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I finally got around to cutting down the 21" tall windshield on Tsunami today. Having ridden SWMBO's Purple Reign with its 18" windshield, that seemed like a good height to go with, allowing me to see over the top edge, but still having the main airstream pass over above the top of my helmet. Lots of pictures and vid clips to follow:
First, tape up the windshield with lots of wide masking tape. Mark the new height in the centre. Clamp a 1/8" dowel to produce a nice curve parallel to the top edge, and use this to mark on the tape with a sharpie.
Hold a bit of cardboard behind each top corner to make a template for the new lower corner shape.
Trim the templates, and transfer the new corner shapes for each side.
Use a jigsaw with a sharp, coarse blade.
Run the saw on a very slow speed to prevent heat build-up which can cause the chips to melt and fuse into the kerf behind the blade. On my Dewalt, I set the speed to just a bit above 1.
Take your time with the cutting, letting the blade do the work. The more care you take in keeping to your line, the less time you will have to spend later cleaning up the edge.
Once you've cut about half way, stop. Tape up the kerf so as you get to the other side, the cut will not fall off.
Here's what the raw cut edge will look like.
Now, here come the videos! First is a shot of cutting. Nice and slow...
Once cut, start refining the edge with a coarse file. I like to use a file made specifically for aluminum.
Next use a power sander with 80 grit paper.
320 grit paper comes next, in a handheld rubber sanding block.
Wet or dry paper in 400 grit, used with water is next.
Final sanding is done with a polyester-backed ultra fine sheet that is made for polishing plastic. Also used with water.
This special polyester-backed abrasive comes in a kit.
Remove the masking tape.
And finally, get out your favourite celaning product and clean the new, shorter windshield.
Here's how the edge turned out.
It's as easy as that!
First, tape up the windshield with lots of wide masking tape. Mark the new height in the centre. Clamp a 1/8" dowel to produce a nice curve parallel to the top edge, and use this to mark on the tape with a sharpie.
Hold a bit of cardboard behind each top corner to make a template for the new lower corner shape.
Trim the templates, and transfer the new corner shapes for each side.
Use a jigsaw with a sharp, coarse blade.
Run the saw on a very slow speed to prevent heat build-up which can cause the chips to melt and fuse into the kerf behind the blade. On my Dewalt, I set the speed to just a bit above 1.
Take your time with the cutting, letting the blade do the work. The more care you take in keeping to your line, the less time you will have to spend later cleaning up the edge.
Once you've cut about half way, stop. Tape up the kerf so as you get to the other side, the cut will not fall off.
Here's what the raw cut edge will look like.
Now, here come the videos! First is a shot of cutting. Nice and slow...
Once cut, start refining the edge with a coarse file. I like to use a file made specifically for aluminum.
Next use a power sander with 80 grit paper.
320 grit paper comes next, in a handheld rubber sanding block.
Wet or dry paper in 400 grit, used with water is next.
Final sanding is done with a polyester-backed ultra fine sheet that is made for polishing plastic. Also used with water.
This special polyester-backed abrasive comes in a kit.
Remove the masking tape.
And finally, get out your favourite celaning product and clean the new, shorter windshield.
Here's how the edge turned out.
It's as easy as that!
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