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  • Painting an Engine

    I'm about to pull the engine out and respray it, The bike is an 81 XS11 RH all Black.
    I'm going to use VHT Paint (High Temp) in a flat black, the worst area is around the head finns, does anyone have any tips on prep work or anything to look out for???? I'm thinking of using scrunched up foil to block the intakes and exhausts, and tape up other areas I don't want paint on.

    Any advise would be greatly appreciated???? Once that is done, I'll post some pics.

    Pics of before are here!!!

    http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread...meerr11&page=2


    Cheers

    Lou

    81 RH

  • #2
    Lou, I almost literally just got finished with painting my engine, here is some advice. For your exhaust take one of the old gaskets and a some card board and trace out round plugs to fit in. use something quarter sized for your spark
    plug holes. for your engine mount holes, foam ear plugs with tape on them work pretty good. Do not be afraid to waste tape when masking things off-like your breathers or anything else. Get some acid brushes and brush in between the fins and around the nut/bolt/screw heads. If you have access to compressed air when you doing this, that is better (Did I mention safety glasses?)
    When you go to spray inbetween the fins, use light coats spraying in straight, than change you angle from pointing slightly up and than next coat down (this will help you get paint in all the fins). Good luck and dont get too upset when you ding it up a little putting it back together.
    Dan
    Current Rides: '82 XJ w/Jardine 4-1's, GIVI flyscreen, '97 Triumph Trophy 1200
    Former Rides: '71 CB350, '78 400 Hawk, '75 CB550/4;
    while in Japan: '86 KLR250, '86 VT250Z, '86 XL600R, '82 CB450(Hawk II), '96 750 Nighthawk, '96 BMW F650

    Comment


    • #3
      If you want a little detail after it's painted, lightly sand off the paint on the end of the fins. Just my .02.
      http://www.myspace.com/i_give_you_power

      1980 XS11 Special - chopped, dropped and OCTY is still installed - NOW IT'S FOR SALE! $1,800 OBO


      Famous Myspace quote:

      "Don't mess with TEXAS! It's not nice to pick on retards."

      It's funny because I am from TEXAS!

      Comment


      • #4
        I agree w/ Jeremy... thet's how I did it. Sprayed the whole thing black, then sanded the fins. Same w/ the valve cover. Looks good.
        '82 XJ1100J Maxim (has been sold.)

        '79 F "Time Machine"... oh yeah, Baby.... (Sold back to Maximan)

        2011 Kaw Concours 14 ABS

        In the warden's words from Cool Hand Luke;
        "What we have here is a failure to communicate."

        Comment


        • #5
          One note on the sanding of the fins. You want the paint to cure (harden) before you do the sanding. Wait a week or so. Also, you can pull the tape of the areas you've masked within like 30 minutes. If you wait too much longer than that, the paint starts to set up and you may actually pull some of the paint off the engine.
          Dan
          Current Rides: '82 XJ w/Jardine 4-1's, GIVI flyscreen, '97 Triumph Trophy 1200
          Former Rides: '71 CB350, '78 400 Hawk, '75 CB550/4;
          while in Japan: '86 KLR250, '86 VT250Z, '86 XL600R, '82 CB450(Hawk II), '96 750 Nighthawk, '96 BMW F650

          Comment


          • #6
            Paint it black ...black as night... (RS all time best R&R band)

            Few weeks ago I pulled the carbs on this 79 SF, #3 was not firing.
            Pulled the bowls and found fine rust particles in em
            Have fixed the tank and cleaned the carbs etc...
            With em sitting on the bench they just looked sorta CRABBY
            So I decided to fix em up some.


            When I went to put em back on the bike they made the bike look CRABBY
            So this happened (removed the Vetter and installed a head light too)


            Then this happened


            mro
            moral of the story,
            be careful, as a carb cleaning can get out of control

            Comment


            • #7
              BTW, engine painting

              I sanded then polished the fins first.
              Then coated the edge of the fins with vasoline
              Painted, then about 30 minutes later carefully wiped (scraped with finger nail) the edge of the fins. Did the final drive too

              Then the front wheel looked pretty CRABBY
              and had to do it too. Sanded and polished first, but tapped it off.





              mro
              BTW II
              Made the goodie holding the wheel so I didn't have to.

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by barberad View Post
                Lou, I almost literally just got finished with painting my engine, here is some advice. For your exhaust take one of the old gaskets and a some card board and trace out round plugs to fit in. use something quarter sized for your spark
                plug holes. for your engine mount holes, foam ear plugs with tape on them work pretty good. Do not be afraid to waste tape when masking things off-like your breathers or anything else. Get some acid brushes and brush in between the fins and around the nut/bolt/screw heads. If you have access to compressed air when you doing this, that is better (Did I mention safety glasses?)
                When you go to spray inbetween the fins, use light coats spraying in straight, than change you angle from pointing slightly up and than next coat down (this will help you get paint in all the fins). Good luck and dont get too upset when you ding it up a little putting it back together.
                Dan
                Heya Dan,
                Thanks for the tips, when you say acid brushes, are you using something like thinners, or grease and wax remover? Now with the dinging it up, you have now given me the idea to check the shimms and do the cam chain, before I paint it.
                Dan & MRO is there a picture somewhere of the end results? and it is Flat black and not gloss correct?

