digging into the tranny

[adam79]

sanding

Is a little copperish discoloration normal after sanding the steel clutch plates? I've been sanding this one in my hand for awhile with 600 grit sandpaper, and all the glaze with any texture has been removed, but it has left behind a 'stain' (for lack of a better word.) Should I be worried or is this alright? If I keep sanding like a madman is it possible to remove enough steel to throw the plate out of spec?

It is hard to tell from the picture, but there is definitely discoloration

[bikerphil]

As long as the glazing is gone, I'd say you should be all set. No need to over-do it.

[trbig]

Naw!! Keep scrubbing away!! We wanna know what those things are made out of!

Tod

PS. Ummm... I am kidding..

[adam79]

if I scrub it hard enough I will get a cross hatching effect

just out of curiousity, what would happen if all the steel plates were replaced with more friction plates? so basically, a clutch with 15 friction plates

[DiverRay]

just out of curiosity, what would happen if all the steel plates were replaced with more friction plates? so basically, a clutch with 15 friction plates

You would then have a short lived digital clutch! There would be NO slipping for takeoff, just off or on. The fibers plates would probably last about 50 miles, give or take...
The hard steel and the soft friction are what makes the clutch work correctly. You need the difference in order to regulate the clutch for a smooth take off.
The best thing you can do for these old clutches, REPLACE THE SPRINGS WITH NEW HEAVY DUTY PARTS!! This is the NUMBER ONE way to get a better clutch with more life.

[adam79]

star plate

I got the star plate re-attached, springs aligned correctly, and every bolt is torqued to 7ft-lbs. The thing is, Im not completely confident that the posts have fully seated inside the grooves on the star plate. I cannot confirm by sight because the view is obscured. I looked at some pictures on the tech tips of the star plate before removal, and Im still not 100% sure if mine is down all the way. What will happen if I ride the bike with the plate not fully seated? How do I know for sure? I should have taken a picture to remind me of its exact position before I took it off.

[DGXSER]

That was mine before removal. I think if you got the bolts tightend down to torque, either you got the plate lined up, or you would knwo it by needing a new one based upon what I have read on the subject here at CH 11.

[adam79]

thats what I figured, it is on there nice and snug. I'll find out soon enough though.

[adam79]

exhaust gaskets

Is there an easier way way to get these old gaskets out? There really stuck in there seat, and Im having to take a hammer and screwdriver to them to break/twist them apart. I have a dirt devil to suck up the small pieces as I go, but Im afraid Im going to make a bike scape or gash in the case that I dont want to be there.

[adam79]

OK, never mind. I soon found out that once you get an edge pried up, they will unravel as you pull. They looked deceiving at first because everything was black.

[adam79]

Clutch adjustment

Alright, everything is buttoned up, torqued and ready to go. No parts left over, and no tools missing. I still need to bleed my brakes and adjust the clutch though..

I have never adjusted a motorcycle clutch. My cable is not attached at either end. The tech tip instructs on how to adjust the clutch assuming that your cable is already attached at the handlebar..even then, it still is a bit confusing cause I've never done it before. So, where do I start?

[DGXSER]

Adam, clutch cable out should be ok, since the first step is to put slack in the cable anyway. In the center of the clutch is the adjusting screw, not the nut you tightened to 51 ft-lbs behind the clutch side engine cover, this is inside the cover that comes off with 2 screws where your clutch cable comes in. On that screw is a nut. Loosen the nut, then tighten the screw in until it just makes contact and loosen 1/8 turn per the tech tip directions. just as the tech tip says, hold the screw in place while you tighten the locking nut.

From there install your clutch cable and adjust it at the lever.

[Ivan]

Alright, everything is buttoned up, torqued and ready to go. No parts left over, and no tools missing. I still need to bleed my brakes and adjust the clutch though..

I have never adjusted a motorcycle clutch. My cable is not attached at either end. The tech tip instructs on how to adjust the clutch assuming that your cable is already attached at the handlebar..even then, it still is a bit confusing cause I've never done it before. So, where do I start?

First off, you did something wrong. There should be at least two of your most expensive tools missing, and you should have a hand full of bolts left over that look nothing like the ones you spent three hours looking for.

On my XS, the cable seems to be a bit short. I would assume that the adjusment screw under the cover needs to be set so there is a touch of free play in the lever. Then you would adjust the handle adjuster to just take up the slack in the cable. If I do this on my XS, the cable is about 1/8" too short to attach to the clutch lever. So I just put a bunch of slack in the adjustment screw, put the cable in, then adjusted the screw so there is just a touch of slack in the cable. Works for me.

[adam79]

ok, so assuming that my clutch cable is long enough, all I have to do is adjust the lock nut and screw as directed, then hook up my cable at the engine side, then hook it up at the handle bar and adjust for some slack? (I was told that I want a little slack in the line)

[adam79]

almost

Adjust the clutch lever with the adjustment at the lever so there is ~5mm in your lever. Lock down with lock down adjustment with disc.

Is this referring to the distance gap between the lever and the lever holder (on the handle bar)?