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Have to replace frame, rusted through. Words from the wise, PLEASE.

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  • Have to replace frame, rusted through. Words from the wise, PLEASE.

    Hello and thanks for looking.

    My 79 XS11 Special was a restore when I purchased it a few years ago. I realized, recently, that the small rust holes at the bottom of frame were much more serious than I suspected. I have a replacement frame on the way that I'm assured is very solid ($50 on ebay but $100 to get it to MI). I am going to have to remove everything from my bike and transfer to the new frame. I would be great to get suggestions from the wise on the best way to proceed. Any and all tips to make the transfer of everything go more smoothly would be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks,
    Dave
    Lead, follow or get out of the way!

    79XS11 Special

  • #2
    Depending on the finish on the new frame, you might want to have it sandblasted and powder coated. That will add years of protection against the elements.
    1980 XS850SG - Sold
    1981 XS1100LH Midnight Special (Sold) - purchased 9/29/08
    Fully Vetterized and Dynojet Kit added, Heated Grips, Truck-Lite LED headlight, Accel Coils, Irridium plugs, TKAT Fork Brace, XS850LH Final Drive & Black SS Brake lines from Chacal.
    Here's my web page devoted to my bike! XS/XJ User's Manuals there, and the XJ1100 Service Manual and both XS1100 Service manuals (free download!).

    Whether you think you can, or you think you cannot - You're right.
    -H. Ford

    Comment


    • #3
      The bug hit it.

      While the new frame is empty is the best time to get it bead blasted and powder coated.
      Ray

      '79 XS1100 Special - An XS Odyssey <<-- Click it, you know you want to!
      '07 FJR1300

      Comment


      • #4
        You also need a title with the new frame. Most States require frame AND engine numbers on bikes.
        I would strip BOTH frames, and take the good bits off the "new" frame to fix your old frame. A good welder can probably cut and replace tubes so you still have the same frame number. THEN powder coat and rebuild.
        Ray Matteis
        KE6NHG
        XS1100 E '78 (winter project)
        XS1100 SF Bob Jones worked on it!

        Comment


        • #5
          Do it very carefully!
          Austin Ingalls

          MIDNIGHT FURY
          1979 XS1100 Special [Full Restore Project]
          XJ maxim rear air shocks
          KERKER 4-into-1 exhaust
          Pod Filters

          Money pit.......
          BLACKED OUT

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by DiverRay View Post
            You also need a title with the new frame. Most States require frame AND engine numbers on bikes.
            I would strip BOTH frames, and take the good bits off the "new" frame to fix your old frame. A good welder can probably cut and replace tubes so you still have the same frame number. THEN powder coat and rebuild.
            I don't know how much help this might be, but I read some state literature here in Indiana where you don't need the frame title. Maybe Michigan is the same way, but when you assemble the frame and motor and they aren't matching you can file for an assembled title from what I understand. Here's the link for the Indiana spicific B.S. http://www.in.gov/legislative/ic/cod...9/ar17/ch4.pdf

            I'm pretty sure that's how it is.
            Josh Yoquelet -- I'm having dreams of my XS
            '79 XS11SF "stock"- 4/1 Kerker, T.C.'s fuse block
            '79 XS11SF "bobber"- Rotted in a pine tree for 10 years
            '81 Air forks w/23,000 miles
            New steering head races and bearings
            '78/'79 standard wire harness
            Drag bars, w/Mikes controls
            T.C.'s fuse block
            PNM Coils
            7mm Dyna Wires
            NGK Resistor Caps
            Custom 1" clutch and 9/16" MC

            http://xs11bobber.tripod.com

            Comment


            • #7
              Hi Dave,
              best is if you get a clear title along with the replacement frame.
              If that's not possible I would certainly not advise that you carefully grind off the replacement frame's serial number, build up the area with MIG weld, grind that smooth, stamp in the old frame's serial number atop the weld then get the frame powder-coated and say nothing to nobody. That's most likely an illegal act. Make sure you use the right size stamping punches.
              Fred Hill, S'toon
              XS11SG with Spirit of America sidecar
              "The Flying Pumpkin"

              Comment


              • #8
                More wisdome please

                Thanks for the tips.
                Now how about the methodical move of all parts big and small from one frame to the other? Any tips here will be greatly appreciated.
                Lead, follow or get out of the way!

                79XS11 Special

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by proctor1 View Post
                  Thanks for the tips.
                  Now how about the methodical move of all parts big and small from one frame to the other? Any tips here will be greatly appreciated.
                  Do it very methodically! (Sorry, someone had to...might as well be me!)
                  Life is what happens while your planning everything else!

                  When your work speaks for itself, don't interrupt.

