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i Have a 1979 XS100 special (SF i believe)
I've installed fatboy mufflers and a uni air filter(stock air box)
oh joy, oh joy, PO broke a float pin casting on carb 4, no big deal.
I ground the broke tab flat and drilled and tapped the casting, then i used a stainless metric bolt and ground on the threads to flatten them to correct shape and installed it, measured correct hole height and drilled it to install
the float pin.
Sorry, i don't understand the picture posting thing.
after disassembling carb's, i found the 2 differently ported emmulsion tubes
with the low port counts on carbs 2&3 and high port counts on 1&4. I did the reading here on XS11.com, found that was wrong.
set the floats according to gas level in bowl, PITA. what i found is that carb 4tang is extremely different then 1-3. carbs 1-3 running 2.10-2.58mm and carb 4 being 3.56mm, all measurements are on the "tang".
Possibly a bad float, i have to check with hot water yet.
no broken pilot screws(top, engine side of carb)
i used my digital caliper to measure the butterfly valves from the outside of carb throat to bottem edge of valve, all are set identicly (now).
so, now down to details....
i have idle issues, screws set to 2.5 turns out.
it idles poorly, lots of popping/backfiring, (blows 6 inch blue flames out of mufflers.)
it idles low, so i increase the idle set screw, it doesn't do anything for 1.5 turns then it jumps from 1000 rpm to 3500rpm...
i do need to check the coil pickup wires yet. (i'm planning on doing that)
i also need to check valve clearance. (planning on doing that as well)
does anyone have any other recomendations while i'm into these tasks,
or perhaps live near enough to help with valve's ?
carb's, timing, wiring, turning bolts don't scare me, but valves i've NEVER done on any of my own vehicles.
will pay gas money and food and beverages of choise!!!
Also in your "tech tips" You REALLY need to add a page about removing stuck jets in carbs.. it's really quite simple!!
dissassemble carbs as best you can removing slide assembly, it's OK to leave assembled as a "bank" now make sure you've drained out as much of the gas as possible and dried with LOW pressure compressed air. now take your handy propane torch and heat the casting by the stuck jet, remove heat and spray with WD40, repeat this step 4-5 times the WD should vaporize as it hits the jet. It make lovely smelling smoke. watch it, this smoke is HIGHLY flammable. now "cool" the jet with WD40 and try removing it now.
Remember chemisty class when the talked about different rates of expansion?
well, here is your refresher, aluminum is lower density then brass, so it expands faster and bigger then brass. which is how the WD40 get's down in there to eat out the corosion.
also when you have 2 different metals in contact with each other they conduct "Static" electricity differently, creating a disimmilar charge and creating what we know as a "battery". now just introduce a small ammount of water in the equasion and you will have lots of corrosion.
A few tips here.
WD40 contains a small amount of acid, this is how it "eats" the corrosion out.
Never use it as a lubricant, it can CAUSE corrosion after the oil runs off.
Gas and flame is only dangerous if you are dealing with alot of gas, or the gas can become presurized by the heat being in a sealed area. nether of these are true on our carbs. if my steps were followed.
lastly, anti-seize compond will NOT plug your ports on all the jets, so apply it to your jets when re-assembling the carbs. this will make it easier to dis-assemble later on, hopefully in the very distant future.
If one has allready done the worst and twisted the "notch" out of the jet, then i recomend WD40 and heat, and then try a left handed twist drill bit, to try and coax the jet out. load the drill bit in a vise grip, NOT a drill.
that's all i have
please let me know of any tips that may help
Thanks
Webs
I've installed fatboy mufflers and a uni air filter(stock air box)
oh joy, oh joy, PO broke a float pin casting on carb 4, no big deal.
I ground the broke tab flat and drilled and tapped the casting, then i used a stainless metric bolt and ground on the threads to flatten them to correct shape and installed it, measured correct hole height and drilled it to install
the float pin.
Sorry, i don't understand the picture posting thing.
after disassembling carb's, i found the 2 differently ported emmulsion tubes
with the low port counts on carbs 2&3 and high port counts on 1&4. I did the reading here on XS11.com, found that was wrong.
set the floats according to gas level in bowl, PITA. what i found is that carb 4tang is extremely different then 1-3. carbs 1-3 running 2.10-2.58mm and carb 4 being 3.56mm, all measurements are on the "tang".
Possibly a bad float, i have to check with hot water yet.
no broken pilot screws(top, engine side of carb)
i used my digital caliper to measure the butterfly valves from the outside of carb throat to bottem edge of valve, all are set identicly (now).
so, now down to details....
i have idle issues, screws set to 2.5 turns out.
it idles poorly, lots of popping/backfiring, (blows 6 inch blue flames out of mufflers.)
it idles low, so i increase the idle set screw, it doesn't do anything for 1.5 turns then it jumps from 1000 rpm to 3500rpm...
i do need to check the coil pickup wires yet. (i'm planning on doing that)
i also need to check valve clearance. (planning on doing that as well)
does anyone have any other recomendations while i'm into these tasks,
or perhaps live near enough to help with valve's ?
carb's, timing, wiring, turning bolts don't scare me, but valves i've NEVER done on any of my own vehicles.
will pay gas money and food and beverages of choise!!!
Also in your "tech tips" You REALLY need to add a page about removing stuck jets in carbs.. it's really quite simple!!
dissassemble carbs as best you can removing slide assembly, it's OK to leave assembled as a "bank" now make sure you've drained out as much of the gas as possible and dried with LOW pressure compressed air. now take your handy propane torch and heat the casting by the stuck jet, remove heat and spray with WD40, repeat this step 4-5 times the WD should vaporize as it hits the jet. It make lovely smelling smoke. watch it, this smoke is HIGHLY flammable. now "cool" the jet with WD40 and try removing it now.
Remember chemisty class when the talked about different rates of expansion?
well, here is your refresher, aluminum is lower density then brass, so it expands faster and bigger then brass. which is how the WD40 get's down in there to eat out the corosion.
also when you have 2 different metals in contact with each other they conduct "Static" electricity differently, creating a disimmilar charge and creating what we know as a "battery". now just introduce a small ammount of water in the equasion and you will have lots of corrosion.
A few tips here.
WD40 contains a small amount of acid, this is how it "eats" the corrosion out.
Never use it as a lubricant, it can CAUSE corrosion after the oil runs off.
Gas and flame is only dangerous if you are dealing with alot of gas, or the gas can become presurized by the heat being in a sealed area. nether of these are true on our carbs. if my steps were followed.
lastly, anti-seize compond will NOT plug your ports on all the jets, so apply it to your jets when re-assembling the carbs. this will make it easier to dis-assemble later on, hopefully in the very distant future.
If one has allready done the worst and twisted the "notch" out of the jet, then i recomend WD40 and heat, and then try a left handed twist drill bit, to try and coax the jet out. load the drill bit in a vise grip, NOT a drill.
that's all i have
please let me know of any tips that may help
Thanks
Webs
But I can help with posting pictures. Create a Photobucket account (
(Sold back to Maximan)
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