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Oil filter question ?

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  • #16
    Since the oil filter is on the pressure side of the pump, there should be enough oil in the sump to blast that air through before the engine knows what happened, if you fill the crankcase before you start it.

    If the oil filter were on the suction side, which I haven't ever seen an engine built that way, it would be a concern, since oil pumps don't produce much vacuum when pumping air.

    All in all, your engine will have plenty of oil. The oil pump will fill it within a couple seconds. Plus, your old oil should have some film strength left to keep it kosher until the new stuff arrives.

    I guess, if you are really concerned about the engine and your hands, you could fill the cup with skin cream and kill two birds with one stone.
    Ich habe dich nicht gefragt.

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    • #17
      Originally posted by fredintoon View Post
      Hi Craz,
      Yeah, I do think of skin creams. Every time I work with solvents or alkalis that degrease my skin I grab the Vaselene skin cream bottle off my wife's dresser and give my poor chapped hands a good and highly effective squirt of the stuff.
      Mind you, the TV ads that claim the stuff will make you look 10 years younger and let you meet a better class of people don't seem to be true for me.
      Hi Fred,
      Put the hand cream on BEFORE doing the job and you will find the oil grease etc has a reduced effect. I always remember this advice when i am about 1/2 way through the job

      On the oil filter question I always splash a little (table spoon) oil onto the paper element so oil passes though the filter sooner. In 2 to 3 seconds a quart of oil is on the floor, if you don't get the cover on straight DAMHIK
      Phil
      1981 XS1100 H Venturer ( Addie)
      1983 XJ 650 Maxim
      2004 Kawasaki Concours. ( Black Bear)

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      • #18
        Even better, look for a product called Glove Cote. It is a non-greasy barrier cream that you rub on before you start work, and it protects against a wide range of solvents, thinners, paint, etc, etc. Then it washes off easily with water.

        Lately, I've also taken to using HyFlex gloves from Ansell , even for jobs where you need to be able to handle small parts. I wish I had discovered these earlier.
        Ken Talbot

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        • #19
          From the looks of that diagram that randy put up it is not going to make any deference weither you prime it or not, it is going to full of oil when you start it any way, the best thing you can do is leave the kill switch off before it starts and then all the oil galleys will be full of oil before it starts, my 2 cents for what its worth.
          1979 xs1100 f
          142 main, 45 pilot, Jardeen crosover 4/2, no air box
          floats @ 25.7

          1979 xs1100 F
          1978 gl 1000 goldwing
          1981 gl 1100 goldwing
          !986 venture royale 1300

          Just an ol long haired country boy, come to town to spend some egg money
          when ya get bucked off, get back on

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          • #20
            The book says to prime it, but I never do. The oil light comes on for a couple of seconds and then goes out, haven't had a problem, and it's a lot less of a pain than priming it. I'm more worried about making a big mess priming the housing than doing damage to the engine.
            I think I have a loose screw behind the handlebars.

            '79 XS11 Standard, Jardine 4/1, Dyna DC1-1 Coils, 145 mains, 45 pilots, plastic floats - 25.7mm, XV920 fuel valves, inline fuel filters, speed bleeders, Mikes XS pods, spade-type fuse block, fork brace, progressive fork springs/shocks, manual petcocks, 750 FD, Venture cam chain tensioner, SS brake lines

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            • #21
              As you can see by my signature I have owned this bike since I drove it off the showroom floor. I have never primed the oil filter and the bike is fine. for what it's worth.
              2 - 80 LGs bought one new
              81 LH
              02 FXSTB Nighttrain
              22 FLTRK Road Glide Limited
              Jim

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