Beginning to hate the rain

[XJOK2PLAY]

Tod:
Yes, but that has it's privaliges... for examples:

1) fewer tickets!

2) last trip out, he graciously gave me a nice pair of 'Petard leather riding gloves' (I say with my nose in the air...) hehehe

3) better gas mileage (helps us broke boys...)

4) Tires & brakes last longer... (see above reason)

5) So do ujoints, trannys, engines...

6) I learn all kinds of cool 'polishing tips'...

So hangin' w/ Bohn may not be the quickest, but it's like extra insurance, too... remember, he usually carries a full compliment of nice shiny tools, and a warehouse of extra parts! Can't beat that! AND... you can almost always set your watch by him... he always shows up... maybe just a couple of minutes back...

Plus... as an added bonus... we get to enjoy the show you & Cody put on in those twisties... reminds me of watchin' a 007 flick sometimes...

Besides... I seem to recall being in the front of the pack a lot of the time... at least not all THAT far back on our last couple of trips...
(that is... when I wasn't broke down and riding B**ch with somebody...) LOL

I can't help it if the old girl's loaded down and not a sprint bobber like Jeremy's... (whew... that's a quick little 11 there...)

[trbig]

'Petard leather riding gloves'

Get your nose out of the air. What he said was, "I have some gloves made for a RETARD. You want 'em?" lmao...

OK.. you aren't a retard, but that made ME laugh.. and isn't THAT what's really most important?


Tod

[XJOK2PLAY]

Hey...
Now I've NEVER called you any names....(that you know of...)

And they came with a tag... I read it. "PITARD... FOR THE SOPHISTICATED RIDER WHO DISCERNS QUALITY LEATHER FROM SIMPLE COWHIDE."

And you know... that discribes me to a tee...

Retard... boy, you better watch it...

[XJOK2PLAY]

Then later on that day, Bohn confessed that he'd bought 'em online somewhere on sale...

[trbig]

Well, got the coils and wires done. This is how thick the several layers of heat shrink made the wires. Hopefully that will be enough insulation to keep them from arcing.





I got them installed, the bad wire going to the R/R unit fixed, and the middle drive swapped out... but the driveshaft was kicking my azz trying to get it back into the u-joint... so I quit for the night. No idea if this will help my problem... but don't see how it could hurt anything. I also smeared some silicone all over the front of the coils and around where the wires go into them. Out of 4 coils... all four of them had that crack there, so I just used the best looking ones.

I had a question about the final drive though. It's the 750 final drive. If I tip the drive forward, gear oil comes out of the unit where the driveshaft goes. I was thinking we sealed this off with that washer and some RTV when we installed it... but that was a couple of years ago. Do I need to take back off the front part and redo this?


Tod

[DGXSER]

I just got a 750FD for another member and noticed some leakege there. So I removed the washer and all and looked it over, cleaned it all up and re-RTVd everything. then set it up so the input was low end. Still had oil leak. very little though. But being a perfectionist and a worry wart about something I am planning to do to someone elses bike, I had to convince myself it was ok.

Now when I took off the washer with the setup RTV, the input shaft piece came off with it. Not the pinion gear,the piece that meshes with the splines of it and actually engages the drive shaft. It actually just pushes on into an oil seal and the washer/spacer and nut hold it on. Since it all turns as one piece, I put it back on and then smeared RTV generously around where the splines meet up of the two pieces and then also in the holes and the washer as the tech tip shows.

my theory is that this is not intended to be an oil tight seal and it is not constructed to be one. In normal use and position oil is only slung up there at best and not pressured into there such that it would leak. My RTV may be overkill, but it can not hurt anything and it settled my mind that I was not putting a problem on someone elses bike.

[trbig]

When I dropped the final drive, there was some gear oil in there around the teeth where the driveshaft goes. I thought maybe it was a seal that had been knocked out from the u-joint in the middle drive because there was some up in the boot also, but everything on the middle drive seemed dry, and the middle drive oil is new.. while the final drive oil has @ 20k miles on it.. this was definately the older oil. How it got clear up into the boot??? (Note to self.. quit trying to do stoppies..)

Anyway, I don't like that gear oil diluting the good grease I put in the meshing teeth of the driveline and final drive. It never leaked before. Could the wobbling u-joint knocked out the seal down there?


