Tire Size

[JRealHEMC]

Don't like it on the rear, it doesn't last (about 3000 miles on the last one)

Thanx, that's all I needed to hear (read)... And I'm not really worried about the life, for 70 bucks brand new I'll buy another rear tire in 3000 miles, Lol. I rather them match. (Just my OCD)

[BA80]

Thanx, that's all I needed to hear (read)... And I'm not really worried about the life, for 70 bucks brand new I'll buy another rear tire in 3000 miles, Lol. I rather them match. (Just my OCD)

If you don't do much LD riding that's a good choice. I just don't like changing the tire every time I change the oil. I usually get 8 - 10 K out of the E3.

[BA80]

BTW.....you should be able to get a set of 712's for under $100 with free shipping. This is who I use...... http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/search/go?w=Shinko 712

[trbig]

It's no problem running a 110/19 on the front of the XJ. You generally have to "Finesse" the fender on the XS to get one in there, but not so on the XJ. You may have to fill it with air to seat the bead, then let the air out, then mount it and air it back up though.

I usually run the Shinko 712s front and back on my XJ, and I don't ever feel what Greg is talking about with them. I can corner with the best of 'em with the Shinkos. I also like the Dunlop E3, but I get more miles for the money out of the Shinkos than I get from the E3, and I keep fresher rubber on the ground that way. BUT.. I change my own tires and don't have to factor in that cost if you pay someone else.

In case you didn't know, when Yokahama went out of business, Shinko bought all their molds and recipes, so you're really getting a Yokahama tire with Shinko's name on it... for a lot less.

[JRealHEMC]

It's no problem running a 110/19 on the front of the XJ. You generally have to "Finesse" the fender on the XS to get one in there, but not so on the XJ. You may have to fill it with air to seat the bead, then let the air out, then mount it and air it back up though.

I usually run the Shinko 712s front and back on my XJ, and I don't ever feel what Greg is talking about with them. I can corner with the best of 'em with the Shinkos. I also like the Dunlop E3, but I get more miles for the money out of the Shinkos than I get from the E3, and I keep fresher rubber on the ground that way. BUT.. I change my own tires and don't have to factor in that cost if you pay someone else.

In case you didn't know, when Yokahama went out of business, Shinko bought all their molds and recipes, so you're really getting a Yokahama tire with Shinko's name on it... for a lot less.

Good to know!

[BA80]

I usually run the Shinko 712s front and back on my XJ, and I don't ever feel what Greg is talking about with them. I can corner with the best of 'em with the Shinkos.

Well Tod, I just don't have the ballast you do.

[Bonz]

My $.02... Did some tire searching and discussion on the forum a couple years ago, and decided on the Shinko 230 Tourmaster. Tire life based on others experience lead me to that. I already have the front 230 on the bike, replacing a D404 that lasted not long enough, never use one again from that perspective although no complaints performance wise.

The 230 Tourmaster has a higher load rating than the 712, which on a 600+ lb bike loaded up and truckin', will translate into better tire life on the whole. Current prices have about an $8 difference between the 130/90/16 230 Tourmaster vs. 712 depending where you look.

Currently I have an Elite II on the rear, around 11,000 miles and too old to mention the born on date, so suffice it to say I am very happy with tire life in both tread wear and quality of rubber to hold up over the years in general. The 230 Tourmaster rear is going on the rear before the Colorado Rally this summer.

I have run Shinko Raven 009's front and rear on the ZRX1200 with 10,000 miles life from the rear and 12,000 miles out of the front. Excellent life for a 135+ Hp and 85 ft/lb bike. Currently running the Shinko Verge dual compound on the rear and Verge single compound up front. 7,000 mile on each and looking like they'll make close to 10,000 on the rear and more from the front.

Yes, Shinko makes good stuff!

[BA80]

I ran a set of 230's a while back Howard, I found they were comparable to the 712's except the 230 front cupped on the sides faster than the 712. The rear wore out MUCH faster though.

It's pretty much trial and error with tires. No 2 people ride the same.

[Bonz]

Good info, Greg. Yeah, my experience is nil with the 230 rear tire, went with what I had read, your real-life experience is good to hear. Front 230 is doing well with only 1500-ish miles. Will keep an eye out for cupping. FWIW, on each bike I have purchased (all of them used) the front tire regardless of brand was cupping if it had any amount of miles on it (Bandit 1200, VStrom 1000, ZRX1200, XS1100).

