Mathh. I worry about the regulator taking heat from the motor fins. Keep an eye on that on a 93° day. Does your display have a volt meter?

[Mathh]

A modern spade type fuse box with a lot more fuses than stock is bolted out of sight with one bolt to the right headlamp and one DZUS fastener to unclamp it from its position in case of a broken fuse.



Last (I hope...) the wiring harness.... but that will be done right before painting the frame.

some more pics ..





I made some brackets on the valve cover to bolt the fairing in its place (with 5 DZUS fasteners, one in the middle below the headlamps) and the screen gets plastic fasteners which are used on modern fairings.



Next on the list will be welding and fitting of the final version of the 4-2-1-2 exhaust...

[Mathh]

The TCI will also find a place on the fairing bracket, maybe two on top of each other (one spare). The grey covers on the lamps in the picture will close the gap to the fairing.



The Ignition switch, starter button and light switch are bult in the front of the dashboard



The front brake switch is hydraulic and inline between mc and brake line. The rear lights …already on the seat but they need just a connector under the seat.
Then the relais for the lights, horn and starter which found a place below the dash inside the fairing and on the left side of the dashboard come a couple of auxiliary switches. The handlebar has coloured push button switches for high beam, kill switch and horn. The actual horn is mounted in front of the coils in the front triangle. Out of sight. Picture shows the push buttons.



The battery got a place under the seat at the rear of the frame (starter relais at the back of it and close to the starter motor). Using quick connect connectors with very short connections.



This ’98 Kawasaki ZX9R regulator/rectifier now fits behind the cylinder on top of the clutch cover. i Chose it because of the large cooling area. As there is very little room on the bike this is the only place I could think of, close between the alternator, ignition and battery.

[Mathh]

So a new tacho pickup is needed for the NPN proximity sensor that picks up the negative pulses from the new bracket from the crank… like this one on my Triump 1200 which has another one of these.



Same for the speedo pickup, same sensor but it will be getting its negative pulses from a mini sprocket that will be attached to the front sprocket. Number of teeth (17) is calculated back from rear tire circumference and gearing ratio.



Next.. as we were trial fitting the fairing at least three times per day we might as well start with the head lamps. After losing heaps of time searching for a good looking position I decided to go with two 100mm head lamps in a low position, looking like one of the Italian Bimota’s. They are fitted on the fairing bracket together with other electrical stuff that I need.



Without the fairing they look very high because of the ultra low headstock, but once the fairing is on it looks already better:



Here a pic from the inside of the fairing:

[Mathh]

Electrics and its hardware …yeah ... Its because all my projects eventually arrive at this stage: I have been moving this job forward and forward but eventually I have to dive in , so I might as well do it now.

Starting with the coils. Up front under the tank in the air flow. Only two coils as I gave up on the 8 plug cylinder head. This is one of 8 famous factory race cylinder heads that I wanted to replicate. Here is a picture of it..



I got the advice from a racer that welding and drilling the new (vertical) plug holes could lead to distortion of the head. So that turned into a no-no.
And here is the new location of the coils, not in the space inside the tank as was planned. Simply because there is room and cool air available in the new location.. And as always I use used coils from the earlier Fireblades. They are several generations later than the stock coils, cost next to nothing as they never fail and have screw-on plug cables. Just ditch the ballast resistor.



The speedo/tacho unit until now was this Motogadget unit which also found a place on the fairing bracket.



And here is the location for its speedo drive, the sensor picks up the magnet in one of the rear brake disc bolts.



However as it is no longer to my taste I will swap it later with this electronic tach from a Honda VTR1000 SP1. Still modern but less bling bling. It comes from the turbo bike which I have been dismantling. It was a bitch to get it working as the electronics resemble those inside a last generation smart TV.

[Mathh]

Thanks! And I agree!

[DEEBS11]

The DZUS fastener bases welded to the bag rails.

[DEEBS11]

Mathh, incredible build. I love the tail piece and tail lights. I am a big fan of Dzus fasteners also. I used them on my KZ1000 MKII Alaska bike to attach the diamond plate bags. They have not fallen off in the 90,000 miles I put on that bike since 1999. They quick release with no tool so you can work on the bike when needed.

[Mathh]

I fixed the rear lights to the seat and need a support for it, although it is not that heavy.. better be safe than sorry.







First I wanted to close the bottom of the seat but I decided to make everything as light as possible, just like the rest of the bike.



To keep everything in place I use DZUS quick release fasteners all over the bike. The seat gets one on top where the support sits and later another two halfway the seat fixed to the lower fuel tank.
Very handy.

[Mathh]

I decided to lower the seat hump to get it more in line with the fuel tank, this is before the change:



Cutting it up was the easy part ... looking better already:



Then the healing process,fixed everything in place and added fibre glass, mostly on the inside.. That definitely looks way better..



Added a mounting point to get the rear lights in the right angle..

[Mathh]

I also made the 6th engine mounting point. As you know I used the lower rear and the upper front ones in combination with a tube. That tube had the same size as the frame and was bolted in place of the rubber engine mounts. Eventually the tubes were bolted to the frame to become one rigid combo. The 5th engine mount came in the same spot as the breather cover on top of the engine.
And this was the solution for the 6th one (as I need 6 in total).





After a bit of milling ...



And finally..

[Mathh]

QUOTE=oldyam80sg;n876695]That exhaust itself is a work of art![/QUOTE]

Thanks man. Sadly that RC exhaust did not make it either. As of now you'll see some work that did make it to the end...

I bought some Tarozzi footrests that look a bit period and with some pieces of round steel and some machining I was able to make something to my taste.

This is the left side:



I did add a small gauge safety guard to stay clear of the chain



The right side was a bit more difficult because of the rear brake pump... a Brembo unit for a KTM with integrated master cylinder. I had to tilt it sideways to get the lever working properly..

[oldyam80sg]

That exhaust itself is a work of art!

[Mathh]

[oldyam80sg]

Excellent work!!