If this is your first visit, be sure to
check out the FAQ by clicking the
link above. You may have to register
before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages,
select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.
NO SANDING!!!!
Just CLEAN with plenty of NEW brake fluid. You CAN use "break clean" on JUST metal parts, BUT NOT RUBBER! DAMHIKIJK
Once all the parts are cleaned, re-assemble with plenty of new brake fluid, BENCH BLEED THE MASTER CYLINDER, and put back in operation.
Ray Matteis
KE6NHG
XS1100 E '78 (winter project)
XS1100 SF Bob Jones worked on it!
hey adleeman,
Ive cleaned many mastercylinders and washed them
in water, check the bore for any signs of scratching and pitting imo doesnt hurt to lightly sand the bore with wet and dry, rinse and blow dry well.
You can soak the rubber seals in brake fluid or apply rubber grease, assemble, bleed the master cylinder, this can be done on the bench or on the bike, bleed the callipers and you're done.
pete
new owner of
08 gen2 hayabusa
former owner
1981 xs1100 RH (aus) (5N5)
zrx carbs
18mm float height
145 main jets
38 pilots
slide needle shimmed .5mm washer
fitted with v/stax and uni pod filters
all right...not as simple as clymers makes it seem(or maybe i'm a bit slow).
took the clip off the electrical cable....does the connector just pull out?
pulled the line. the 2 screws inside the reservoir. the lever. put a screwdriver into the line end and pushed gently. no effect. is this how you get the piston and all the guts out?
do i need to pull the reservoir off...it doesnt come off with gentle pressure?
There is a C clip way down inside you have to remove.
It's shown on the left end of detail #2.
I did not remove the reservoir, sleeping dogs and all that.
#2 is the group of parts that make up the piston. Seals, clips, spring, etc. Not sure on your model, but isn't there an internal snap ring holding that assy into the MC?
1980 XS850SG - Sold
1981 XS1100LH Midnight Special (Sold) - purchased 9/29/08
Fully Vetterized and Dynojet Kit added, Heated Grips, Truck-Lite LED headlight, Accel Coils, Irridium plugs, TKAT Fork Brace, XS850LH Final Drive & Black SS Brake lines from Chacal.
Here's my web page devoted to my bike! XS/XJ User's Manuals there, and the XJ1100 Service Manual and both XS1100 Service manuals (free download!).
Whether you think you can, or you think you cannot - You're right.
-H. Ford
The electrical connector on the front MC can be removed by pushing in the plastic tab on the connector. Look for a hole on the bottom (I think) of the MC housing near where the wire goes in and you'll see it. Carefully push tab in with a small screwdriver and pull the plug out.
there's a circlip holding the piston in,
it might be covered in crud, clean the area
well, you'll need circlip pliers to pull it out,
once this is out the piston assy will slide out.
I hope u didnt damage anything poking a screwdriver
in the m/c, inspect that area well when you get it disassembled.
pete
new owner of
08 gen2 hayabusa
former owner
1981 xs1100 RH (aus) (5N5)
zrx carbs
18mm float height
145 main jets
38 pilots
slide needle shimmed .5mm washer
fitted with v/stax and uni pod filters
The clip can be a pain to remove I actually had to get pliers from mikes xs after trying all the ones at stores in town but if you have patience and good hands could probably do it with some picks or filed small screwdrivers. Good Luck if I can do that anyone can was one of first things XS TAUGHT me wish it would stop doing that
" That glass isn't half empty it has a hole in it "
That clip is tricky. Supposed to have long nose pliers.. what PITA. I did the aforementioned "steady" hand trick when I did this job years back. Glad to have it done.
in regards to the electrical connector there is a round hole in the bottom of the base in front of the connector. and on the connector itself there are what look like 2 pushdown clips but they don't push down...
the other picture is the cylinder.. the steel threaded piece for the brake line.. doesnt want to come out. no circular clip. and on the lever end there is the rubber booted piston that moves? does the boot come of to expose the piston and clip.
i really see no clip of any kind. so the pliers wouldnt do me any good at this point.
That MC looks worst than the ones on my '79F. Considering their condition and importance, get some that are in better condition from Andreas and then install the re-build kit. That's what I did and got back on the road a heck of a lot sooner. My logic was, and still is, you gotta get it to stop before you get it to go!!
1980G Standard, Restored
Kerker 4 - 1
850 Rear End Mod
2-21 Flashing LED Arrays on either side of license plate for Brake Light Assist, 1100 Lumen Cree Aux Lights,
Progressive springs, Showa rear shocks
Automatic CCT 1980GH Special, Restored
Stock Exhaust, New Handlebars, 1" Spacer in Fork Springs, Automatic CCT, Showa Rear Shocks '82 XJ1100 (Sold)
Automatic CCT, RC Engineering 4 X 1 Exhaust, K&N Pods, #50 Pilot Jets, YICS Eliminator. Sorely missed.
In that first picture, push that tab down in that hole and pull the switch out. Might have to wiggle it, but not too hard, they're kinda fragile. The tab won't push down very far.
Comment