Tod

[DGXSER]

Does not seem correct that you had gear oil up that far. Maybe I should check on mine...

I do not doubt your u-joint wobbling around could have caused the other end of the drive shaft to move around as well and caused leakage at that seal or even a failure of it.

[Ivan]

The 750/850 FD had two holes in the coupler that let gear oil grease the splines. The drive shaft had a seal around it that engaged the opening of the coupler to keep the gear oil in the right place. On the 1100, the splines are greased with a zerk, which is absolutely worthless, as we all know. The coupler didn't have the two holes, and the internal splines were extended to the end of the coupler, so a shorter drive shaft was used.

If you are leaking a bit from the coupler, it very well could be that the silicone has started to leak. IIRC the washer was traded from the 11 FD since it is larger and covers the holes. Maybe pull it loose and check the seal.

This may all be review, and I may have read the question wrong, if so, move along, nothing to see here....

[XSokieSPECIAL]

The vibration may have caused the f/d input seal to leak a bit. I've seen that happen in automotive axle seals. I just went and checked my old f/d and there is some latteral play in the input anyway.

As far as oil in the boot, it probably just crawled up the drive shaft as it was turning. IMHO I wouldn't worry about it unless your f/d was dangerously low on oil. Stoppies don't help either!

[DGXSER]

Well here is my stock XS11 FD.



And here is the seal where the collar meets the pinion, no such seal on an XS750 FD.



I’m sure that is because the 750 this is a wet area so to speak so no seal is needed. Now I am convinced the RTV I put at this juncture on the other members 750 FD is the answer to this issue and plan to recheck mine this winter.

[XSokieSPECIAL]

I don't understand the seal you're trying to show in the second pic. The one I'm talking about is the one that is in the plate the input passes through.

If that dosesn't appear to be where it's leaking then disregard what I've said.

When I did my f/d I used hardening gasket maker and filled those lubricating holes up with it, and also under the washer. I haven't seen any sign of leakage but I will check when I replace the back tire next spring.

[DGXSER]

I don't understand the seal you're trying to show in the second pic. The one I'm talking about is the one that is in the plate the input passes through.

If that dosesn't appear to be where it's leaking then disregard what I've said.

I think what your referring to is the seal on the 750/850 FD, the drive shaft has a seal that rides against the area above the splines shown in those photos. On the 750/850 FD those splines stop lower inside that adaptor which is the reason for the spacer in the swap.

What I have photos of here is the XS11 FD, if you look in the second photo you will see at the base of the threaded shaft which is the end of the pinion shaft, a black ring that is under the washer and nut in the first photo so you do not see it. That seals the gear oil from coming out of the junction where the splines on the pinion shaft mesh with the female splines on the adaptor.

On the 750/850FD the entire area shown there would be wet with FD gear oil there is no need for a seal there. So I think we need to make one of RTV. Now it is possible that if you slop enough RTV around the inside edge of the washer it will get pushed in there and make that seal anyway. I had not accounted for the need to seal there with mine and only put enough to seal around the two holes shown in the tech tip. On the 750FD I just did for a fellow member, I took the washer out and then cleaned everything up really well. Then I put RTV in the holes and put a generous amount around the junction of the pinion shaft splines and the adaptor where the seal is shown on the XS11 FD. Then put more RTV on the bottom of the washer and put that in with the nut on until the RTV just squeezed out a bit. Let it sit about an hour and went back and torqued the nut down good and tight.

When we pulled the wheel off the receiving bike a number of days later we final torqued the bolt and put the FD on.

[XSokieSPECIAL]

DG, I understand about the seal on the driveshaft, and the spacer. I've done the F/D swap.

I was referring to the seal in the PLATE that that has the 4 bolt holes in it that the pinion/input shaft goes through. But it doesn't sound like that is the problem.

JAT

[DGXSER]

Ahhh...ok. No, I do not think that is the issue. I am not actually certain there is an issue. In order to see a leak in the last 750FD I put in, I had to point the input shaft downward with gear oil in the drive. Not a typical senario really.

The gear coupling (as it is called inthe shaft drive manual) is narrower on the end that goes into the FD and has a seal that it slides into. That makes the seal to keep fluid in that end. Same thing is on both the 11 and the 750/850 FDs. The leak point I believe Tod referred to and I have seen is where the pinion shaft that the washer slides over and the nut threads onto, slides through the gear coupling.