My XS11 Project - Juggernaut

[MrFreeze5]

the axle will thread into the frame about another 1/8-3/16" or so and give a bit more thread. Should be a little extra, so I can put a cotterpin through it or safety wire it or something.

[Mathh]

Nice to see things develop! Hope your M18 nut will not interfere with the U-joint. You definitely need a flat one
I left the axle on that end blank and used an M8 thread on the inside. That way I only needed to drill a hole with the diameter of the axle in the other pivot mount steel plate, then lock the axle with a washer and flat M8 bolt.
Keep up the good work!

[MrFreeze5]

I may still do that, but i wont mess with the threads until i get the engine in and can check everything. As it is, it will thread into the plate regardless, whether I use a nut on the end, or thread a bolt into it is still up in the air. Either way should be pretty secure I think. It depends on how far I need to move the Ujoint from its stock orientation.

Did you clearance the opening for the driveshaft in the swingarm? It looks like there is a little room there to move the driveshaft inward, but I dont know if that much extra offset would be bad for the joint or final drive.

[MrFreeze5]

Headlight bracket slapped together with the signals. The CF fairing should be here tomorrow I think. The headlight will probably sit about an inch or two higher than this I think, but not much more. I want the fairing and screen to hug the triple and bars and give me a nice little nook to place my gauges.

[thewright1]

Man, that thing is coming together nicely. Looks like you'll be riding that thing before I'm back on mine, and I don't even have half as much work as you

[MrFreeze5]

Man, that thing is coming together nicely. Looks like you'll be riding that thing before I'm back on mine, and I don't even have half as much work as you

The goal is to have a running, near completed bike by the end of May. The end of July is when I am planning my long road trip through the mountains. I hope to have it in tip-top shape and completely done by then.

[MrFreeze5]

Ok, I need a little help. ive run into another issue from not starting with a complete running bike.

Bar switches.

I have a right side switch box/throttle assy but the stickers are faded and the bottom switch is broken. Is the bottom switch the start switch I assume? and the thumb dial is on/off. Ive got a set of 07 R6 switches that I am going to use on this bike. Ive used them on other bikes with great results. But I want to make sure the left side will work and have all the buttons.

On the left side, there should be turn signals, hi/lo headlights, and horn right? Anything else? Did these bikes have hazards? Does the XS have a turn signal canceling switch? I think these switches will work well.

And where is the choke? I was looking at the new switch pods from Mike XS for reference and it mentioned a choke(or lack of).

This switch setup I plan on using has a seperate switch pod from the throttle, which I really like. So I am going to use a throttle assembly from a CRF dirtbike. It seems the only bikes nowadays that use a single throttle cable are dirt bikes. I think this assy I ordered should work great and might even accept the stock cable.

[subike]

the right side you are correct re the starter and kill switch, it also has the light switch
the left side has horn, high/low ,high flash, turn signal
the choke control is directly attached to the carbs on the left side of the engine.
new stickers can be bought for the switch blocks,
hazards were also on some of the later models
self cancelling turn signal ...well i'll let someone else explain..

[MrFreeze5]

the right side you are correct re the starter and kill switch, it also has the light switch
the left side has horn, high/low ,high flash, turn signal
the choke control is directly attached to the carbs on the left side of the engine.
new stickers can be bought for the switch blocks,
hazards were also on some of the later models
self cancelling turn signal ...well i'll let someone else explain..

The right XS switch I have doesnt have a light switch like I have seen some pictured. Just the thumb switch on top, and a spring sticking out where I assume the start switch goes at the bottom. Does that turn the lights on and off and then you control the hi/lo on the other side? I dont want to resticker since I am trying to update the look of the front end of the bike. I am using more modern controls which look better and should be more reliable and sturdy. Theyre also MUCH cheaper and more readily available. I happened to have this set in my spare parts, but the pair can be bought for about $20. it just requires the use of a separate throttle housing. Im sure I can make what I have work fine, but I might want to add an aux switch or two here or there. I dont want to lose functionality of an option I already have. The electrical system will definitely be pretty customized. As for the turn signal, it probably wont matter. I will be switching to a digi speedo, and most of the bikes I have seen have a switch in the speedo to cancel the signals, but this is my first bike that is this old. And again, I didnt start with a complete bike to begin with, so please pardon my ignorance on the little trivial things.

What is hi flash? is that momentary high beam? Like flash-to-pass?

[MrFreeze5]

My throttle assembly came in today. Its a pretty simple straightforward setup. Single cable setup from a CRF fiddy I think. It uses a full throttle throw as well, not the 1/3 turn that some dirt bikes have. The grip is a bit short, maybe 10-15mm shorter than a standard grip. I plan on using hard grips though, so I can use one a bit longer than the throttle tube. The cable is also very similar to the stock XS11 cable The XS cable will fit into the notch in the throttle tube just fine, and after running a screw through the side of the housing for the hold down tab, the stock cable is now installed into the CRF throttle housing. I need to get a shorter screw and a different nut for the hold down tab, but otherwise its good to go. Pics later.

[MrFreeze5]

I got the headlight mount attached to the triple today. Nice and easy and it will really clean up the look of the front end once the fairing is on. No clamps or brackets on the fork tubes. There's no adjustment really in this bracket setup, but I am pleased with where the light ended up and it should look really good with the small Monster fairing installed. I need to get some bolts for the headlight itself and of course paint the thing.

[TomRodgers]

I think subike meant "HAZ flash".

The right side has the starter button that is missing (on yours) the thumb switch on the top is RUN/KILL

The left switch is the horn, hi/low on the top (toggle switch) and if equipped, on the BOTTOM is a little switch that is for the hazzard flashers.....the choke is not on the bars....like previously stated, the choke is on the rack-o-carbs....

[MrFreeze5]

So was the headlight on/off switch an option then? I definately dont have one on my switch box, so i am assuming its like every other bike Ive owned and they come on automatically. But, from what I have heard, the XS doesnt have the strongest electrical system to begin with and could use the extra power when starting.

[TomRodgers]

Best of my knowledge they come on with the key....true. weak charging, but if bike is running good, it shouldnt be an issue. you could always wire in a toggle switch to kill the light if it will make you sleep better...but as long as the battery is good, and carbs/ignition is good, shouldnt matter..... what a lot of guys have done is go with LED lights where all possible. i changed out the guage lights and brake light with LED's. you CAN do a LED signal change, but requires the proper flasher unit. The biggest gain i have been able to determine is the new LED tail light. it is ALWAYS on...and the lower draw on the system has GOTTA make the system happy. HID lighting may help also....less watts more light... its ALWAYS on also. Thats the route im gunna go. LED in back and the HID in front. that will help.

[MrFreeze5]

Best of my knowledge they come on with the key....true. weak charging, but if bike is running good, it shouldnt be an issue. you could always wire in a toggle switch to kill the light if it will make you sleep better...but as long as the battery is good, and carbs/ignition is good, shouldnt matter..... what a lot of guys have done is go with LED lights where all possible. i changed out the guage lights and brake light with LED's. you CAN do a LED signal change, but requires the proper flasher unit. The biggest gain i have been able to determine is the new LED tail light. it is ALWAYS on...and the lower draw on the system has GOTTA make the system happy. HID lighting may help also....less watts more light... its ALWAYS on also. Thats the route im gunna go. LED in back and the HID in front. that will help.

Well in that case, Im set. LED signals(ive got inline resistors to work with the stock flasher), LED indicator lights and LCD gauge. HID H4 headlight, and probably an intergrated LED signal taillight. There shouldnt be a bulb anywhere on the bike except for the headlight. I also plan on using a modern sealed battery and probably upgraded coils.