Beginning to hate the rain

[trbig]

Hmmmm..

Looking at the Yamaha parts list, the 78/79 XS750 has one part number, and 80 XS850 has another, and the '81 850 has yet ANOTHER different part number?


Tod

[XSokieSPECIAL]

Hmmmm..

Looking at the Yamaha parts list, the 78/79 XS750 has one part number, and 80 XS850 has another, and the '81 850 has yet ANOTHER different part number?


Tod

That is because the parts you had a problem with are different.

It's because of the bearing preload setup. The 750 uses the shim adjustment for the pinion, 850 uses the crush sleeve. Much more forgiving.

[DGXSER]

I have purchased two 79 750 FDs. Both have been the Type II, with the phillips head and the crush sleeve. When you remove the nut there is just the one washer, no spacer to set the preload.

I believe the Type II started in 79, but I am not certain. I would ask the seller to verify if that phillips head screw is in there, that is the external indicator of the Type II.

I have not seen first hand (out of a bike) an 850 FD but they should all be the Type II.

[trbig]

Well.. Got the bike all back together tonight. I gotta say thank you again to Tarzan who supplied me a "Newsed" 750 final drive in great shape that is the type 2 talked about.

I went to start the bike and apparently one of the coils is crap. I swapped mine out with a set off of one of the parts bikes because they LOOKED better.. Man, those things are a PITA to get to with this fairing and stuff in the way. Oh well.. gotta do what I gotta do. Backup the play book a few pages.

Tod

[trbig]

Found out the coils are fine, but the installer is an idiot. I thought the coils from the left side went to 1 and 3 and the right one to 2 and 4. Ummm.. Nope. lol. When I installed them correctly... left one to 1/4 and right one to 2/3, it ran fine. The middle drive I swapped out has a bit of a whine to it. I don't think it likes the old gears I threw it in there with. It's going to learn to like it, or I'll throw the other middle drive back on for my trip.

I took it out tonight for a little jaunt of @ 100 miles, and things seem fine. It's in the mid/low 40's tonight, and I had enough layers on that it made for a really nice ride.

You know how you're supposed to take things easy a bit when on a test run? Umm. .yeah, not so much. lol. The clutch slip is gone, and the new 750 final drive will wheelie just fine! The vibration I had is gone and the bike runs smooth up to the quick 120 I ran it up to.

The new bulb I bought off Ebay.. supposed to be 90/130 watt.. I was really disappointed in. I believe my stock 55/60 watt bulb is just as bright if not MORE so. Going to write the guy tomorrow. I need to take it by the carwash now and see if this extra heat shrink on the wires helps with the wet issues I was having..


Tod

[XSokieSPECIAL]

Found out the coils are fine, but the installer is an idiot. I thought the coils from the left side went to 1 and 3 and the right one to 2 and 4. Ummm.. Nope. lol. When I installed them correctly... left one to 1/4 and right one to 2/3, it ran fine.

RTFM

The middle drive I swapped out has a bit of a whine to it. I don't think it likes the old gears I threw it in there with. It's going to learn to like it, or I'll throw the other middle drive back on for my trip.

I didn't like the way mine whined either. I put 75/140 Royal Purple synthetic in my middle and final drives and it's virtually stopped whining.

[DGXSER]

I put 75/140 Royal Purple synthetic in my middle and final drives and it's virtually stopped whining.

If we could only figure out what would work on you guys!! You need some cheese!!! (To go with your whine!)

[oseaghdha]

.............

The new bulb I bought off Ebay.. supposed to be 90/130 watt.. I was really disappointed in. I believe my stock 55/60 watt bulb is just as bright if not MORE so. Going to write the guy tomorrow. I need to take it by the carwash now and see if this extra heat shrink on the wires helps with the wet issues I was having..


Tod

The biggest problem is the wiring. Too many connections, switches and other codswallop in the circuit.
If you were to check the juice at the light plug, I doubt it's capable of generating 130W.
When I put my Cibie in, I ran 10GA from the battery along with a big fat GND up to the fairing and added relays. Basically, I'm just using the OEM wiring for signal to the relays. It throws a lot of fire with a 65/75 bulb.

[trbig]

Hey Dan...

Could you detail me better what you've done with your wiring to the headlight? I don't need.. and don't even have the headlight switch thing on it now (It's morning and I haven't had my coffee.. the name eludes me) When I turn the key on, the headlight comes on whether running or not. Just not sure I want to go re-soldering things at the hi/low switch itself.


