installing the cam chain on the sprockets?

[digitalsam]

I am trying to install the cam chain on the sprockets, but it seems like the chain is too short. I can't get the second cam over the bolts, there doesn't seem to be enough slack in the chain.

Any advice?

[DGXSER]

Always one to look at the obvious, do you have the cam chain tensioner installed??

Also look for a thread where TRBig did a good writeup of loosening the cams to reshim the valves, might give you some ideas.

HTH

[digitalsam]

Always one to look at the obvious, do you have the cam chain tensioner installed??

Also look for a thread where TRBig did a good writeup of loosening the cams to reshim the valves, might give you some ideas.

HTH

The tensioner is not installed. Should it be? Can't seem to find the thread, sent a message to TRBig.

Should it be easy to install the cam chain? or is there a trick?

[DGXSER]

I have never gone that deep into an XS myself, but I would guarantee you want the tensioner out or off when installing the chain. The part I recall Tod speaking of was the cam chain support or brace that went in between the two cams. I know he said to remove it to get slack for letting the cams lift to replace shims. HTH

[oldnortonrider]

DigitalSam, since you're in the 'digital' business~~you've probably got 'Skype'.
You can call me at "john.carlton.riggs". If you don't have it, you can download it, free.

The 'top chain guide' you guys are referring to, is fairly easy to figure out when it needs to go back in its rightful place.

[dbeardslee]

Could be you're off the sprocket on the bottom. Sometimes you have to play with them a little to get them back on that sprocket. Make sure it's on it - don't want to find out after you've got the chain back together. Tensioner stays out till after the chain is reattached. The bridge between the two cam sprockets can go back in after the chain is back together.

[trbig]

I wrote Sam already.. but just so you guys know... I think the problem is that he's trying to install both cams into their respective places while both are loose. There isn't enough chain to do this. You must bolt one of the cams into place first. This pushes down on the valves/springs and compresses some of them.. and makes enough room for the other cam to now drop into place.

That guide bar isn't a biggie. When you get done installing the cams and sprockets, give the chain a little pop with your fist in between the cams and it will give you a little slack.. then you can install that guide bar.


Tod

[digitalsam]

IYou must bolt one of the cams into place first. This pushes down on the valves/springs and compresses some of them.. and makes enough room for the other cam to now drop into place.


Tod

Ah ha! I will try that this evening. Thanks. If anyone else has advice about installing cams, post it here. The manual just tells me to insert the cams and poof...

[dbeardslee]

My advice is don't rivet the master link until you are certain you are on all three sprockets, and the cams are in their proper orientation. It's very easy to get it one tooth off. If it's a brand new chain, the dots should line up right on the dots. If it's stretched they will be the same distance off the dots to the outsides (hope that makes sense). Of course that's with the timing mark pointing at "T". It's worth trying it 'one tooth this way, and one tooth that way' just to make sure. Here ends my $.02.

[digitalsam]

My advice is don't rivet the master link until you are certain you are on all three sprockets, and the cams are in their proper orientation.

The chain is already riveted from before I took the engine apart. Is it OK to reuse it as is?

[bikerphil]

The chain is already riveted from before I took the engine apart. Is it OK to reuse it as is?

From what I've experienced, the chain is good for about 60K before it is too stretched out and can't be adjusted anymore. YMMV. If your engine is low miles, I'd leave it and replace later on. High miles, I'd change it now. It can be changed without splitting the cases. Whatever you decide to do, after chain is in and the tensioner adjusted, turn the crank slowly with the plugs out to make sure the timing is correct.

[digitalsam]

tightening the cams

OK, I am here, ready to tighten down one of the cams so that I can loop the chain over the other cam.

Question, Is there a position that the cam needs to be in before I tighten it?

I have pistons 1 and 4 in the center top position and my thinking is that... if the outer "nobs" on the cams compress the valve that it will contact with the piston and bend the valve.

If anyone has any idea, let me know ASAP and I can have the engine in the bike before the day is over.

[randy]

Aren't you following the timing method in the manual?!? This is dangerous if you're not following written directions. Do this with the bike on the centerstand.

Crank on 'T' mark.

Lube cam seats in head.

Place cams in head.

Lube cam journals

Place cam caps on studs (caps are numbered and lettered) with Cam DOTS lined up with ARROWS on cam caps.

Tighten down cam caps gradually and evenly across till they're seated.

Slip chain over cam gears, slip gears on cams lining up one bolt hole for each gear.

Install one bolt on each gear. check that DOTS and ARROWS are still aligned.

Check timing, hold finger in tensioner hole to take slack out of chain, rotate crank SLOWLY TWO REVOLUTIONS to be sure chain is on crank. KEEP HOLDING THE TENSION WITH YOUR FINGER till dots and arrows line up again, check "T" mark lines up.

If everything lines up, install tensioner. Install chain guide. Torque cam caps. Recheck shim clearances. Install second bolt on cam gears. Install valve cover.

SYNCHRONIZE carbs.

Ride.