eleven special welder bike

[Ralphdogg]

the bike took about 2 months to make. i do a lot of fabricating and body work so it wasn't a bad project. i am new with working on bike's, so it seemed like i had to redo a bunch of stuff over and over to make it look good. i am sure it will change again and again but for now i am just hoping to ride it. it looks like it is going to need fork seals, they are leaking pretty bad.

[DGXSER]

Turn Signals

Hey Ralph,

I believe I have read that changing to non stock, lower wattage turn signal lights does not go well with the stock flasher unit. Seems to me that it takes the wattage of the original bulbs to draw enough through it to make it flash. So, you will most likely need to go out and get another flasher unit, which will also most likely be the end of the self cancelling feature.

HTH

[CatatonicBug]

Hey Ralph,

I believe I have read that changing to non stock, lower wattage turn signal lights does not go well with the stock flasher unit. Seems to me that it takes the wattage of the original bulbs to draw enough through it to make it flash. So, you will most likely need to go out and get another flasher unit, which will also most likely be the end of the self cancelling feature.

HTH

This is exactly true. You'll need to replace the flasher unit with an electronic one, and you will lose the self-cancelling feature. The stock flasher requires the stock 27w (IIRC) bulbs to draw the proper load to make it flash. It's a safety feature that tells you when your signal bulb is out.

I really like the colors on this rebuild! It brings out the "vintage" aspect of the bike. At least the PO will NEVER know you're riding the bike he gave up!

[fredintoon]

i would like to get something smaller for the rear tail light or do exactly what you stated by removing the big light. right now i am having trouble getting the turn signals to blink. they work on the hazard switch but only stay on with the turn signal switch. i am pretty sire they are single filament bulbs and sealed inside the red plastic cover. i am going to mess with it today.
i am not sure what type the rear tire is but i know it's the stock size and dunlop brand, the local bike shop had a sale on tires and that's the tire they had for me. i know it was only $95.

Hi Ralph,
as has been posted, the stock flasher needs 2 x 27Watt load before it will flash. A lesser load (say a 27W stock front plus a 22W rear) will turn it on but won't flash it. The 4-way (obviously) works all 4 signal lamps so it isn't subject to the same low load condition even with 2 normal and 2 smaller bulbs.
A $7 2-pin electronic automotive flasher will work on almost no load but you lose the self-cancelling feature.
Clymer's says the stock rear light bulb is 27W/8W so bulbs are available to run stop/signal/tail lights. You can install the 27W/8W bulbs in suitable bulb sockets into those signal lights to make the conversion.

[Korr]

I cannot believe how quickly you turned it around! A f'ing-mazing job man!

[pinkelephant]

just a few changes goes a long way. sweet bike.

what size tires did you get?

[Ralphdogg]

thanks for all the positive input. i am really happy with the finished product. the green paint is just rattle can paint from the auto parts shop. i am not the best painter so i just used pray cans. i finally finished up the bike today on my day off. i went and got the 2 prong flasher and it worked. i also realized the headlight didn't work because the bike was not running. trial and error are my thing i guess. now i have to get inspection and a license plate. i have the stock turn relay and i am going to save it. it seems like it's a hard part to find, so i am sure someone will need it down the road.

the bike is a bit louder without the muffler and all i added was the washer inside to add back pressure. it's not obnoxious loud but i do think it would set off a few car alarms! i will try to get a video with sound soon. i have not played around with video clips much but i am sure it's won't be hard to upload.

[Ralphdogg]

just a few changes goes a long way. sweet bike.

what size tires did you get?

the tire size's are stock for the front and rear. luckily the front one was brand new (less than a few hundred miles) when i go the bike so i only had to buy a rear tire.

[Ralphdogg]

At least the PO will NEVER know you're riding the bike he gave up!

the guy that wrecked the bike, bought it from the original owner. he had only owned the bike for 3 months before wrecking it. so the bike must have been in great shape before he wrecked it. most of the parts were in awesome shape other than being bent and broken. after taking the bike apart i noticed that the original owner scribed his name all over the bike. i found at least 8 places where he scribed his name onto, even on the inside of the wheels and under the gas tank. it was pretty cool.

[tbishop11]

Nice work, you did a excellent job!

[skids]

Yep, it has my vote also.

[Ralphdogg]

finally back on the site and hopfully update my bike again soon. i am going to get the seat recovered and maybe add straight bars if i get the time. they apes are very comfy on long rides so i am still debating on removing them.

[1st bike]

stunning! great great great job! the seat has me a little confused. is that just a plate underneath the seat? just to cover up the top of the battery and the air filters? or did you do that for looks as well? and how does that look from the top. i have been trying to get that style seat on my bike, but i can't seem to figure how it's going to look. i would love to see pictures of that!

[Tropic-al]

Great job!!

Hey Ralph, I had the same problem with my centerstand as it hit the muffler of my SuperTrapp and did not go up to a full retracted position. Hence, it stayed down a bit and it did not take much leaning to the left for it to scrape. A friend came up with a great idea so I could keep it. It is hard to visualize when expresed in words, but as soon as I can take a picture and post it you will see the simplicity of it. Basically separate the right leg by cutting flush at the bar that connects across to both legs. You then weld a metal fitting from an air tool system to the bar and the quick release end fitting to the right leg. Logically, you cut that total dimension from the cross bar first. The right leg will be removed with the bolt and nut, but the left one stays attached as from factory pulled closed by the spring. You would have to put the bike on the side stand, kneel down by the right side, lower the left leg to the ground, click the fittings together then swing the right leg up to the frame support craddle, inserting the bolt from the back and attaching the nut. In 30 seconds you can attach/detach the right leg and have a fully functional stand. As it should be removed before riding, hand tightening the nut would be plenty. I certainly don't mind the work to have the piece of mind.
I know, you all are thinking WTF is he saying!!!
Well, you will just have to wait for the pictures before you nail me and the idea to the cross.

[fredintoon]

Hi Ralph,
the distance between gas stations once I get out of town is such that I decided to switch to a Standard tank on my Special.
You did a great salvage job on your Special tank but those whackin' great dents are still there under the bondo.
Looks to me like those dents reduce the tank's fuel capacity by a fair amount.
How much gas can you get in there?