New project: XS1100 endurance racer

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  • Schming
    replied
    This product works amazing :

    Safeguard your metal surfaces from corrosion, oxidation, and weathering with Sharkhide Metal Protectant. Ideal for boats, RVs, and industrial applications—easy to apply, durable, and long-lasting.

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  • DEEBS11
    replied
    Clear Coat.

    Everbrite Coating will restore faded metal to look new again. Protect metal from tarnish and corrosion. Seal rusted metal to prevent staining. 4 oz. can



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  • DiverRay
    replied
    A 3M green pad as used on stainless steel would probably do it. The big problem with aluminum is trying to get a clear coat that is "self etching", as that is what is needed. Aluminum starts oxidizing as soon as you are done doing anything to it. A clear anodized look should give Mathh what he is looking for as far as color and durability.

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  • LAB3
    replied
    I've never clear coated a bare metal frame but have polished and sealed refinished aluminum. Have seen custom builds done that way and it just seems to make sense that if you're looking for a metal finish to use the metal you already have.

    One of the other ideas I've come up with (but have never done) would be to use an abrasive to "grain" the metal in other words scratch the metal in a certain direction. It would be a challenge to get the symmetry right but I bet it would set the project apart from other builds as I've never seen it done before

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  • Mathh
    replied
    Thanks for the support! I already heard of polishing the frame, LAB3 Have you done this yourself? I am curious if remains of the polishing paste will mess up the clear paint. If so it would be a great solution. DiverRay As for using metallic spray paint that was my first thought as well so I have tested a LOT of them varying from some RAL colors to metallic silver / platimun / aluminum in all shades , all from cars. Mostly Mercedes as they have very light silver colors on their cars. Once sprayed they were all too dark to my taste, almost gray. I'll make some pictures of some results tomorrow. DEEBS11 : That jet Hot coating is interesting as I spotted some pics with colors that com close to an aluminum frame. I'm just curious how hot the proces will be, I am a bit scared that the frame will warp a bit. We also have a ceramic coating proces overhere but the best color they have (for me that is) looks like a zinc finish which I find too dark. Anyway enough food to start a new search on the internet, thanks guys!
    Last edited by Mathh; 05-24-2024, 04:02 PM.

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  • DEEBS11
    replied
    I did an 84 XL600 frame for a restoration and it was a beautiful job. I have also did the exhaust of a VFR700 and it came out great as well. I highly recommend it.

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  • LAB3
    replied
    I was going to mention that but have no real world experience with those types of coatings.

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  • DEEBS11
    replied
    This is the sh*t.




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  • DiverRay
    replied
    I've used a metalic spray paint that did well for an indoor project. Not sure how it would do on a bike frame, though. How long a wait to powder coat the frame? you can get an aluminum look with that.

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  • LAB3
    replied
    As to the frame you could clean it up and polish it really good then seal it with a clear coat paint.

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  • Mathh
    replied
    I finished working on the fiberglass seat and front mudguard (pics will come later). I am also trying to design a new paint job for the bike so I made a zillion drawings / photoshops and so on. it should look like a Yamaha racer in the 79's/80's but not 1 on 1 and with some more adventurous colors. So no factory colors with the black and white speed blocks (some pics will come later).
    I am also looking for a color to put on my frame. I want my frame to look like it has been nickel- or chrome plated or even looking like an aluminum frame. So the last months I have been testing dozens of spray cans in all variations I could find. Nothing even came close. Real chroming or nickel plating is ridiculously expensive over here and waiting lists now reach the second half of next year. All other techniques I ever heard of ... same story or even more dramatic results. So my question is: Are there techniques / paints available on your side of the pond that maybe come close to what I am looking for?

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  • Mathh
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    The spare cylinder above was alsomeasured ok and cleaned up great!

    Then it was time for the cylinder heads
    Well... there were some problems. Numbers 3 and 4 failed in the leak test:

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    not dramatically but enough to not use them but luckily the ex-turbo cylinder head was in better shape.

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    Only one of the shim buckets was frozen in its place from standing and it only decided to let go when I heated it up with a torch. Sadly I made a scratch using a pair of pliers to get it out so I have to clean that up first. The turbo cams also were a lot darker because of heat and showed wear on the bearing surfaces so these have to go as well. The slotted cam sprockets however were looking good but for the racer I will stick with non-modified ones.

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    And luckily there is that third cylinder head lying around so we will be measuring that one up as well.

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    I hope to finish that next week.

    Anybody interested to read about the turbo bike, here is the topic: https://xs11.club/forum/idle-talk-fo...s-super-modded

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  • Mathh
    replied
    The plan was to check the spare engine that was used for building the frame. That was the original engine that came out of my turbo bike after a crash in the 80’s. But I forgot the cases were damaged on the ignition side and the repair did not look that good so I decided to swap it with the engine still fitted in the turbo bike.
    I have been selling that bike in parts since a couple of years as I no longer have time to rebuild it again. After 42 turbocharged years and 250.000 kms it was time to say goodbye to the bike that took me around most of Europe in the eighties and then some. Two years ago I already sold the 36 liter widened fuel tank and the YZF750 single seat and last year I sold the complete turbokit from that bike together with the Electromotiv fuel Injection with integrated ignition, intercooler plus the cylinder with pistons in one go.
    So I put the turbo engine on a workbench next to the spare engine to check and compare. The best engine will find its home in the racer and the remaining one will be sold together with the ex-turbo as a project for someone daring enough..

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    Well, it turns out that both engines have great looking clutches and gearboxes although the gears from the turbo bike were coloured blue from the heat. As I still have a spare gearbox in case of emergency I decided to leave everything in place to save time and work and after installing a complete kickstarter assembly in the engine destined for the racer I closed the cases again. Pistons and cylinders from the spare engine were cleaned and measured and are ok.

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    Last edited by Mathh; 02-10-2024, 03:43 PM.

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  • Mathh
    replied

    And this is how the bike looks at the moment, 14 years after the build started. Sorry for that hahaha. Ready to be taken apart further and getting prepped for paint.

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    I have to start thinking about colours and design now!
    Will be continued 😉

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  • Mathh
    replied
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    Now we still have to figure out how to connect the final link pipe to both muffler internals… that will be a 3D combination of a bend from the last interlink and a compact 1-2 to the mufflers side. Also we have to fabricate some decibel eaters that fit snugly inside the mufflers and some mounts to secure the rear of the exhaust to the frame (rubber mount) and the mufflers to the frame. Those 2 mounts will be done before the frame will be painted.

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    A while ago I started with a mini wiring diagram for this bike alone. I’m not a specialist but when I understand it, it will suffice hahaha. Still have to change a couple of things like tach and speedo unit and other things. I bet this will make life a lot easier when the wiring starts.

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