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Problem is, Bondo will not hold up to 400 F degrees. I was considering Lab Metal but would like a choice.
I thought the big thing was it needed to be metalic so a current can pass through it?
Tod
Try your hardest to be the kind of person your dog thinks you are.
You can live to be 100, as long as you give up everything that would make you want to live to be 100!
Current bikes:
'06 Suzuki DR650
*'82 XJ1100 with the 1179 kit. "Mad Maxim"
'82 XJ1100 Completely stock fixer-upper
'82 XJ1100 Bagger fixer-upper
'82 XJ1100 Motor/frame and lots of boxes of parts
'82 XJ1100 Parts bike
'81 XS1100 Special
'81 YZ250
'80 XS850 Special
'80 XR100
*Crashed/Totalled, still own
Please give us feedback on how the JB Weld holds up. I am expanding a tank at present and want to powdercoat same. Problem is, Bondo will not hold up to 400 F degrees. I was considering Lab Metal but would like a choice.
If you're doing the filling on the side cases not the head or cylinders, JB Weld or Marinetex will hold up. Neither are cheap but they will do the job...
Leaving the engine in the frame, did you mask the frame, if so how did you get the front of the engine painted, where the twin frame comes down near the header outlets, and how did you do the bits where the engine mounts are?
Cheers
Lou
Lou, I used lots of newspaper and like four different sizes of tape. I just painted the front of the frame the same color for now (because of the paint remover incident), the rest of the frame I masked/papered. It is pretty excessable to the front of the engine with the headers removed. You just have to move around from one side of the tire to the other. I actually did the left side of the engine one day, the right side the next and then the front side last. I also used this stuff called mask plus, which is a role of masking tape with 18 inch plastic sheeting on it. I put the masking lightly over the areas I had painted the day before and just followed the front fin lines. I have to do the back side of the engine still, but that will be pulling the carbs and tank off so thats for a snowy time of the year.
Just mask off the engine mounts and anything else you dont want painted or oversprayed on. Like I said, I used a lot of tape and I took my time. 2 hours of masking and like 20 minutes of painting on three different days.
Good luck and take your time, you'll be happy with the results.
Dan
Please give us feedback on how the JB Weld holds up. I am expanding a tank at present and want to powdercoat same. Problem is, Bondo will not hold up to 400 F degrees. I was considering Lab Metal but would like a choice.
I'd call the powder coating company and ask if JB Weld would work or if there are alternatives.
JB comes in different varieties, not all will go as high as 500.
I used JB because it was there and it should hold up for what I’m using it for. If the muff’s get to 500 degrees I don’t think I’ll be worry about the JB bondo job.
I'd call the powder coating company and ask if JB Weld would work or if there are alternatives.
JB comes in different varieties, not all will go as high as 500.
I used JB because it was there and it should hold up for what I’m using it for. If the muff’s get to 500 degrees I don’t think I’ll be worry about the JB bondo job.
mro
As far as I know, powder coat will only stick to metal. You would have to weld up any voids you want filled if you intend to have it powder coated.
Dupli-Color 500 degree engine enamel
Ford Semi-Gloss Black
Exhaust done with 1,200 degree "satin black".
Dents and a scrapes on the muffler filled and fitted with 500 degree JB Weld.
Stuffed plastic bags in head (tightly)
Left in spark plugs.
First pre-cleaned with carb cleaner.
Then pressure washed.
Then cleaned with laquer thinner and an assortment of brushes.
Rinsed with pressure washer.
Final rinse with ether.
Mro
BTW, could not help myself.
Polished the fins on the oil filter cover too
Current Rides: '82 XJ w/Jardine 4-1's, GIVI flyscreen, '97 Triumph Trophy 1200
Former Rides: '71 CB350, '78 400 Hawk, '75 CB550/4;
while in Japan: '86 KLR250, '86 VT250Z, '86 XL600R, '82 CB450(Hawk II), '96 750 Nighthawk, '96 BMW F650
And the angle of that shot is juuusst about where you need to be to see the filter cup. lol.
I shined mine all up one time, stood up to take a look, and thought to myself.. "Gee.. that was pointless!" I also got a stainless steel screw set for all the cases and covers. I put the oil pan ones on too since they were in the set. Yup... pretty much pointless also! lol.
Tod
Try your hardest to be the kind of person your dog thinks you are.
You can live to be 100, as long as you give up everything that would make you want to live to be 100!
Current bikes:
'06 Suzuki DR650
*'82 XJ1100 with the 1179 kit. "Mad Maxim"
'82 XJ1100 Completely stock fixer-upper
'82 XJ1100 Bagger fixer-upper
'82 XJ1100 Motor/frame and lots of boxes of parts
'82 XJ1100 Parts bike
'81 XS1100 Special
'81 YZ250
'80 XS850 Special
'80 XR100
*Crashed/Totalled, still own
I spent a bit of time on the exhaust.
Used a hand grinder with a wire wheel to remove surface rust, wire wheel on a hand drill to get hard to get spots. Even tho no one will ever see spots under/inside headers/collector etc. all rust was removed. Real PITA but I’m XSive . Ground down the real bad rust pits some, then used files to get it a little closer, Entire surface (including muff’s) sanded with 80 grit sand paper, then 100 grit.
Primed with a high temp adhesion promoter, then painted.
The jury’s still out on how long it will hold up.
Doubt that it will look as good as it does now a year after use, but as long as you don't let the rust come back it will be easy to repaint then with minimal prep needed.
If I had the money (any money ) I would take em to a powder coater and have it done with their high temp coating. There are some that can handle 1,000 to 1,200 degress now.
__________________
As far as I know, powder coat will only stick to metal
Don’t know limitations on powder coating.
Do know that it can be done to some plastics tho.
Ya know.. just in case someone stands on their head to look at your bike.. (OK.. so I have stainless float bowl screws.. so what!)
Tod
Try your hardest to be the kind of person your dog thinks you are.
You can live to be 100, as long as you give up everything that would make you want to live to be 100!
Current bikes:
'06 Suzuki DR650
*'82 XJ1100 with the 1179 kit. "Mad Maxim"
'82 XJ1100 Completely stock fixer-upper
'82 XJ1100 Bagger fixer-upper
'82 XJ1100 Motor/frame and lots of boxes of parts
'82 XJ1100 Parts bike
'81 XS1100 Special
'81 YZ250
'80 XS850 Special
'80 XR100
*Crashed/Totalled, still own
Ya know.. just in case someone stands on their head to look at your bike.. (OK.. so I have stainless float bowl screws.. so what!)
Tod
Or if you get rear ended on your scoot and it ends up laying on the side, at least you won't be embarassed about the nasty looking oil filter cover and rusted out float bowl screws. I hadn't taken the time for these details and, well, honestly, the pain made me not really care, but it would have been nice if someone would have said, "Hey that filter cover looks nice."
Or if you get rear ended on your scoot and it ends up laying on the side, at least you won't be embarassed about the nasty looking oil filter cover and rusted out float bowl screws. I hadn't taken the time for these details and, well, honestly, the pain made me not really care, but it would have been nice if someone would have said, "Hey that filter cover looks nice."
So, not to poke fun, but it's kind of like your mother always telling you to wear clean underwear.
Current Rides: '82 XJ w/Jardine 4-1's, GIVI flyscreen, '97 Triumph Trophy 1200
Former Rides: '71 CB350, '78 400 Hawk, '75 CB550/4;
while in Japan: '86 KLR250, '86 VT250Z, '86 XL600R, '82 CB450(Hawk II), '96 750 Nighthawk, '96 BMW F650
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