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  • master cylinder rebuild kit

    i've got the kit. i've got the clymers. any sanding of the cylinder required?
    any tips or suggestions or warnings?
    Tony Leeman
    79 xs11 f, touring
    adleeman@yahoo.com
    Lakeland, FL

  • #2
    NO SANDING!!!!
    Just CLEAN with plenty of NEW brake fluid. You CAN use "break clean" on JUST metal parts, BUT NOT RUBBER! DAMHIKIJK
    Once all the parts are cleaned, re-assemble with plenty of new brake fluid, BENCH BLEED THE MASTER CYLINDER, and put back in operation.
    Ray Matteis
    KE6NHG
    XS1100 E '78 (winter project)
    XS1100 SF Bob Jones worked on it!

    Comment


    • #3
      hey adleeman,
      Ive cleaned many mastercylinders and washed them
      in water, check the bore for any signs of scratching and pitting imo doesnt hurt to lightly sand the bore with wet and dry, rinse and blow dry well.
      You can soak the rubber seals in brake fluid or apply rubber grease, assemble, bleed the master cylinder, this can be done on the bench or on the bike, bleed the callipers and you're done.
      pete


      new owner of
      08 gen2 hayabusa


      former owner
      1981 xs1100 RH (aus) (5N5)
      zrx carbs
      18mm float height
      145 main jets
      38 pilots
      slide needle shimmed .5mm washer
      fitted with v/stax and uni pod filters

      [url]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3pA8dwxmAVA&feature=mfu_in_order&list=UL[/url]

      Comment


      • #4
        master cylinder rebuild kit

        all right...not as simple as clymers makes it seem(or maybe i'm a bit slow).

        took the clip off the electrical cable....does the connector just pull out?

        pulled the line. the 2 screws inside the reservoir. the lever. put a screwdriver into the line end and pushed gently. no effect. is this how you get the piston and all the guts out?

        do i need to pull the reservoir off...it doesnt come off with gentle pressure?

        thanx for your patience....
        Tony Leeman
        79 xs11 f, touring
        adleeman@yahoo.com
        Lakeland, FL

        Comment


        • #5
          There is a C clip way down inside you have to remove.
          It's shown on the left end of detail #2.
          I did not remove the reservoir, sleeping dogs and all that.

          XS1100SF
          XS1100F

          Comment


          • #6
            clarification

            detail #2 being the blowup of the rebuild kit?

            how did you get it out?

            do i just pull the electrical connector hard aftter removing the clip? the assembly is still on the bike at this point.....
            Tony Leeman
            79 xs11 f, touring
            adleeman@yahoo.com
            Lakeland, FL

            Comment


            • #7
              #2 is the group of parts that make up the piston. Seals, clips, spring, etc. Not sure on your model, but isn't there an internal snap ring holding that assy into the MC?
              1980 XS850SG - Sold
              1981 XS1100LH Midnight Special (Sold) - purchased 9/29/08
              Fully Vetterized and Dynojet Kit added, Heated Grips, Truck-Lite LED headlight, Accel Coils, Irridium plugs, TKAT Fork Brace, XS850LH Final Drive & Black SS Brake lines from Chacal.
              Here's my web page devoted to my bike! XS/XJ User's Manuals there, and the XJ1100 Service Manual and both XS1100 Service manuals (free download!).

              Whether you think you can, or you think you cannot - You're right.
              -H. Ford

              Comment


              • #8
                The electrical connector on the front MC can be removed by pushing in the plastic tab on the connector. Look for a hole on the bottom (I think) of the MC housing near where the wire goes in and you'll see it. Carefully push tab in with a small screwdriver and pull the plug out.
                2H7 (79) owned since '89
                3H3 owned since '06

                "If it ain't broke, modify it"

                Comment


                • #9
                  there's a circlip holding the piston in,
                  it might be covered in crud, clean the area
                  well, you'll need circlip pliers to pull it out,
                  once this is out the piston assy will slide out.
                  I hope u didnt damage anything poking a screwdriver
                  in the m/c, inspect that area well when you get it disassembled.
                  pete


                  new owner of
                  08 gen2 hayabusa


                  former owner
                  1981 xs1100 RH (aus) (5N5)
                  zrx carbs
                  18mm float height
                  145 main jets
                  38 pilots
                  slide needle shimmed .5mm washer
                  fitted with v/stax and uni pod filters

                  [url]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3pA8dwxmAVA&feature=mfu_in_order&list=UL[/url]

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Damn Clip

                    The clip can be a pain to remove I actually had to get pliers from mikes xs after trying all the ones at stores in town but if you have patience and good hands could probably do it with some picks or filed small screwdrivers. Good Luck if I can do that anyone can was one of first things XS TAUGHT me wish it would stop doing that
                    " That glass isn't half empty it has a hole in it "

                    79 SF set to cruise

                    80special work in progress

                    and now 78 needs work

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      That clip is tricky. Supposed to have long nose pliers.. what PITA. I did the aforementioned "steady" hand trick when I did this job years back. Glad to have it done.

                      Definitely went in easier than it came out! :S
                      Corey J. Bennett
                      '79 XS1100SF

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        very confused

                        all right here are some crappy pictures?





                        in regards to the electrical connector there is a round hole in the bottom of the base in front of the connector. and on the connector itself there are what look like 2 pushdown clips but they don't push down...

                        the other picture is the cylinder.. the steel threaded piece for the brake line.. doesnt want to come out. no circular clip. and on the lever end there is the rubber booted piston that moves? does the boot come of to expose the piston and clip.

                        i really see no clip of any kind. so the pliers wouldnt do me any good at this point.

                        thanxs again for your help
                        Last edited by Ken Talbot; 02-20-2009, 10:28 PM.
                        Tony Leeman
                        79 xs11 f, touring
                        adleeman@yahoo.com
                        Lakeland, FL

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Do yourself a favor

                          That MC looks worst than the ones on my '79F. Considering their condition and importance, get some that are in better condition from Andreas and then install the re-build kit. That's what I did and got back on the road a heck of a lot sooner. My logic was, and still is, you gotta get it to stop before you get it to go!!
                          1980G Standard, Restored
                          Kerker 4 - 1
                          850 Rear End Mod
                          2-21 Flashing LED Arrays on either side of license plate for Brake Light Assist, 1100 Lumen Cree Aux Lights,
                          Progressive springs, Showa rear shocks
                          Automatic CCT
                          1980GH Special, Restored
                          Stock Exhaust, New Handlebars, 1" Spacer in Fork Springs, Automatic CCT, Showa Rear Shocks
                          '82 XJ1100 (Sold)
                          Automatic CCT, RC Engineering 4 X 1 Exhaust, K&N Pods, #50 Pilot Jets, YICS Eliminator. Sorely missed.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            electrical switch

                            In that first picture, push that tab down in that hole and pull the switch out. Might have to wiggle it, but not too hard, they're kinda fragile. The tab won't push down very far.
                            2H7 (79) owned since '89
                            3H3 owned since '06

                            "If it ain't broke, modify it"

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              partial success

                              all right got the electrical out...



                              This is the end where the clip to hold the piston is ? or the screw end?


                              thanx for the assist
                              Last edited by Ken Talbot; 02-20-2009, 10:29 PM.
                              Tony Leeman
                              79 xs11 f, touring
                              adleeman@yahoo.com
                              Lakeland, FL

                              Comment

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