                Cheers

                Lou

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by mro View Post
                  Then the front wheel looked pretty CRABBY
                  and had to do it too. Sanded and polished first, but tapped it off.
                  So does the back wheel look CRABBY?
                  http://www.myspace.com/i_give_you_power

                  1980 XS11 Special - chopped, dropped and OCTY is still installed - NOW IT'S FOR SALE! $1,800 OBO


                  Famous Myspace quote:

                  "Don't mess with TEXAS! It's not nice to pick on retards."

                  It's funny because I am from TEXAS!

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Dupli-Color 500 degree engine enamel
                    Ford Semi-Gloss Black

                    Exhaust done with 1,200 degree "satin black".
                    Dents and a scrapes on the muffler filled and fitted with 500 degree JB Weld.

                    Stuffed plastic bags in head (tightly)
                    Left in spark plugs.
                    First pre-cleaned with carb cleaner.
                    Then pressure washed.
                    Then cleaned with laquer thinner and an assortment of brushes.
                    Rinsed with pressure washer.
                    Final rinse with ether.

                    Mro
                    BTW, could not help myself.
                    Polished the fins on the oil filter cover too

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      So does the back wheel look CRABBY?

                      Actuall not too bad. Does need clean/polish.
                      Course once it's clean......


                      mro

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Please give us feedback on how the JB Weld holds up. I am expanding a tank at present and want to powdercoat same. Problem is, Bondo will not hold up to 400 F degrees. I was considering Lab Metal but would like a choice.
                        '81 1100 MNS - "Midnight XSpress"
                        Original except:
                        120 mains outer cylinders - 125 mains inner cylinders - Ceramic headers - Powder coated pipes, covers calipers, and MC's
                        4 pods - Air box gutted--E3 Plugs - High Back seat - Grooved out swing arm - SS brake lines
                        Fork brace - 160 speedo - Auto CCT
                        All gold paint and chrome replaced with GOLD plate

                        "STUPID is Forever" Ron White.
                        Contact me by PM -I don't deal with stupid anymore.

                        Big John

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by beemeerr11 View Post
                          Heya Dan,
                          Thanks for the tips, when you say acid brushes, are you using something like thinners, or grease and wax remover? Now with the dinging it up, you have now given me the idea to check the shimms and do the cam chain, before I paint it.
                          Dan & MRO is there a picture somewhere of the end results? and it is Flat black and not gloss correct?

                          Cheers

                          Lou

                          Acid brushes are just cheap disposable metal handled small paintbrushes about .5 cm wide. they come like 20-25 to a pack. Acetone/ nail polish remover is great for cleaning up the oily spots. The brass ones are good for the flaking paint.
                          (i'll try to post a couple of pictures later.)
                          BTW. I used high temp silver for mine.
                          Dan
                          Current Rides: '82 XJ w/Jardine 4-1's, GIVI flyscreen, '97 Triumph Trophy 1200
                          Former Rides: '71 CB350, '78 400 Hawk, '75 CB550/4;
                          while in Japan: '86 KLR250, '86 VT250Z, '86 XL600R, '82 CB450(Hawk II), '96 750 Nighthawk, '96 BMW F650

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            I painted mine in the frame, made the mistake of using paint remover (spray type) last year. Frame needs some work still. But I was one masking fool.



                            Saved the valve covers for hand polishing


                            Brushing out the fins and screw/bolt heads is a must.
                            Current Rides: '82 XJ w/Jardine 4-1's, GIVI flyscreen, '97 Triumph Trophy 1200
                            Former Rides: '71 CB350, '78 400 Hawk, '75 CB550/4;
                            while in Japan: '86 KLR250, '86 VT250Z, '86 XL600R, '82 CB450(Hawk II), '96 750 Nighthawk, '96 BMW F650

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by barberad View Post
                              Acid brushes are just cheap disposable metal handled small paintbrushes about .5 cm wide. they come like 20-25 to a pack. Acetone/ nail polish remover is great for cleaning up the oily spots. The brass ones are good for the flaking paint.
                              (i'll try to post a couple of pictures later.)
                              BTW. I used high temp silver for mine.
                              Dan
                              Hey Dan,

                              Leaving the engine in the frame, did you mask the frame, if so how did you get the front of the engine painted, where the twin frame comes down near the header outlets, and how did you do the bits where the engine mounts are?

                              Cheers
                              Lou

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