                  81 XS1100 Special - Humpty Dumpty
                  80 XS1100 Special - Project Resurrection


                  Previously owned
                  93 GSX600F
                  80 XS1100 Special - Ruby
                  81 XS1100 Special
                  81 CB750 C
                  80 CB750 C
                  78 XS750

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by proctor1 View Post
                    Thanks for the tips.
                    Now how about the methodical move of all parts big and small from one frame to the other? Any tips here will be greatly appreciated.
                    I don't think there is any good way to do it. It's going to be first off, last on.
                    You will want to pull the motor, then break down the suspension. Generally, the suspension and wheels will go on the new frame first, then the engine, then wires and loose bits.
                    Just keep track of all the fasteners. Baggies and Sharpies are your friends. Take lots of pictures for reference, especially the wiring harness routing.
                    XS1100SF
                    XS1100F

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      One other thought - depending on your jurisdiction and whether there is any hassle about matching frame/engine numbers. If this would be a big hassle, consider cutting the good bottom tubes from the frame you are buying and having them spliced into the frame you already have. Have it done by a competent welder and you should be good to go. Of course, this still means a careful, methodical process for stripping the frame clean and putting it all back together, but might save a lot of papwerwork aggravation.
                      Ken Talbot

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by proctor1 View Post
                        .....would be great to get suggestions from the wise on the best way to proceed. Any and all tips to make the transfer of everything go more smoothly would be greatly appreciated.

                        Thanks,
                        Dave
                        Take LOTS of pictures. It's hard to remember all of the 'what went where' bits, and routing of the wiring/hoses can drive you crazy; taking detailed pics of these items will be particularly helpful. Bag and tag will be a big help too; put all the hardware and small parts in bags and identify what they are.

                        I've gone through the process where the PO took the bike apart and threw everything in a box, and it's very time consuming at best and can be frustrating easily. And don't depend on the manual to make everything clear, 'cause it doesn't always....

                        '78E original owner
                        Fast, Cheap, Reliable... Pick any two

                        '78E original owner - resto project
                        '78E ???? owner - Modder project FJ forks, 4-piston calipers F/R, 160/80-16 rear tire
                        '82 XJ rebuild project
                        '80SG restified, red SOLD
                        '79F parts...
                        '81H more parts...

                        Other current bikes:
                        '93 XL1200 Anniversary Sportster 85RWHP
                        '86 XL883/1200 Chopper
                        '82 XL1000 w/1450cc Buell, Baker 6-speed, in-progress project
                        Cage: '13 Mustang GT/CS with a few 'custom' touches
                        Yep, can't leave nuthin' alone...

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Good stuff, keep it coming

                          Thanks for the tips. I have a box of baggies a roll of masking tape and a fine point sharpie. Are there any special tips for removing the final drive, axel and swing-arm? The front or rear wheels and axels?
                          Thanks again, Dave.
                          Lead, follow or get out of the way!

                          79XS11 Special

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            The front wheel is fairly easy. Make sure the calipers are released, pull the cotter on the left, break the castle nut free, unbolt the axle on the right side... there's a small dimple on the left side where that castle nut screws on. I used a junk phillips screwdriver with some length to it as a punch. Just smack that a few times with your BFH(hammer) of choice and out she'll come.

                            I would recommend checking out those wheel bearings since you have it off. Mine didn't have any external seals. I'm not sure if that's factory or PO f-up. You'll have the speedo to deal with, but it's mechanics are very simple. You can figure that out. Pack the bearings while you're swapping the TT also. Save you wear, time, and replacing the races later (I just did it... what a PITA).

                            If you're just swapping everything to the new frame, just do it one step at a time. I mean like do front suspension, then rear suspension, front brakes, rear brakes, front tire, rear tire, driveline(motor trans driveshaft), electrical, body work. What you're unsure of, deffintely do pictures. Make notes on some scratch paper if you're unsure.
                            Josh Yoquelet -- I'm having dreams of my XS
                            '79 XS11SF "stock"- 4/1 Kerker, T.C.'s fuse block
                            '79 XS11SF "bobber"- Rotted in a pine tree for 10 years
                            '81 Air forks w/23,000 miles
                            New steering head races and bearings
                            '78/'79 standard wire harness
                            Drag bars, w/Mikes controls
                            T.C.'s fuse block
                            PNM Coils
                            7mm Dyna Wires
                            NGK Resistor Caps
                            Custom 1" clutch and 9/16" MC

                            http://xs11bobber.tripod.com

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              If you don't already have one a manual sure helps also using a torque wrench is advised. You're essentially building a bike. If you decide to switch frames each step IMHO is as critical as the contact patch of rubber that meets the road. Good Luck!
                              1980 XS1100G "Dolly G" Full Dresser (with a coat of many colors )
                              1979 XS1100SF (stock-euro mods planned)
                              1984 XV700L Virago (to be hot-modded)
                              1983 XJ750MK Midnight Maxim (semi-restored DD)
                              1977 XS650D ( patiently awaiting resto)

                              Sometimes it takes a whole tank of gas before you can think straight.

                              Comment

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