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Front Master Cylinder assembly

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  • #1

    Front Master Cylinder assembly

    I finally got my master apart today and it was pretty bad. The rubber was fine so I decided to clean it up and slap it back together. It was working before I cleared the whole system (all krunked up) So it should be working fine... Did I reassemble wrong?

    Banjo/ Spring/ ]cup []Piston with ]cup/ Owasher/ Cspring clip
    I have both cups facing the banjo ]<---- and the steel cap on the spring is set into the first rubber cup.
    "There is a principle which is a bar against all information, which is proof against all arguments and which can not fail to keep a man in everlasting ignorance-that principle is contempt prior to investigation." --HERBERT SPENCER


    Active: 1932 Ford Model A; XS1100SF (Just got 'er); XS1100SG; 2000 F250 Turbo Diesel; 2003 Ford Mustang
    Broken: 1999 Kawi Vulcan 750; 1998 Triumph Trophy 1200
    Gonners: XS1100SF (my first ride); '82 Honda CB900F (bored to 1123cc); '86 Kawasaki ZG1000
    Tags: None
  • #2
    You've got it right. What are your symptoms? Did you bleed the system thoroughly? Even the tiniest bit of air in the system will kill it. Did you take the calipers apart too? No point in taking the MC apart if you don't do the calipers too. All that crud you found in the MC is ALSO in the calipers. Pay special attention to the groove the piston seal sits in. Crud stacks up in there under the seal and causes problems.
    1980 XS850SG - Sold
    1981 XS1100LH Midnight Special (Sold) - purchased 9/29/08
    Fully Vetterized and Dynojet Kit added, Heated Grips, Truck-Lite LED headlight, Accel Coils, Irridium plugs, TKAT Fork Brace, XS850LH Final Drive & Black SS Brake lines from Chacal.
    Here's my web page devoted to my bike! XS/XJ User's Manuals there, and the XJ1100 Service Manual and both XS1100 Service manuals (free download!).

    Whether you think you can, or you think you cannot - You're right.
    -H. Ford

    Comment

    • #3
      Amen to the calipers. I made that same mistake with the rear. Definately take the calipers down and at least clean everything. Bleed extremely well.
      1980 XS1100LG Midnight
      1991 Honda CBR1000F Hurricane


      "The hand is almost valueless at one end of the arm if there be not a brain at the other"

      Here's to a long life and a happy one.
      A quick death and an easy one.
      A pretty girl and an honest one.
      A cold beer and another one!

      Comment

      • #4
        I didn't rebuild the calipers but I flushed them with brake cleaner, there didn't seem to be much crunk built up on the banjo or coming out of the caliper. I plan on rebuilding everything later, including honing the cylinders out. Right now I just want to get it road worthy for cheap transportation until my income picks up.
        So the calipers were filled with fluid before reassembly, I have been using a mighty vac to try to bleed but really the mighty vac just sucks. I have absolutely no pressure buildup in the master. Noteworthy is that when you let off the lever, there is no blowback like there was before on the release.
        Thanks for your input guys...
        "There is a principle which is a bar against all information, which is proof against all arguments and which can not fail to keep a man in everlasting ignorance-that principle is contempt prior to investigation." --HERBERT SPENCER


        Active: 1932 Ford Model A; XS1100SF (Just got 'er); XS1100SG; 2000 F250 Turbo Diesel; 2003 Ford Mustang
        Broken: 1999 Kawi Vulcan 750; 1998 Triumph Trophy 1200
        Gonners: XS1100SF (my first ride); '82 Honda CB900F (bored to 1123cc); '86 Kawasaki ZG1000

        Comment

        • #5
          Cheap is easy for rebuilding the calipers. The only thing in there that affect function is the one "O-ring" (it is really square in shape) seal, and often it is reusable. The rest is dust sheild. Pull the caliper off the bike, use two screwdribers or c-clip pliers if you have them, and pull that ring off, it is just holding the rubber dust shield on. Then using oyur master cylinder if it is working, push the piston out of the caliper keeping an eye on your fluid so you don't suck air into the MC. Once the piston is out, you might be surprised at how much goo and gunk is in the bottom of that caliper. If the MC will not due it, then remove the banjo and use compressed air, but BE CAREFULL, DO NOT get anythign between the piston the caliper body that si not soft or that you do not want in multiple pieces. Namely your hand and or fingers. The piston can shoot out with ALOT of force. Another option is to use a grease gun on the bleeder and push it out that way, little messier to clean up though.

          Then remove the o-ring, and clean scrape the gunk off the ring and out of the groove in the caliper body. Get all the way in the corners REALLY good. Then put a little clean brake fluid on the o-ring and reinstall, then on the piston and put it back in. Add the dust shield and clip and remount the caliper. Cost = $0 if you have brake fluid.
          Life is what happens while your planning everything else!

          When your work speaks for itself, don't interrupt.

          81 XS1100 Special - Humpty Dumpty
          80 XS1100 Special - Project Resurrection


          Previously owned
          93 GSX600F
          80 XS1100 Special - Ruby
          81 XS1100 Special
          81 CB750 C
          80 CB750 C
          78 XS750

          Comment

          • #6
            You definitely need to take the time now to do the calipers (all 3 of them!!). As mentioned, it's free to do, except for some brake fluid. I used the compressed air method, and I just hold it in a trash can and close my eyes, and wait for the explosion! The gunk is UNDER the seal, and that is the #1 cause of caliper malfunction on these bikes. It may not be the cause of the current issue, but it needs to be done anyway, and is worth a shot.
            1980 XS850SG - Sold
            1981 XS1100LH Midnight Special (Sold) - purchased 9/29/08
            Fully Vetterized and Dynojet Kit added, Heated Grips, Truck-Lite LED headlight, Accel Coils, Irridium plugs, TKAT Fork Brace, XS850LH Final Drive & Black SS Brake lines from Chacal.
            Here's my web page devoted to my bike! XS/XJ User's Manuals there, and the XJ1100 Service Manual and both XS1100 Service manuals (free download!).

            Whether you think you can, or you think you cannot - You're right.
            -H. Ford

            Comment

            • #7
              Are you sure you got the spooge hole and all inside the master cylinder clean?
              It sounds like a restriction.Or possibly the plunger isn't sealing.
              80 SG XS1100
              14 Victory Cross Country

              Comment

              • #8
                not certain it's 100% clean but I plan on going back in and doing the job right once my master rebuild kits get here. I just needed to get 'er on the road.

                Wahooo!!!

                I just did it old-school style with pressure and opening the valve and it worked. Not great... but worked. Now that I've straightened out the headlight frame and the left holder I'm seeing that my forks aren't straight in the tree. I'll ride 'er to school on Saturday (200 mi round trip) and log any other things I notice.

                It's not going to be my old '79 SF but it'll take a while to get 'er to be all she can.
                "There is a principle which is a bar against all information, which is proof against all arguments and which can not fail to keep a man in everlasting ignorance-that principle is contempt prior to investigation." --HERBERT SPENCER


                Active: 1932 Ford Model A; XS1100SF (Just got 'er); XS1100SG; 2000 F250 Turbo Diesel; 2003 Ford Mustang
                Broken: 1999 Kawi Vulcan 750; 1998 Triumph Trophy 1200
                Gonners: XS1100SF (my first ride); '82 Honda CB900F (bored to 1123cc); '86 Kawasaki ZG1000

                Comment

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