Tod

[oseaghdha]

Tod,
What I did was:
Bypass the RLU, otherwise it thinks the light is burned out.
I used this method.
I tried the update at the bottom, but that causes the HI and LO to both be on at the same time. More light but terrible glare when you don't want it. Not recommended. My HI beam indicator works fine. I still have the normal headlight relay in place and functioning. i.e. the light comes on after the engine starts. Keep in mind this is on a '79 Special, so YMMV.

Then I ran a fused 10GA line from the hot side of the battery(actually from the solenoid lug), and a 10GA GND up the frame to the fairing, straight thru to a pair of relays(30). One for HI beam, and one other for LO beam. At that point I chopped into the fairing wiring, at the headlight plug, and took the HI and LO wires and ran them to the respective relays for the sense or trigger(86). The GND wire runs to the headlight plug along with the output from the relays(87). I used the fairing GND for the relays(85) because it's not going to affect the light. I got an unwired headlight plug and made up my own wiring rom the relays to the light using 10GA.
I mounted the relays inside the fairing, so the only thing added on the frame is the extra wires. It's not much fun working inside the pocket area, but it is possible. While I was at it I tapped off and added a 12V plug for my cell phone charger, or whatever else.

I made up a jumper plug for the RLU so everything can easily be removed and returned to OEM. All plugs, lugs and splices were soldered. I used no butt connections.

My goal was to avoid any voltage drop caused by connections and switches, so as to get max voltage to the headlight. The tortured path of the OEM wiring is the cause of most crappy motorcycle lights IMO. Adding the fairing just made it that much worse. My light was pathetic to the point that I did not want to go anywhere dark.

See this for basic idea. It's an automotive application but the idea is the same. Just pay attention to the "Right High/Low" wiring.

[trbig]

If we could only figure out what would work on you guys!! You need some cheese!!! (To go with your whine!)

Hmmm.. It was 19 degrees when I left out for work this morning ON THE BIKE. Come go for a ride with me, and we'll see who the first one to open that bottle of WHINE will be. Tomorrow is supposed to be 13 or 14... can you be here by then?

Tod

[XS1100 Newbie]

It was 13 out here today on the west coast. I quit tying to ride in this stuff. I don't have the clothes for this. BRRRRRRRR

[DGXSER]

Hmmm.. It was 19 degrees when I left out for work this morning ON THE BIKE. Come go for a ride with me, and we'll see who the first one to open that bottle of WHINE will be. Tomorrow is supposed to be 13 or 14... can you be here by then?

Tod

I prefer a Merlot myself!! I had enough trouble with 30-40 something!!

[XSokieSPECIAL]

Hmmm.. It was 19 degrees when I left out for work this morning ON THE BIKE. Come go for a ride with me, and we'll see who the first one to open that bottle of WHINE will be. Tomorrow is supposed to be 13 or 14... can you be here by then?

Tod

You are either crazy or a masochist. Uhhhh.......... never mind.

It was 13 out here today on the west coast. I quit tying to ride in this stuff. I don't have the clothes for this. BRRRRRRRR

I feel ya!!

[trbig]

Hmmm.. Guess this means I can't talk you into goin cross country with me in a little over a week, huh? I can strap a really nice vintage of Merlot in a BOX onto the bike to warm you up along the way.. lol.

You are either crazy or a masochist.

Ehh... Just not all Okies are big (Rhymes with wussies!) lol.


My hands were a bit cold, but I have a solution for that for my trip that just came in the mail today. My boots are lined and warm and I'm going to throw one of those little air activated heating pad things in the toe of each of them. I got 30 of them off Ebay for $3.. lol. With my pants and some insulated Carhart coveralls, my legs were just about right. On my upper body, I had a long john top with a short sleeve t-shirt, a balaclava, my mesh riding jacket and liner over that and another rain jacket over that to help block the wind, and I actually got too warm and started sweating around my collar... not a good thing in the cold.

My new helmet lets too much air in and I'm going to have to do something about that. It keeps the shield clear of fog, but my nose couldn't take a long trip like that. I may have to use my old helmet for the trip if I can't figure a way to cut down the wind some.

I have over-shoes that go over the boots up to about the high calf for keeping my boots dry if it rains,(Rain Booties) along with some rain pants I can put on over the coveralls to block the wind if I get cold, and the rain.

For my hand solution that I mentioned, I ordered these and just got them in.

Handlebar Mitts

I'm sure they will look ugly, but when your hands are warm and dry on a long trip.... who cares. They look to be VERY well made and don't fit tight like the pic shows. There isn't any danger of getting caught in them if the bike goes down. I just needed something. Wind driven rain will eventually get into the best waterproof gloves.

Tod