Mikes XS Coil Question

[MrOzz]

On the coils High Output Replacement Ignition Coil Part #17-6803. How do you know which plug wire goes where? The only marking I see is a + and - on the primary side. No markings on the plug side of the coil.

I know a few of you have done the Mikes Xs coil mod so any help is greatly appreciated.


Ozz

[Crazcnuk]

It doesn't matter. These coils fire both leads at the same time.

It's called a 'wasted spark' system. The coils fire two plugs, one cylinder is on compression and the other is on exhaust when it fires.

The left coil fires cyls 1&3, the right 1&4.

[MrOzz]

Thanks Crazcnuk!!!

I was a little confused there.

[bikerphil]

red/wht is pos, org and grey is neg.

[Crazcnuk]

Np, I had to put mine back on recently and I had to think about it for a moment too!

[tinman905]

It doesn't matter. These coils fire both leads at the same time.

It's called a 'wasted spark' system. The coils fire two plugs, one cylinder is on compression and the other is on exhaust when it fires.

The left coil fires cyls 1&3, the right 1&4.

Looks like you have a wasted #2 cylinder too

[Crazcnuk]

heh, and I edited that, too, but then, as usual I hit the wrong button and said to heck with it!

I usually end up editing 2 or 3 times before I hit the SAVE button, very annoying.

[JeeP]

It doesn't matter. These coils fire both leads at the same time.

It's called a 'wasted spark' system. The coils fire two plugs, one cylinder is on compression and the other is on exhaust when it fires.

The left coil fires cyls 1&3, the right 1&4.

The left coil fires 1-4 and right 2-3
Left coil is orange
Right coil is grey
Switch is red-stripped white and shared for both coils
Make sure the ground is good

[JeeP]

red/wht is pos, org and grey is neg.

From a light test tester grounded to the frame, coil wires orange and grey have +12 (and are grounded in the TCI to get the coil to discharge which gives them a 0 polarity). In a standard process, the power will be +12v/0v following firing order. You can check if your TCI is providing fire with that.

Red stripped white (shared by both coils) is always positive (+12v) when ignition is on, power comes from the emergency switch on the handle bar.

You can validate this power comes straight from the electrical harness connected in TCI unit below the seat (orange + grey are straight from there last two wires on the right of the TCI unit).

The only "real" ground (neg) is the coil mounting screw.

**Editted....it's a TCI not a CDI, and the Orange/Grey wires are negative=grounds, you just read 12V..actually should be about 9 on the grey/orange wires because the power is running from the red/white wire THRU the 3 ohm coil on the 81 machines...1.5 ohm on 78-80, and then out thru the gray/orange wires INTO the TCI where it provides the switching ground affect to fire the coils.** T.C.

[dbeardslee]

MrOzz - When you attach your spade connectors to the coils slip a little piece of heat shrink over the end of the wires, connect them, and slip the heat shrink all the way over the plastic part of the coil connection and shrink it. Those connections wind up pointing forward, and it'll help keep water out. Also, when you attach your high tension wires to the coils, a little shot of wd-40 on the end of the wire will allow you to slip the donut on the wire easily, you will be able tighten the caps all the way down using only your hand, and the wire won't try to back out. I tried doing it dry the first time and broke one of the caps. My $.02.

[Axel]

Instead

Wow - I wish I'd done mine that way . Instead I used RTV silicone and di-electric grease outside to keep the moisture out and a small dot of petroleum jelly inside on the connections to conduct electricity and fight corrosion .

[dbeardslee]

A little dielectric around the wire after you've screwed it into the coil and before you screw the cap down isn't a bad idea. If you cut the wire ends straight, by the time you get through screwing the cable in it should have a pretty good seal between the rubber wire and the plastic on the coil. Then the donut really seals it. Still, a little extra protection never hurt anyone. The last time I changed my high tension wires I didn't bother using new donuts - just a couple fat o-rings. Dielectric would probably have been a good idea there. Next time.

[JeeP]

**Editted....it's a TCI not a CDI, and the Orange/Grey wires are negative=grounds, you just read 12V..actually should be about 9 on the grey/orange wires because the power is running from the red/white wire THRU the 3 ohm coil on the 81 machines...1.5 ohm on 78-80, and then out thru the gray/orange wires INTO the TCI where it provides the switching ground affect to fire the coils.** T.C.[/QUOTE]

I apologize for the TCI-CDI thing .. I am often confused between abbreviation. For the voltage, may be we say the same thing .. but from the service manual page 6-11 I still see 12 volt..

[MrOzz]

I choose not to go with spade connectors on the primary side. I soldered the wires R/W, O, G on. Used the heat shrink with the glue in it to make sure connections dont get wet. I used a little dielectric around the plug wires. Yes that help to get the o-rings over the plug wires and will help keep the water out. Thanks for the info all!!!!

Now all I need is the rest of my parts to get back from the paint shop so I can reassemble and go ride.


Ozz