Ok, how to fix the clutch actuator

[cywelchjr]

Ok, I did find that my clutch was put together wrong. I can't find any damage and I carefully put it together following the breakdown from the manual. However, I can't get the actuator to work properly. I can tell it's not right, but I'm not sure how to make sure it's right before I put the clutch cover on and such. I think if I can lick this it's back on the road (and I am so looking forward to being able to ride again.)

What to do? This clutch thing is kicking my butt. I just want to get it back on the road, the engine seems to be running good, I got the airbox back on and all (but if I have to pull the carbs again I AM going to go to pod filters and rejet).

[Incubus]

The clutch actuator has three ball bearings in the inside mechanism. When the clutch is engaged, those ball bearings sit in depressions. Disengaging the clutch rolls the ball bearings out of the depressions and pushes the peg into the clutch pack assembly. That's about it. Pull outward on the exterior clutch arm assembly to keep the interior assembly flush and move the arm and you will see what I mean. If it is not working, make sure you have all three ball bearings in the interior assembly.

It is helpful, when installing the clutch cover, to make sure the actuator assembly in the the engaged position (all the way back and the ball bearings in the depressions) and pull out on the actuator arm to hold everything flush to the case until the clutch cover is seated completely.

As for the carbs and air filter thing, only switch to pods if you want to use pods, not for ease of reassembly. It's a lot easier to mount the stock air box than mess with jetting. To make it easier, take off the lower half of the air box and then loesen the four screws holding the brackets on the top of the air box (don't take them out or overloosen them. They are a pain to get back in). This will allow you to move the top mounting bracket off of the mount. Push the air box down and you can get the carbs off.

After you take off the carbs 12 or 15 times it gets to be pretty easy. I can go from a fully assembled bike to carbs-on-the-bench in less than 20 minutes. I've had to do it a lot.

Patrick

[mro]

To see assembly order go here

http://www.yamaha-motor.com/sport/parts/home.aspx

Follow instructions to get to your year/model, then select clutch

Does not show the three ball bearings but they are located at item #24


mro

[mro]

BTW
When it is in the clutch case, the little arm that the cable attaches to should face forward, slightly lower than the 3 o'clock position, then attach the cable and spring.


mro

[motoman]

+1 what Succubus says.........got it down to less than 15min. Think that beats the heck out of a jetting cluster, and it will perform better in all rpm ranges........trust us ole' timers on this one, specially on last part of my statement!

[Incubus]

My best time is about 12 minutes, but that was back when I was pulling the carbs on Succubus a lot searching for a stable idle.....

[cywelchjr]

To see assembly order go here

http://www.yamaha-motor.com/sport/parts/home.aspx

Follow instructions to get to your year/model, then select clutch

Does not show the three ball bearings but they are located at item #24


mro

Crap, I think that part #15 may have fallen out. Fortunately I have another of part #13 (pressure plate part 1) that should have that piece. I'll have to double checked on it, but I'm guessing I can get it together with what I know at this point. (fingers, toes and eyes crossed)

[cywelchjr]

Ok, part #15 is there, and from what I can tell the problem is that the clutch pack is not together right (I checked it at lunch time). I'm going to pull it again tonight and carefully put it together exactly like the exploded diagram shows, it should be good after that.

[Ivan]

My best time is about 12 minutes, but that was back when I was pulling the carbs on Succubus a lot searching for a stable idle.....

My best time with pods for a main rejet is 7 minutes from switch off to startup.

[skids]

Two other really important things.

Take care to mesh the gearing behind the clutch with the oil pumps gears (at least I think that is what that is).

Be careful hen tightening the star plate as they break easily.

Finally, if you have replaced your clutch components you will need to adjust the clutch because your old adjustment was for the worn clutch.

[cywelchjr]

Yep, that all worked out. Turned out that one of the steels had gotten out of position slightly because I didn't put a spring and bolt on the hold it together while I put it in. Once I replace the steel and reinstalled it I was able to quickly and easily adjust the clutch and it works good. The only slip I get is if I am on it hard going into gear, it slips for a sec before it grabs, I'm thinking that is normal behavior.

[CatatonicBug]

The only slip I get is if I am on it hard going into gear, it slips for a sec before it grabs, I'm thinking that is normal behavior.

Depends on what you think of as "normal". Mine does not slip at all, no matter what I do. If it slips, you might want to replace the clutch springs and/or add a steel to the clutch.

[cywelchjr]

Depends on what you think of as "normal". Mine does not slip at all, no matter what I do. If it slips, you might want to replace the clutch springs and/or add a steel to the clutch.

You know, I just happen to have 7 extra steels laying around doing nothing. Maybe I'll go ahead and put them in there? But, not for a while, I want to run it as is for a while and see how things go, as I suspect that even that may go away as the clutch pack beds in and I get the adjustment more dialed in.

[Incubus]

You might want to check the adjustment on the actuator peg. If you don't back it out sufficiently it may never totally relieve pressure on the clutch pack and cause it to slip a little. Loosen the lock nut, screw it in just until it touches and then back it out a quarter to half a turn. If it is not backed out enough it might still be applying a little pressure and preventing the clutch from releasing immediately. It would still grab eventually, but would slip some.

At least it something that is easy to try and costs nothing.

Patrick

[cywelchjr]

You might want to check the adjustment on the actuator peg. If you don't back it out sufficiently it may never totally relieve pressure on the clutch pack and cause it to slip a little. Loosen the lock nut, screw it in just until it touches and then back it out a quarter to half a turn. If it is not backed out enough it might still be applying a little pressure and preventing the clutch from releasing immediately. It would still grab eventually, but would slip some.

At least it something that is easy to try and costs nothing.

Patrick

I'm pretty sure that I got it set that way, but I'm going to be repeating the process a few more times. I know that when it's warmed up I have to make sure I really squeeze the clutch lever all the way in or it's hard to get into neutral. I expect over the next week or so I'll get it dialed in, and if it's not holding like I want it to, I open it up and add another steel to the pack. I've certainly got enough of them laying around now. Now if I could just get paid so I can get the sync gauges I need so I can do a real sync instead of the bench sync I'm running off now.