750FD stupid question...

[oseaghdha]

Yeah, just remove the nut and flat washer.
Clean up around the lube holes and stick the larger washer down with RTV, plugging the holes in the process.

Tighten up the locknut.
I ran mine up to 70 ft/lb, but YMMV. I have no recommendation there.

You're done with that part.

Don't take out the screws and the pinion won't come out.

[John]

Guys, this so so easy even a caveman could do it. I'm gonna make it long n bitter.( Dan did it short n sweet) Ready? Drain the old gear oil from the 750 FD, and rinse it out with some solvent (breakclean) if you have some. If not, let it drip for a while. Whilst that is happening, you can remove the rear axle, and caliper from it's mount. Move the mount and torque plate out of the way. Now you can pull the wheel to the right side of the bike, away from the FD. Remove the shock from the FD and remove the four nuts holding the FD to the swing arm. Now the FD can be removed by sliding it off the S/A. Now focus on the drive shaft. Use some zip ties or even wire to wrap around the D/S just ahead of the drive gear. Using a set of vise grip, or even regular pliers, give the D/S a hard tug. It will come out unless there is a problem at the U joint. Once removed, use a small screw driver to launch the small retaining ring on the U joint end of the D/S, across the room or drive way, which ever you have at hand. Go to the local hardware and buy a 3/4 in copper splice and cut it to 11/16. If you screw it up, there will be enough copper left to make another one. The O rings are really not needed. Slip it over the drive shaft and it is ready to reinstall. Some time that can be a b*(%^, but you'll get...eventually. Now remove the pinon nut and washer from the 750FD, and rinse the cavity out. Brake clean works good here. Remember the 1100FD? Take the nut and washer from it too. You'll need the washer for use on the 750 FD. Once the cavity is clean and dry, fill the oil holes with RTV and lay some all over the bottom of the cavity. Use the washer from the 1100FD now and tighten the nut up real good, but not so tight that is is hard to turn. Did you remember to put the spring back on the end of the pinion shaft where it meets the drive shaft? You'll want to. Alright, now that's done smear some grease on the splines, and reinstall it, just work backwards from the way you took it apart. After the drain plug has been snuggled into it's place. it's time to add 10 oz of your favorite gear oil. I my self use Castrol Synthetic. Awright, put the fill plug in and it's ready to ride.

[DGXSER]

John has it covered really well. I just finished mine on Sunday. I did some of the work ahead of time. I used a strap wrench on the smooth outside of the 750FD where the drive shaft slides in to hold it still and an impact gun to pull the nut. Then removed the washer and put RTV in the holes, put RTV on the bottom of a 1/2" flat washer from home depot and slid it on next, then put the nut back on and hand tightened it. There is no need to remove the pinion like John stated both here and in the tech tip.

The 750FD that has a phillips screw holding the pinion in and the 850 FD are the type II. It only needs 3-4 inch pounds of preload on the pinion. To get a feel for this force, try holing a stick on your kitchen counter with your finger right on the edge and the stick hanging off the end, then take a 3-4 pound pack of meat or chciekn and place it on the stick one inch from the edge of the counter. That is the force your creating. So I placed my 750FD on my rear wheel, and tightened the nut with a 3/4" drive ratchet. I checked to see that the FD turned easily and then when it did not, I loosened it back up and tightened to just before that. I put red locktite on the nut also.

I also agree that the o-rings are overkill, although I put one on the side where the shaft has no splines just to hold the copper sleeve in place when installing. I would not worry about the copper. The drive shaft, the sleeve, and the yoke it pushes against all turn together as one unit. So there is no real wear created.

Oh yeah, don't forget that spring, it REALLY sucks when you are about to install the rear brake and realize you forgot it. DAMHIKIJK

[pinkelephant]

that filled the blank spots in the tutorial. I'll cut the 3/4" tube 11/16th long and git~r~done. thx

[pinkelephant]

and I need to buy:
3/4" copper pipe
RTV
1/2" washer (I don't want to steal parts from old drive)
locktight
brake cleaner
and gear lube.

[oseaghdha]

and I need to buy:
3/4" copper pipe
RTV
1/2" washer (I don't want to steal parts from old drive)
locktight
brake cleaner
and gear lube.

You want a 3/4" pipe Coupling, not the pipe itself.

[pinkelephant]

You want a 3/4" pipe Coupling, not the pipe itself.

glad u said that.
I'm gonna get to o-rings too

[MindWebs]

ok!!

Very well written John!!!!!!!!

that was just the type of perfection one would see from a professional as yourself!!

that is what i needed to see, it looks like a very simple process indeed.

Thanks John

Webs

[DGXSER]

This is in the tech tip I believe, maybe not though, I pulled the spring off the rear of the rubber boot over the u joint fitting and pulled the rubber boot back to let me put a finger or two on the u joint and manipulate it to line it up to receive the driveshaft. you can look up the driveshaft tunnel with a flashlight and see the joint piece it slides into and get a feel for how to line it up. Makes putting it back in a snap.

Getting the spring back on is another story though, but if you do it before you put the rear wheel on, it will be MUCH easier.