Shtuck float pin

[rpgoerlich]

Looks like the PO had driven in #1 float pin and left nothing to grab for extraction... Going to pull it from the rack. Thinking about putting some kind of spacer in between the float pillars to keep from breaking one off. Having a third hand top hold that carb while tapping on the other end to hopefully drive it out. I didn't want to waste a float and pin by cutting it out, but I have access to another of each If I need to.

Any thoughts before I perform surgery ?

Thanks,

[LuckyEddie]

Stuck Float Pin

Try pushing it out with a slightly smaller pin/nail by using a pair of channel locks. Get the pin/nail lined up and put the channel locks on the pin/nail and the opposite side of the pin tower and give it a gentle squeeze. Caution is still recomended.

[DGXSER]

I had the same situation on mine, the head had been cut off. I used a small nail and screwdriver handle for a hammer and gently drove it out. I got lucky I suppose and it came out relatively easy.

[tarzan]

Those posts break easily.Do a search there are a few good threads about this very problem.It sounds like you have the right idea though.Good luck.
Rick

[John]

Check out this post, page 4.
http://xs11.com/forum/showthread.php...in+tool&page=4

[81xsproject]

What ever you do use, don't use something pointy. Since the pin is stuck on the head side, if you try and drive it out with something pointy, it can flare the end you are beating on and get it stuck even worse. I experienced this problem on a set of FJ carbs while using my automatic center punch. This tool had worked wonderfully in the past, but the pointy tip did me in. After I cut the pins/floats out with a dremel cutting wheel, I flattened the tip of the center punch to avoid future issues. I also would like to make a brace for the tops of the post so that while you were trying to drive out the pins, you would have the bracing of BOTH posts.

I am not sure why, but the metal that the pins are made from is very soft. Instead of your spacer idea, which may not leave you clearance to get the bowls back on, I suggest chucking the pins in a drill or dremmel and use them as a lathe to file down both the pin head and widened shoulder. This will allow for easy future removal and the bowl is desined so that the pin can't slide out of the holes. I don't understand why they used shouldered pins in the first place...?

[tarzan]

I took my float pins out and replace them with nails of the same diameter.I should probably pull my carbs to see how they are holding up.I was worried they might rust.That was months ago and the bike still runs good and I hate to pull the carbs if it runs good.

[thewiz]

Another member...

like to make a brace for the tops of the post so that while you were trying to drive out the pins, you would have the bracing of BOTH posts.

MRO, made a cool little thumbscrew press that had center bracing.... of course I couldn't find the photo just now but I know it's in here ... somewhere.

[skids]

Man, you need to use one of those pin press devices invented by Ken Talbot! There is nothing better.

[Ken Talbot]

Here's what they look like"



Only problem - the batch I made up is all gone. I've been working with Mike Flynn since we met in Idaho last summer on a very sweet aluminum version that is made to high precision on some very fancy machining equipment. Mike's latest sample is like a piece of fine jewellery!

If you haven't already gone in with something else, and if you can wait for snail mail delivery, drop me a PM and "let's talk". I would rather loan you my last steel prototype than read here about you dealing with a busted-off post.

[rpgoerlich]

After removing the carb from the rack, I tried to clean up what was left of the head end and tried to pull it from the other end, no go. Ended up opening up the float pivot, took it off the pin and cut a section out of the center of the pin. Pulled the end out from the center. Pushed the head end out a bit but I had already buggered up inside so I cut off the head end and pulled it out from the center as well. Float screen had alot of trash behind it. Float will live. Have another pin to use.

Carbs 1 & 2 were overflowing. Going to reset float heights in the morning to 25.7mm. Had pulled octy and plugged PRI until I get a new diaphram for it.

I searched and read what I could today.

Appreciate the help!

[rpgoerlich]

Interesting tool. Looks like it slips over the pillars and keeps them from stress while you push the pin out ?

Thanks for the offer too! Maybe next time(hopefully not!).

[fredintoon]

Automatic (AKA spring or spring-loaded) centerpunch.
Once it's out clip off the head, you don't need it and sand down the pin so it's a slip fit. Once the carb bowl is back in place the pin can't go anywhere.

[jetmechmarty]

This was the problem that caused my fire. My right outboard carb has a JB WELD repair on the post and the float hung up on it. The dreaded PO did it. I would like to replace the carburetor body.

[DGXSER]

Hey Marty,
I thought I was going to be in the same boat for a while with my stuck mixture screw. If you keep an eye on fleabay you can find some "parts" carbs now and then, or go to your local MC scrap yard and look through their pile. Mine has an old school bus filled with nothing but carbs and alot have been robbed of parts. Of course they were insistant I needed to buy their full rack though. Fortunately, I was able to get my screw loose, so to speak.

One question for those in the know, will the carb from an XS650 pull out of the rack (of 2) and slide into the 1100 rack? I understand some jetting will probably be required.