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Camshaft dot position relative to the T

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  • Camshaft dot position relative to the T

    Rather than filling the tank and testing the bike, I thought I would take a look at the position of the cams before I put it all back together. When cylinders 1 and 4 are at dead top the dot on the cams was about an eighth of an inch off center. Since I had already ruined the gasket, I thought I would fix it. And now it is fixed. Tada!

    My question is... would that 1/8 of an inch have caused problems or is it too little to really care about? It is a moot point, now that it is fixed, but it would be good to know.

    Also, can I use Permatex high temp to make a new gasket, or should I wait for a new gasket to arrive. Funds are tight at the moment, which is the main reason I ask.
    Sam Christensen
    The Chronicles of my Rebuild http://xs1100rebuild.blogspot.com

    --------------------------------------------------------
    If you are leading and no one is following, maybe your just taking a walk.

    Currently bikeless. Sold my 1980 XS1100 Special

  • #2
    Sam,

    As to the gasket, yeah you can use the permatex type gasket for the valve cover.

    As to the 1/8", I am curious how you fixed it to help determine the answer to your question.
    Life is what happens while your planning everything else!

    When your work speaks for itself, don't interrupt.

    81 XS1100 Special - Humpty Dumpty
    80 XS1100 Special - Project Resurrection


    Previously owned
    93 GSX600F
    80 XS1100 Special - Ruby
    81 XS1100 Special
    81 CB750 C
    80 CB750 C
    78 XS750

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    • #3
      I pulled the cover, manually rotated the timing plate to the "T" making sure the 1 & 4 Cylinders were dead top first. I stuffed the holes with rags to avoid any nut dropage. Then I removed the sprockets from the cams and carefully and evenly loosed the cam caps. I rotated the camshafts so that the dot lined up. I tightened the cam caps, slowly and evenly and torqued them down. Then having stuffed the holes with rags again, I bolted the sprockets to the cams, checked the dot again and rotated the engine a few times in the correct direction to make sure that the dots lined up after a few rotations. When they did, I covered everything to keep out the dust and came in for the evening.
      Sam Christensen
      The Chronicles of my Rebuild http://xs1100rebuild.blogspot.com

      --------------------------------------------------------
      If you are leading and no one is following, maybe your just taking a walk.

      Currently bikeless. Sold my 1980 XS1100 Special

      Comment


      • #4
        For the gasket, what would work better, Permatex Ultra Black High-temp or the Yamabond #4 that I used to seal the cases?
        Sam Christensen
        The Chronicles of my Rebuild http://xs1100rebuild.blogspot.com

        --------------------------------------------------------
        If you are leading and no one is following, maybe your just taking a walk.

        Currently bikeless. Sold my 1980 XS1100 Special

        Comment


        • #5
          I like to use permetex Right Stuff gasket ... works REALLY good better than high temp
          Austin Ingalls

          MIDNIGHT FURY
          1979 XS1100 Special [Full Restore Project]
          XJ maxim rear air shocks
          KERKER 4-into-1 exhaust
          Pod Filters

          Money pit.......
          BLACKED OUT

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          • #6
            Use the yamabond, but oil the head side. That way the head will be clean, and the valve cover is OFF for the cleaning!
            Ray Matteis
            KE6NHG
            XS1100 E '78 (winter project)
            XS1100 SF Bob Jones worked on it!

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by digitalsam View Post
              For the gasket, what would work better, Permatex Ultra Black High-temp or the Yamabond #4 that I used to seal the cases?
              hylomar works best
              careful what you wish for.........you might get it

              Comment


              • #8
                Digital - Have the sprockets been off the cams before? I just went through something similar with another members bike - the dots just didn't want to line up. I wound up putting a degree wheel on it, and made things more complicated than they needed to be. If the sprockets haven't been off the cams all you should have to do is put the timing mark on the 'T' and get the dots as close as you can to the pointers. As the chain stretches the dots are going to move around a little anyway.
                I think I have a loose screw behind the handlebars.

                '79 XS11 Standard, Jardine 4/1, Dyna DC1-1 Coils, 145 mains, 45 pilots, plastic floats - 25.7mm, XV920 fuel valves, inline fuel filters, speed bleeders, Mikes XS pods, spade-type fuse block, fork brace, progressive fork springs/shocks, manual petcocks, 750 FD, Venture cam chain tensioner, SS brake lines

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by dbeardslee View Post
                  Have the sprockets been off the cams before?
                  Yup, when I tore the engine down completely.

                  Originally posted by dbeardslee View Post
                  the dots just didn't want to line up.
                  Mine seemed to set right in, I didn't know if it would be an issue with the valves opening prematurely or postmaturely (doubt that is a word). Anyway, I got them to line up perfectly. Not sure what I did differently this time.

                  Originally posted by dbeardslee View Post
                  As the chain stretches the dots are going to move around a little anyway.
                  Wont that cause the pre/post valve opening issue?
                  Sam Christensen
                  The Chronicles of my Rebuild http://xs1100rebuild.blogspot.com

                  --------------------------------------------------------
                  If you are leading and no one is following, maybe your just taking a walk.

                  Currently bikeless. Sold my 1980 XS1100 Special

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Wont that cause the pre/post valve opening issue?
                    I'm sure they allowed for it in the design. As the chain stretches the dots move slightly 'away' from each other (as you view it from on-top). There's no way to keep it from doing that other than not running it. I was curious why you moved the sprockets, but if they were off the cams it makes sense that they may have needed tweaked. The arrows on the bearing caps are not the most precise measuring device there is, but it's still nice to have everything pointing where it should. Is the cam chain new?
                    I think I have a loose screw behind the handlebars.

                    '79 XS11 Standard, Jardine 4/1, Dyna DC1-1 Coils, 145 mains, 45 pilots, plastic floats - 25.7mm, XV920 fuel valves, inline fuel filters, speed bleeders, Mikes XS pods, spade-type fuse block, fork brace, progressive fork springs/shocks, manual petcocks, 750 FD, Venture cam chain tensioner, SS brake lines

                    Comment

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