digging into the tranny

[adam79]

Im following the tech tip on the 1st/2nd gear fix. I had to flip the bike prematurely, because I could only get the help at a certain time, so I am still doing the 'pre flip' disassembly to the bike, and I am stuck. I cant tell from the tech tip what to do. I know I need to get that clutch cover off (the main big cover, not the small cover plate with 2 screws), but do I need to do anything to the clutch adjuster lock nut, and the throwout rod before I take the the cover off?

[bikerphil]

No. First, slacken up the cable up at the lever. Next, bend up the little cable retainer clip down at the engine side end of cable. Take a screwdriver and carefully pry up on the lever at the engine case so you can pop out the cable. No need to remove the 12mm nut and the lever.

[adam79]

I cannot seem to loosen the foot peg bolt! I dont know if the bike being upside down has anything to do with it, but it just WONT BUDGE. Im using a breaker bar too. It actually will tighten and loosen a smidge, but within only a certain sliver of distance, but nothing further. I used PB Blaster twice. nothing.

[DGXSER]

Adam, that is a through bolt if I am not mistaken and will loosen from the bolt or nut side on either side of the bike.

Is it turning with no result, or will not budge. Mine came loose pretty easy, but my bike has lived indoors most all of its life.

[adam79]

it is just not budging at all, at least from this side. So, if this bolt goes all the way through, how should I support the engine if I take it out? (the bike is upside down, so I dont know how.)

[bikerphil]

Take the nut off first on the other side. Spray PB blaster around the engine mounts where the bolt passes thru. Tap the center of the threaded end with a center punch or drift pin to drive it thru. Once you get the bolt moving, slide in another bolt or a screwdriver temporarily to hold up the motor. I usually take the bolt out and remove the footpegs, then slide it back in all the way till the repair is finished.

[DGXSER]

Adam,

I did mine on the centerstand, so not sure how it will work upside down. For me, all I needed was to loosen it enough to let the pegs swivel to get access to the bolts and get the side covers off. After that, they do not get in the way of anything.

[Ivan]

that through bolt is only one of four attachment points for the engine. The other three are in the front. Nothing will happen if you pull that bolt. I just loosened it to move the foot peg enough to get that last bolt out of the clutch cover. If you do pull it out, the engine may sag a bit, but not anything drastic.

On mine the nut is on the left side of the bike. Not sure if this is the way it is or just on mine.

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Adam,

The others have already answered it, but I had to check the tech tip to make sure I did tell about it, and I did! Just wanted to be sure I wasn't steering folks wrong!

Next, you'll need to loosen the nut/bolt that holds the driver's foot pegs, so that you can pivot them up out of the way to get access to the side covers, clutch and gear shift lever covers.

T.C.

[trbig]

I helped a guy with his XJ one time that had this bolt/mount so corroded up that it would barely budge. We ended up using a shop hammer and a long punch to get it out. It ended up ruining the bolts threads... but we got it. I'm sure Andreas has several of these laying around if you need one.


You may get by by backing the nut off, having the nut still on the bolt but sticking out further than the threads of the bolt and hit that nut squarely with a hammer. You won't need this bolt all the way out to rotate that left peg out of the way. If you take the other two bolts out of the right rear foot peg bracket and remove it, then remove the right peg, you should be able to drive that mount/bolt out plenty far enough to be able to rotate the left peg out of the way.

Tod

[adam79]

Hey Adam,

The others have already answered it, but I had to check the tech tip to make sure I did tell about it, and I did! Just wanted to be sure I wasn't steering folks wrong!

T.C.

Yes, you did mention it, and I read it. I just had no idea that it was 1 long bolt. That freaking thing was STUCK like no other! hahaha, I bent an extension getting it to crack! But I got it.


I slide the cover off, and when I did, the kick start fell out. Is this bad? Is there a specific way it is supposed to go in? It looks like there is a specific part of the case that the hook at the end of the spring rests on.



The tech tip is working great by the way TC!

[bikerphil]

No, the kickstarter can be put back in before you put that side cover back on when you're all finished. I've eliminated the kickstarter on both of my 79's.

[adam79]

Clutch Springs.

I measured the springs on the star plate. 5 were around 43.1 to 43.5mm, and the last was about 42.5. Does having one spring that is lower than the average length make a difference?

[DiverRay]

Does having one spring that is lower than the average length make a difference?

Only if you like to go... I would replace the springs with new ones. I've found that MOST of the springs in the clutches are bad, just from being compressed for almost 30 years. For about $12.00, you get a new set. JMHO

[adam79]

Did I Miss Something?

I got the clutch off, and what I see is not what is in the walkthrough. Am I supposed to to remove all those gears like in TC's picture??? I re read the walkthrough, and I cant find where it says to remove these gears. The Clymer manual doesnt say either (well it does, but it has you take apart the engine and tranny completely.)

Here is the walkthrough.


Here is mine: