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  • help needed

    I am trying to check and change my middle and final drive fluids but the allens will not move all i am doing is twistin my allen wrenches any suggestions on how to get them out. thanxs in advance chad ps i have sprayed them down with pb blaster still wont break loose
    1978 xs1100 e

  • #2
    Are you sure you are using metric allen keys-if so maybe get a small pipe and put them on the end for more leverage.
    1980 XS1100 SG
    Inline fuel filters
    New wires in old coils-outer spark plugs
    160 mph speedometer mod
    Kerker Exhaust
    xschop K & N air filter setup
    Dynojet Recalibration kit
    1999 Kawasaki ZRX1100
    1997 Jeep Cherokee 4.5"lift installed

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    • #3
      yes im using meteric, i have used the box part of an opened end wrench and it still wont move
      1978 xs1100 e

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      • #4
        Try hitting the allen head thing with a torch to heat it up. No guarantees, but warmth often helps loosen things.
        1980 XS850SG - Sold
        1981 XS1100LH Midnight Special (Sold) - purchased 9/29/08
        Fully Vetterized and Dynojet Kit added, Heated Grips, Truck-Lite LED headlight, Accel Coils, Irridium plugs, TKAT Fork Brace, XS850LH Final Drive & Black SS Brake lines from Chacal.
        Here's my web page devoted to my bike! XS/XJ User's Manuals there, and the XJ1100 Service Manual and both XS1100 Service manuals (free download!).

        Whether you think you can, or you think you cannot - You're right.
        -H. Ford

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        • #5
          Warm up the CASE, NOT the allen head bolt!!! I usually put in a TIGHT FITTING allen, and then hit it with a hammer to "break" it loose. This works best when the cases are warm, as in right after a ride. Use a propane torch if you can't ride the bike at the moment. You ALWAYS want to pull the "fill" BEFORE you pull the drain!
          Ray Matteis
          KE6NHG
          XS1100 E '78 (winter project)
          XS1100 SF Bob Jones worked on it!

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          • #6
            If you stripped the allen head out. There have been some on here that said you can use a pair of vise grips on the head. And some say you can use a dremel to cut a slot on the top to use a screw driver to break it lose. I myself don't see how a flat blade screw driver could break one lose if it's that tight. To me I'd use the vise grip. There is just enough of the head sticking up to get a bite on. Once you have it broke lose you can cut six sides into using a dremel to fit a socket. Then you won't have that problem again.

            Now the rear filer plug is flush. If you strip it out. Well you get the idea.

            You say you want to check the fluid level in the middle and final drives. You may know this but in case you don't there is a special tool you use. If you don't have this little tool I believe you can find the size of it in the tech tip area. You can just make one of your own. Now where or which tech tip its in I'm not for sure. But you can find it. Hope this may help. Good Luck!
            Chris

            79 XS1100 Standard aka: Mutt
            87 Honda TRX350D 4X4: Old Blue!
            93 NewYorker Salon: Sleeper...
            71 RoadRunner 440 Magnum: Mean Green!
            69 Charger 440 Magnum: Pleasure Ride!

            Gimme Fuel Gimme Fire!

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            • #7
              If its not stripped yet,you can cut the allen about 3/4" long then stick one end in the bolt head and put a ratchet with a socket on it.Then use a breaker bar.
              80 SG XS1100
              14 Victory Cross Country

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              • #8
                Originally posted by ccogswel View Post
                You say you want to check the fluid level in the middle and final drives. You may know this but in case you don't there is a special tool you use. If you don't have this little tool I believe you can find the size of it in the tech tip area. You can just make one of your own. Now where or which tech tip its in I'm not for sure. But you can find it. Hope this may help. Good Luck!
                I made one of those dip sticks outta lexan that I had laying around. However, I understand Yamaha still makes and sells them for really cheap. Might be worth a run to the dealer for one.
                1980 XS850SG - Sold
                1981 XS1100LH Midnight Special (Sold) - purchased 9/29/08
                Fully Vetterized and Dynojet Kit added, Heated Grips, Truck-Lite LED headlight, Accel Coils, Irridium plugs, TKAT Fork Brace, XS850LH Final Drive & Black SS Brake lines from Chacal.
                Here's my web page devoted to my bike! XS/XJ User's Manuals there, and the XJ1100 Service Manual and both XS1100 Service manuals (free download!).

                Whether you think you can, or you think you cannot - You're right.
                -H. Ford

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                • #9
                  ...or you can drain all the old fluid out, and use a measuring cup to fill it back up, according to the clymer manual. It has how much it is supposes to hold in the front, if I remeber right. Later 'Dog

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                  • #10
                    If I have an allen that tight I treat it just as I would if it were a philips head.I get the proper size allen socket and attach it to my impact driver.Smack-smack it comes loose.Apply anti seize when replacing plug.Your local hardware store should have a shiny new stainless steel one.
                    1980 special (Phyllis)
                    1196 10.5 to 1 kit,megacycle cams,shaved head,dynojet carb kit,ported intake and exhaust,mac 4 into 1 exhaust,drilled rotors,ss brake lines,pods,mikes xs green coils,iridium plugs,led lights,throttle lock,progressive shocks,oil cooler,ajustable cam gears,HD valve springs,Vmax tensioner mod

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                    • #11
                      thank you everbody for all the great info will give them all a try till they com out. chad
                      1978 xs1100 e

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                      • #12
                        I'll second tw1980 on the impact driver idea. If you don't have one, you need to get one. And you need to get it now, before you go on and strip out any more fasteners. Then you need to get a container of Loctite 767 anti-seize thread compound so when you put those steel fasteners back in their aluminum holes, they will not just seize in there again.

                        I think sometimes that we should have a sticky note somewhere in the forum that welcomes you to the forum, and tells you to get an impact driver and anti-seize compound before you lay your hands on your new ride!

                        YMMV...
                        Ken Talbot

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                        • #13
                          Dumb place to put a hexagon socket

                          My caps were already cammed out when I got the bike.
                          To remove them I filed two flats on the edges and took them out with an open ended wrench.
                          Then I fixed them to be like they should have been in the first place. Drilled the hex holes out to be 6mm diameter. Sawed off two hex head bolts just long enough to fit in the holes. Brazed them in place. Take them out with a box-end wrench real easy.
                          Fred Hill, S'toon
                          XS11SG with Spirit of America sidecar
                          "The Flying Pumpkin"

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                          • #14
                            I don't think anyone mentioned the cold chisel and hammer method. Start the chisel at about the 4 o'clock position, hammer straight in until you have a nice groove, then angle it so the plug will turn counter clockwise.
                            2H7 (79)
                            3H3

                            "If it ain't broke, modify it"

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                            • #15
                              Filler plugs

                              Sparky, if you haven't got fill plugs out yet, snap a small set of vise grips on raised shoulder of plug and tap vise grips lightly with a hammer. The threads going into aluminum isn't the problem, the top shoulder seating against top of case is. Going back in, just snug is all that's needed on both these fill caps.
                              81H Venturer1100 "The Bentley" (on steroids) 97 Yamaha YZ250(age reducer) 92 Honda ST1100 "Twisty"(touring rocket) Age is relative to the number of seconds counted 'airing' out an 85ft. table-top.

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