Kick it for a while, then split

[3Phase]

There are lots of used cranks on ebay. Just search XS1100 Crankshaft.

Yep, I've had a few of them on my Watch list this week so I bought a local one that I can pick up and save shipping. Those things are heavy!

Now I just have to hope it fits and isn't tore up from the floor up. I don't want to wind up having to pull the engine and change bearings after every third tank of fuel and on alternate oil changes. That would totally suck pounds of pondwater through a beautifully restored third reich swizzle stick.


Regards,

Scott

[50gary]

For the record I kick started my 1979 standard today it was easy started right up.
Cheers, 50gary

[3Phase]

For the record I kick started my 1979 standard today it was easy started right up.
Cheers, 50gary

I'll be doing that too in a (hopefully) short period of time; still need an actual kicker lever but I'm picking up some more parts tomorrow and taking the rest of the weekend off!


Regards,

Scott

[50gary]

I didn't read all three pages of this thread but my kick lever came not on the engine, but bolted to the frame above the transmission. 1979 standard.
Cheers, 50gary

[3Phase]

I didn't read all three pages of this thread but my kick lever came not on the engine, but bolted to the frame above the transmission. 1979 standard.
Cheers, 50gary

Gary, none of the XS11s after 1979 came with kickers, they're all-electric start. You have to remove the oil pan and the clutch cover to install the internal kicker parts from a '78 or '79 and then find a kick lever.

Honestly, it's okay that you didn't read the whole story!

I really, really, wish I hadn't written three pages with another twenty or thirty possible pages pending. This thread was supposed to be a relatively simple query about whether it was easier to install a kicker to delay the work and expense of splitting the engine cases to replace a failing starter clutch.

Both thread and work have turned into a full-length novel as the actual repairs that are necessary dried out and matured enough to give Tolstoy a good run -- with 8"x10", color glossy photos with circles and arrows and a paragraph on the back explaining what each one was to be used as... anyway! I have located most of the parts to put Columbo back together so it is, once again, a matter of cleaning, fitting and assembling the bike as parts arrive.


My original piston crowns have raised numbers and handwritten, "3H5 29" or "3H5 62"


"New" crankshaft and connecting rods from a 1981 XS1100LH Midnight Special


The "new" 1981 XS1100LH Midnight Special engine case that matches the crankshaft


My original cylinders and pistons with the cyclinders honing out nicely. The piston crowns were all clean but the undersides, some of the rings and all of the oil rails and spacers were heavily coked and vents clogged. That is the source of the erratic oil consumption that has puzzled me almost a year



Behold! The mighty XS1100GLH! :P


Regards,

Scott

[3Phase]

Bad Monkey!

Or: Beneath the Carbon of the Apes!

So I'm scraping off the carbon and the old cylinder head gasket and I find more signs of distinctly simian workmanship between cylinder #1 and #2.




I believe I can smooth them down.


Regards,

Scott

[DiverRay]

Scott, Use the largest 600 grit sand paper you can find, and put it on a pane of glass. You can then set the head on it and swill it around to smooth out the sealing surface. Not exact, but it works....

[3Phase]

Scott, Use the largest 600 grit sand paper

Thanks, Ray. I can't get the little 6mm studs out of the bottom of the head without causing even more damage than the monkey so I can't glass it. The gouges are too deep to remove them without having the head milled and that's just not going to happen this time around.

I cleaned it with a wire wheel to remove the rest of the carbon, then dressed the ridges with my trusty flat bastard diamond file and followed that up with some 1000 grit wet/dry sandpaper on a wooden block and some WD40. I lapped the valves and reassembled the head to check the new valve clearance before I bolt it up to the engine -- keeping in mind the experience of others that bent their valves on the bench!



So far everything looks good but I do need a few new shims... tomorrow!


Regards,

Scott

[3Phase]

Bent Valve and the Bad Starter Clutch

Well... I did it. I am complete.

I bent the #3 exhaust valve while I was putting it back in the head. GarthXS is kindly hooking me up with a spare valve but I am a moron.

The circle is now complete. When I left you I was but the learner. Now I am the moron!


Moving right along... while I wasn't busy messing up parts I found the source of the original problem that prompted this thread: the slipping starter clutch. The clutch journal surface is worn and scuffed. Fortunately, before splitting the case I got a replacement from Andreas Weiss instead of buying a repair kit. A repair kit wouldn't have lasted very long before it started to slip, again, and I'd have been splitting the case to fix it, again.

Here are the two starter clutches. The good one is on the left, the bad one is on the right.




Regards,

Scott

[randy]

Good pics!

Looks like I'll be splitting the cases this next winter, my starter clutch has begun to slip. Has anyone done a clean-up of the journal surface? On cranks we used to use crocus cloth to polish the journals?

[DGXSER]

Just as an educational thing for a fellow Moe-ron, the one on the right looks like the gear is in a different spot and the length of the spline shaft looks different. Never having one of these beast apart this far, my assumption is that the gear slides on that splined shaft and they just happen to be in different positions of travel?

[3Phase]

Thanks, Randy.

This one's too worn for crocus cloth. The wear pattern shows the surface has waves in it from the starter clutch rollers. It would have to be turned down to get rid of the waves without ruining the fit for the rest of the assembly riding on the journal. It could be done by hand but it is a hardened surface and it would take hours to get it right. It's not worth it for this one.


Regards,

Scott

[3Phase]

Just as an educational thing for a fellow Moe-ron, the one on the right looks like the gear is in a different spot and the length of the spline shaft looks different. Never having one of these beast apart this far, my assumption is that the gear slides on that splined shaft and they just happen to be in different positions of travel?

Hey, Moe! <chuckling>

Don, they're both the same. I don't know where the actinic blue highlights came from but it shows up the good part and makes the picture look cool.

One shaft slid farther out than the other when I put them next to each other for the picture. The Idler Gear/journal isn't splined to the shaft, it fits inside the Starter Clutch Outer Assembly. That assembly is bolted to the Primary Chain Driven Gear which is splined to the Primary Shaft with much larger splines in the middle of the Primary Shaft.

A couple of pictures would probably help to see where all this stuff goes so here are the part layouts from Yamaha. I don't like deep-linking to web sites so they may disappear when the Haventree Attack Shark shows up at my house to have a word about copyrights.


Starter Clutch: The whole Starter Clutch Assembly is splined on the Primary shaft.

Item #4 is the Idler Gear shown with the worn journal and the Primary Chain goes around item #10. You can see the large splines for the driven gear.

http://parts.yamaha-motor.com/partim...9870,6,0,sport


Primary Shaft: the Starter Clutch Assembly is not numbered but shown below item #2.

http://parts.yamaha-motor.com/partim...4281,6,0,sport


Regards,

Scott

[3Phase]

It's been a good day. If everything goes the way it did today I'll be riding tomorrow.

Head torqued down; ignition cleaned, greased and installed




TDC located with a dial indicator




Timing pointer set to TDC



Cams set to TDC; valves shimmed



Finally, the XS850G kicker is installed in my XS1100G!




Time to knock off for the night and have some fun!


Regards,

Scott

[DiverRay]

So Scott, when I ride the MNS down for the June Rally, you'll be there??!!?? I DO hope to see you again sooner rather than later!