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It's leaking around the oil seal Idem #27 on parts diagram.Do I have to remove the bearing housing to replace the seal or can I just carefully pry out the old seal and tap in the new one? Thanks
Terry
Terry
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1980 special (Phyllis)
1196 10.5 to 1 kit,megacycle cams,shaved head,dynojet carb kit,ported intake and exhaust,mac 4 into 1 exhaust,drilled rotors,ss brake lines,pods,mikes xs green coils,iridium plugs,led lights,throttle lock,progressive shocks,oil cooler,ajustable cam gears,HD valve springs,Vmax tensioner mod -
IF that seal is even still available, it'd probably be cheaper, and DEFINATELY easier to just pick up another final drive. If you have the stock final drive, some of these guys that have done the 750/850 swap may have one cheap. Might be a good time for you to try one of those out also...?
Either way, I'd personally just replace the final drive. if you're sure it's not just grease getting slung out, or your vent tube spewing it a bit
TodTry your hardest to be the kind of person your dog thinks you are.
You can live to be 100, as long as you give up everything that would make you want to live to be 100!
Current bikes:
'06 Suzuki DR650
*'82 XJ1100 with the 1179 kit. "Mad Maxim"
'82 XJ1100 Completely stock fixer-upper
'82 XJ1100 Bagger fixer-upper
'82 XJ1100 Motor/frame and lots of boxes of parts
'82 XJ1100 Parts bike
'81 XS1100 Special
'81 YZ250
'80 XS850 Special
'80 XR100
*Crashed/Totalled, still own -
12.99 @ Bike Bandit.I like the lower gearing1980 special (Phyllis)
1196 10.5 to 1 kit,megacycle cams,shaved head,dynojet carb kit,ported intake and exhaust,mac 4 into 1 exhaust,drilled rotors,ss brake lines,pods,mikes xs green coils,iridium plugs,led lights,throttle lock,progressive shocks,oil cooler,ajustable cam gears,HD valve springs,Vmax tensioner modComment
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Anybody???
1980 special (Phyllis)
1196 10.5 to 1 kit,megacycle cams,shaved head,dynojet carb kit,ported intake and exhaust,mac 4 into 1 exhaust,drilled rotors,ss brake lines,pods,mikes xs green coils,iridium plugs,led lights,throttle lock,progressive shocks,oil cooler,ajustable cam gears,HD valve springs,Vmax tensioner modComment
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There is a link in the thread below for the final drive service manual in PDF. HTH. It appears to be just a tap in seal, so my guess would be that the unit would not require dissassembly. Good luck!
Last edited by bikerphil; 09-03-2009, 09:04 PM.2H7 (79) owned since '89
3H3 owned since '06
"If it ain't broke, modify it"
☮Comment
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I like the lower gearing
Hmmm.. And how many people have said that before until they actually tried one..
Your choice of course, but after a day or two, you'll never notice anything different on the bottom end, but you'll sure notice better cruising speed rpm. I don't see how anyone could LIKE the revs the motor is doing at 70-75 mph for hours.
TodTry your hardest to be the kind of person your dog thinks you are.
You can live to be 100, as long as you give up everything that would make you want to live to be 100!
Current bikes:
'06 Suzuki DR650
*'82 XJ1100 with the 1179 kit. "Mad Maxim"
'82 XJ1100 Completely stock fixer-upper
'82 XJ1100 Bagger fixer-upper
'82 XJ1100 Motor/frame and lots of boxes of parts
'82 XJ1100 Parts bike
'81 XS1100 Special
'81 YZ250
'80 XS850 Special
'80 XR100
*Crashed/Totalled, still ownComment
-
1980 special (Phyllis)
1196 10.5 to 1 kit,megacycle cams,shaved head,dynojet carb kit,ported intake and exhaust,mac 4 into 1 exhaust,drilled rotors,ss brake lines,pods,mikes xs green coils,iridium plugs,led lights,throttle lock,progressive shocks,oil cooler,ajustable cam gears,HD valve springs,Vmax tensioner modComment
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1980 XS850SG - Sold
1981 XS1100LH Midnight Special (Sold) - purchased 9/29/08
Fully Vetterized and Dynojet Kit added, Heated Grips, Truck-Lite LED headlight, Accel Coils, Irridium plugs, TKAT Fork Brace, XS850LH Final Drive & Black SS Brake lines from Chacal.
Here's my web page devoted to my bike! XS/XJ User's Manuals there, and the XJ1100 Service Manual and both XS1100 Service manuals (free download!).
Whether you think you can, or you think you cannot - You're right.
-H. FordComment
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Easy!!
Carefully pry out old seal.Grease inner and outer of new seal.Tap into place.Check fluid level and refill as needed.Done!20 minute repair.Just like replacing axle seal in my old 1/2 ton chevy.
Reassemble real wheel and brake.
Terry1980 special (Phyllis)
1196 10.5 to 1 kit,megacycle cams,shaved head,dynojet carb kit,ported intake and exhaust,mac 4 into 1 exhaust,drilled rotors,ss brake lines,pods,mikes xs green coils,iridium plugs,led lights,throttle lock,progressive shocks,oil cooler,ajustable cam gears,HD valve springs,Vmax tensioner modComment
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