From my experience with the new tires I have run on the front, keeping a close eye (each week or so) on tire pressure and running it 38-41 psi eliminates cupping. That is higher psi than a lot of guys run, however it returns very good tire wear characteristics and thus tire life.

[BA80]

Good info, Greg. Yeah, my experience is nil with the 230 rear tire, went with what I had read, your real-life experience is good to hear. Front 230 is doing well with only 1500-ish miles. Will keep an eye out for cupping. FWIW, on each bike I have purchased (all of them used) the front tire regardless of brand was cupping if it had any amount of miles on it (Bandit 1200, VStrom 1000, ZRX1200, XS1100).

From my experience with the new tires I have run on the front, keeping a close eye (each week or so) on tire pressure and running it 38-41 psi eliminates cupping. That is higher psi than a lot of guys run, however it returns very good tire wear characteristics and thus tire life.

Yeah, you're right, they all do sooner or later. Not really much you can do about it. I just go by how long it takes until they start singing to me in the corners.

I'm not quite so vigilant with tire pressures though. Getting ready for a long trip I check them but around home not so much. I usually will notice a change in handling before I'll put a guage on them.

[Bonz]

No doubt the front end starts feeling soggy when the pressure is getting low. Had that happen a time or two early on when I started riding again 10 years ago, and have taken more than a few bikes at dealerships for rides in the spring and the front end pushed like a dump truck because they hadn't stayed on top of pressure over the winter.

[TopCatGr58]

The Shinko 712 is the best tire for the $ in my opinion. I run it on the front and I run the 110 with no rubbing issues.

Don't like it on the rear, it doesn't last (about 3000 miles on the last one) and I personally don't like the way it feels. The sidewall is too soft, feels squishy hard in the turns.

I prefer the Dunlop Elite 3 on the rear. Stock 130/90/19 size.

Hey Greg,

I got an Elite III on the rear a couple/few years ago, have done some short rallies, but also an LDR run last year to XSSE running down and back up the Blue Ridge Parkway. When I got back home, I checked it out, still has about 1/4" tread depth in the center, but what's bothering me is that the tread pattern is showing some significant FEATHERING of the groove/edges! I do tend to use engine braking a bit more compared to the real brakes, and verified that I had the rotation orientation correct. SO...anyways, with my rebuild project, am looking at new tread for the rear. I have the Shinko 230 up front, and it's doing just fine and no cupping. Just curious if you've seen this feathering affect on yours??? I do run the pressure around 35psi partly because I am running the 140/90 size and it tended to rub a bit more if I inflated it too much. I guess that level of inflation could be a contributing factor to the feathering???

So...I'll be getting the Shinko 230 for the rear...the 140/90/16 because I'll be modding the swingarm a bit more to allow more room for the wider tire AT the normal optimum pressure of ~40psi.

T.C

[BA80]

Hey Greg,

I got an Elite III on the rear a couple/few years ago, have done some short rallies, but also an LDR run last year to XSSE running down and back up the Blue Ridge Parkway. When I got back home, I checked it out, still has about 1/4" tread depth in the center, but what's bothering me is that the tread pattern is showing some significant FEATHERING of the groove/edges! I do tend to use engine braking a bit more compared to the real brakes, and verified that I had the rotation orientation correct. SO...anyways, with my rebuild project, am looking at new tread for the rear. I have the Shinko 230 up front, and it's doing just fine and no cupping. Just curious if you've seen this feathering affect on yours??? I do run the pressure around 35psi partly because I am running the 140/90 size and it tended to rub a bit more if I inflated it too much. I guess that level of inflation could be a contributing factor to the feathering???

So...I'll be getting the Shinko 230 for the rear...the 140/90/16 because I'll be modding the swingarm a bit more to allow more room for the wider tire AT the normal optimum pressure of ~40psi.

T.C

Yeah, the one I just took off was starting to feather pretty good but it's been on there for almost 2 years and more than 10K miles. I think the feathering is due mostly to engine braking in the corners. Since I put the XJ rear shocks on it seems to have gotten better though.

[Bigfoot]

I have been using the Shinko 712 for a few years now. I did try a set of the tourmasters but didn't find that they lasted any longer for me and I liked the feel of the 712 better. I usually get around 6k out of a rear tire. Well, at least before I end up changing it because I have a trip to go on. What I have found is they wear quickest on HOT freeway riding. This may be true with any tire, but especially the Shinko. I think the compounds are pretty soft and when the pavement is really hot, just eats it away that much quicker.