Beginning to hate the rain

[DGXSER]

or is my problem likely all in my wires and caps?

I think we all know your problems run WAY deeper than that!!

[Incubus]

Here's one place, but I would check locally and try to save shipping....

http://www.parkeryamaha.com/ngksparkplugwiresplice.aspx

[trbig]

Yeah, I saw it there and at Dennis Kirk.. but I got to thinkin'. (Dangerous.. I know) Since I already have the heat shrink, I'm going to try it along with trimming the ends of the wires and re-installing the old caps. If I still have problems, I'll try something else, but I'm not going to spend money on the other stuff unless this doesn't work.


Tod (Cheap-azz)

[Incubus]

FWIW, I used electrically resistant heat shrink I picked up at Home Depot on the wires from the front turn signals on my VT1100. I still had to keep them separated because it they touched they would short out, even with the heat shrink. But since you already have it, give it a shot. Maybe the stuff you have it better than the stuff I have.

BTW, if I were splicing spark plug wires, I probably would go aahead and get Dyna copper core wires. It's $20 for a set of four, but they are very good quality. I will grant you, however, that the spark plug wire I have used i the past I picked up at a local dirt bike shop for about 75 cents a foot.

You could always try picking up some vinyl tubing and running your wires through that....

Patrick

[xs11bobber]

Tod,

Plug caps molded onto the wires? Are you sure it's not just the weather gaurd that goes over the wire and cap joint?

I'm all for that heat shrink idea. I think if you pull back that exterior rubber piece a little you'll find that the cap just unscrews like "newer" models. It should be able to slide up and down the wire, but may be hard to move. Clip back the wire 1/4"-1/2" and screw the cap back on. Then you spend $0 and have to go NOWHERE! lol. HTH

[trbig]

You could always try picking up some vinyl tubing and running your wires through that....

I don't think regular vinyl tubing would withstand the heat. The heat shrink I got is double walled and a service temp rating from -67 degreees to 257 degrees after you shrink it and guaranteed to stay flexible. I don't think it will get that hot over the valve cover. Also, I bought 20 feet of it, so I was planning on doing as many layers over the wires as I could.

Like I said, maybe it will work and maybe it won't, but might as well try it. The heat shrink was a whole $10 off Ebay with free shipping, so not much to lose by trying.


Tod

[trbig]

Started putting on a layer of heat shrink. When I got the heat close to the coil, I saw a few little bubbles come out of a crack right here.






Assuming that probably isn't going to help things with moisture getting in there... so gotta swap at least this one. Could you just smear some rtv or something over a crack like that?


Tod

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Tod,

Yeah, I'd slather a bunch of RTV all around the wire end and the coil body. When I put my new MikesXS coils and wires together, I slathered a bunch of clear rtv all around the joint and wire to try to help prevent water seapage getting into the connections and such!

T.C.

[XJOK2PLAY]

Hey, Tod...

Are the coils & wires that are on that recent parts XJ you just bought any good?

[trbig]

Are the coils & wires that are on that recent parts XJ you just bought any good?

??? I don't know. I'm going to use one from the 1st parts bike I got. If it doesn't work, I'll try the coils off the 2nd parts bike. If THAT doesn't work, I'll try them off this third bike... lol.


Sounds like a good idea TC. I was able to get 4 layers of heat shrink on the wires of the first coil I swapped out. Got busy with some other stuff and haven't been able to work much on it tonight. No rush though, I think the bike is going to be down for a bit until I get my list of things done before my trip next month.

-Middle drive had quite a bit of metal on the magnetic drain plug when I changed out my u-joint, so I'm going to go ahead and swap that out with another good low mileage one I have. Going to go ahead and swap out the drive shaft also. It had some pretty good wear marks on it from the teeth of the final drive. Can't imagine what's putting so much pressure on those gears?

-Change the oil and final drive oil

-I saw a wire splice I'd made going to the reg/rect unit I need to adress again.

-Put the new 3-point crash bars on.

-Polish up another alternator cover and replace it with this one that got gouged up when I wrecked. Check/change brushes if needed. Swap out right side pegs for same reason.

-Change out cam adjuster with the self adjusting type Ivan wrote about.

-Find something to wrap up my cracked muffler with that doesn't look too terrible for now.

-Change out my clutch basket. It feels kind of jerky on takeoff. Pretty sure the discs have notched up the sides of the basket. Gonna put in another set of new springs.

-If the current project doesn't fix my wet short, then other steps to fix that.


Sure I'll find something else along the way.


Tod

[DGXSER]

Wow Tod,

Your list is longer than mine to finsih the project bike...

[Schming]

Suggestion...

"P.S. Oh.. and what's the best tire and oil to use for insulation against this grounding?? lol."
__________________
Steel belted radials are what you would want to avoid for conductivity reasons OC I'd go with bias ply Also this http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Transformer_oil may work for ya Why can't You just use rubberized undercoating on your valve cover? Problem solved

[XSokieSPECIAL]

??? I don't know. I'm going to use one from the 1st parts bike I got. If it doesn't work, I'll try the coils off the 2nd parts bike. If THAT doesn't work, I'll try them off this third bike... lol.


Sounds like a good idea TC. I was able to get 4 layers of heat shrink on the wires of the first coil I swapped out. Got busy with some other stuff and haven't been able to work much on it tonight. No rush though, I think the bike is going to be down for a bit until I get my list of things done before my trip next month.

-Middle drive had quite a bit of metal on the magnetic drain plug when I changed out my u-joint, so I'm going to go ahead and swap that out with another good low mileage one I have. Going to go ahead and swap out the drive shaft also. It had some pretty good wear marks on it from the teeth of the final drive. Can't imagine what's putting so much pressure on those gears?

-Change the oil and final drive oil

-I saw a wire splice I'd made going to the reg/rect unit I need to adress again.

-Put the new 3-point crash bars on.

-Polish up another alternator cover and replace it with this one that got gouged up when I wrecked. Check/change brushes if needed. Swap out right side pegs for same reason.

-Change out cam adjuster with the self adjusting type Ivan wrote about.

-Find something to wrap up my cracked muffler with that doesn't look too terrible for now.

-Change out my clutch basket. It feels kind of jerky on takeoff. Pretty sure the discs have notched up the sides of the basket. Gonna put in another set of new springs.

-If the current project doesn't fix my wet short, then other steps to fix that.


Sure I'll find something else along the way.


Tod

Dammit Tod,

I hope the "what ain't broke" list is longer.

[XJOK2PLAY]

Greg,
Wanna know what's wild??? You oughta watch him FLY on that old heap sometime... It's unbelievable... not only his riding abilities, but that old bike hauls azz!!!! His is way more dependable than mine, too... it may not be all clean & pretty, but dang that bike runs... especially in the twisties!

Guess that's the price ya pay though when you ride 'em hard...

(Now ya know why he knows so dang much about 'em too...)

EXPERIENCE!

[trbig]

but dang that bike runs... especially in the twisties!

Naw... you were just behind Bohn and it SEEMED like it... lol.


Tod