Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

installing the cam chain on the sprockets?

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • installing the cam chain on the sprockets?

    I am trying to install the cam chain on the sprockets, but it seems like the chain is too short. I can't get the second cam over the bolts, there doesn't seem to be enough slack in the chain.

    Any advice?
    Sam Christensen
    The Chronicles of my Rebuild http://xs1100rebuild.blogspot.com

    --------------------------------------------------------
    If you are leading and no one is following, maybe your just taking a walk.

    Currently bikeless. Sold my 1980 XS1100 Special

  • #2
    Always one to look at the obvious, do you have the cam chain tensioner installed??

    Also look for a thread where TRBig did a good writeup of loosening the cams to reshim the valves, might give you some ideas.

    HTH
    Life is what happens while your planning everything else!

    When your work speaks for itself, don't interrupt.

    81 XS1100 Special - Humpty Dumpty
    80 XS1100 Special - Project Resurrection


    Previously owned
    93 GSX600F
    80 XS1100 Special - Ruby
    81 XS1100 Special
    81 CB750 C
    80 CB750 C
    78 XS750

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by DGXSER View Post
      Always one to look at the obvious, do you have the cam chain tensioner installed??

      Also look for a thread where TRBig did a good writeup of loosening the cams to reshim the valves, might give you some ideas.

      HTH
      The tensioner is not installed. Should it be? Can't seem to find the thread, sent a message to TRBig.

      Should it be easy to install the cam chain? or is there a trick?
      Sam Christensen
      The Chronicles of my Rebuild http://xs1100rebuild.blogspot.com

      --------------------------------------------------------
      If you are leading and no one is following, maybe your just taking a walk.

      Currently bikeless. Sold my 1980 XS1100 Special

      Comment


      • #4
        I have never gone that deep into an XS myself, but I would guarantee you want the tensioner out or off when installing the chain. The part I recall Tod speaking of was the cam chain support or brace that went in between the two cams. I know he said to remove it to get slack for letting the cams lift to replace shims. HTH
        Life is what happens while your planning everything else!

        When your work speaks for itself, don't interrupt.

        81 XS1100 Special - Humpty Dumpty
        80 XS1100 Special - Project Resurrection


        Previously owned
        93 GSX600F
        80 XS1100 Special - Ruby
        81 XS1100 Special
        81 CB750 C
        80 CB750 C
        78 XS750

        Comment


        • #5
          DigitalSam, since you're in the 'digital' business~~you've probably got 'Skype'.
          You can call me at "john.carlton.riggs". If you don't have it, you can download it, free.

          The 'top chain guide' you guys are referring to, is fairly easy to figure out when it needs to go back in its rightful place.
          JCarltonRiggs

          81XS1100SH; WorkingMotorcycle,Not For Show,DeletedFairing,SportsterHL,
          7½ gal. Kaw Concours gastank,1972 Wixom Bros. bags

          79XS1100F; ?Parts?, or to Restore?

          Comment


          • #6
            Could be you're off the sprocket on the bottom. Sometimes you have to play with them a little to get them back on that sprocket. Make sure it's on it - don't want to find out after you've got the chain back together. Tensioner stays out till after the chain is reattached. The bridge between the two cam sprockets can go back in after the chain is back together.
            I think I have a loose screw behind the handlebars.

            '79 XS11 Standard, Jardine 4/1, Dyna DC1-1 Coils, 145 mains, 45 pilots, plastic floats - 25.7mm, XV920 fuel valves, inline fuel filters, speed bleeders, Mikes XS pods, spade-type fuse block, fork brace, progressive fork springs/shocks, manual petcocks, 750 FD, Venture cam chain tensioner, SS brake lines

            Comment


            • #7
              I wrote Sam already.. but just so you guys know... I think the problem is that he's trying to install both cams into their respective places while both are loose. There isn't enough chain to do this. You must bolt one of the cams into place first. This pushes down on the valves/springs and compresses some of them.. and makes enough room for the other cam to now drop into place.

              That guide bar isn't a biggie. When you get done installing the cams and sprockets, give the chain a little pop with your fist in between the cams and it will give you a little slack.. then you can install that guide bar.


              Tod
              Try your hardest to be the kind of person your dog thinks you are.

              You can live to be 100, as long as you give up everything that would make you want to live to be 100!

              Current bikes:
              '06 Suzuki DR650
              *'82 XJ1100 with the 1179 kit. "Mad Maxim"
              '82 XJ1100 Completely stock fixer-upper
              '82 XJ1100 Bagger fixer-upper
              '82 XJ1100 Motor/frame and lots of boxes of parts
              '82 XJ1100 Parts bike
              '81 XS1100 Special
              '81 YZ250
              '80 XS850 Special
              '80 XR100
              *Crashed/Totalled, still own

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by trbig View Post
                IYou must bolt one of the cams into place first. This pushes down on the valves/springs and compresses some of them.. and makes enough room for the other cam to now drop into place.


                Tod
                Ah ha! I will try that this evening. Thanks. If anyone else has advice about installing cams, post it here. The manual just tells me to insert the cams and poof...
                Sam Christensen
                The Chronicles of my Rebuild http://xs1100rebuild.blogspot.com

                --------------------------------------------------------
                If you are leading and no one is following, maybe your just taking a walk.

                Currently bikeless. Sold my 1980 XS1100 Special

                Comment


                • #9
                  My advice is don't rivet the master link until you are certain you are on all three sprockets, and the cams are in their proper orientation. It's very easy to get it one tooth off. If it's a brand new chain, the dots should line up right on the dots. If it's stretched they will be the same distance off the dots to the outsides (hope that makes sense). Of course that's with the timing mark pointing at "T". It's worth trying it 'one tooth this way, and one tooth that way' just to make sure. Here ends my $.02.
                  I think I have a loose screw behind the handlebars.

                  '79 XS11 Standard, Jardine 4/1, Dyna DC1-1 Coils, 145 mains, 45 pilots, plastic floats - 25.7mm, XV920 fuel valves, inline fuel filters, speed bleeders, Mikes XS pods, spade-type fuse block, fork brace, progressive fork springs/shocks, manual petcocks, 750 FD, Venture cam chain tensioner, SS brake lines

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by dbeardslee View Post
                    My advice is don't rivet the master link until you are certain you are on all three sprockets, and the cams are in their proper orientation.
                    The chain is already riveted from before I took the engine apart. Is it OK to reuse it as is?
                    Sam Christensen
                    The Chronicles of my Rebuild http://xs1100rebuild.blogspot.com

                    --------------------------------------------------------
                    If you are leading and no one is following, maybe your just taking a walk.

                    Currently bikeless. Sold my 1980 XS1100 Special

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by digitalsam View Post
                      The chain is already riveted from before I took the engine apart. Is it OK to reuse it as is?
                      From what I've experienced, the chain is good for about 60K before it is too stretched out and can't be adjusted anymore. YMMV. If your engine is low miles, I'd leave it and replace later on. High miles, I'd change it now. It can be changed without splitting the cases. Whatever you decide to do, after chain is in and the tensioner adjusted, turn the crank slowly with the plugs out to make sure the timing is correct.
                      Last edited by bikerphil; 05-26-2009, 09:30 PM.
                      2H7 (79) owned since '89
                      3H3 owned since '06

                      "If it ain't broke, modify it"

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        tightening the cams

                        OK, I am here, ready to tighten down one of the cams so that I can loop the chain over the other cam.

                        Question, Is there a position that the cam needs to be in before I tighten it?

                        I have pistons 1 and 4 in the center top position and my thinking is that... if the outer "nobs" on the cams compress the valve that it will contact with the piston and bend the valve.

                        If anyone has any idea, let me know ASAP and I can have the engine in the bike before the day is over.
                        Sam Christensen
                        The Chronicles of my Rebuild http://xs1100rebuild.blogspot.com

                        --------------------------------------------------------
                        If you are leading and no one is following, maybe your just taking a walk.

                        Currently bikeless. Sold my 1980 XS1100 Special

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Aren't you following the timing method in the manual?!? This is dangerous if you're not following written directions. Do this with the bike on the centerstand.

                          Crank on 'T' mark.

                          Lube cam seats in head.

                          Place cams in head.

                          Lube cam journals

                          Place cam caps on studs (caps are numbered and lettered) with Cam DOTS lined up with ARROWS on cam caps.

                          Tighten down cam caps gradually and evenly across till they're seated.

                          Slip chain over cam gears, slip gears on cams lining up one bolt hole for each gear.

                          Install one bolt on each gear. check that DOTS and ARROWS are still aligned.

                          Check timing, hold finger in tensioner hole to take slack out of chain, rotate crank SLOWLY TWO REVOLUTIONS to be sure chain is on crank. KEEP HOLDING THE TENSION WITH YOUR FINGER till dots and arrows line up again, check "T" mark lines up.

                          If everything lines up, install tensioner. Install chain guide. Torque cam caps. Recheck shim clearances. Install second bolt on cam gears. Install valve cover.

                          SYNCHRONIZE carbs.

                          Ride.
                          Last edited by randy; 05-27-2009, 04:25 PM.

                          Comment

                          Working...
                          X