digging into the tranny

[trbig]

Oh, and no offense meant toward those with extra plates

If meaning the one in my bike versus the one in your pointy head.. offense taken!


BUT...

to compensate for him being too cheap to just order a new set of springs.

I do resemble that remark! lol.


Tod

[DGXSER]

So your saying the clutch plate idea is kind of like the old "meat loaf and the pan" story?

No Tod, I was not calling you a meat head or a loaf...well...not really.

[DiverRay]

The extra steel plate will work, but the adjustment will be harder for you to do! If you are NOT that sure of your abilities at this point, I would NOT add the extra plate. Do as Prom said, and put in new HEAVY DUTY clutch springs. I've found the friction plates will last about 50K miles, depending on the rider. After that, I would replace them even if they looked like they are still within the limits. As you are fixing the transmission, and don't really want to take the clutch cover off again, just replace the parts. Some of the suppliers listed in threads on this site have good prices for good parts.
Don't forget to check the clutch cable, as old age and lack of lube MAY cause it to bind, and that will NOT help.

[Shappers]

If I remove the the internal kick start mechanism, do I have to seal the hole it make in the case?

It is not left completely open as you do need to refit the part shown in the bottom of the picture. This is how engines not fitted with a kickstarter mechanism are assembled.

I retrofitted the kickstarter mechanism into my engine (top of the picture) and the part at the bottom is what came out.

The outer case is sealed by a hard plastic plug. I knocked mine out to make a hole. It looks to be a standard part but it is not shown on any fiches so I'm not sure that you could order a new one.

[trbig]

It looks to be a standard part but it is not shown on any fiches

90338-30096-00 PLUG

the part at the bottom is what came out.

That part has been in every motor I have tore apart.. never seen it missing. I'm not sure what it's for and don't see it in the parts fiche where I looked, but it has been there??

Tod

[DGXSER]

Looks like the part laying down is the same part that is mounted, it just has the gear and shaft removed from it.

[adam79]

Im about to order the parts I need, and I have 3 options so far, all online, all different prices. I entered the same parts on each site, and this was my results:

Babbitts for a total of $97

Bikebandit for a total of $113

Extreme motorsports for a total of $120

Does anyone have anything good or bad to say about their experience with these 3 online dealers? Recommendations? The online reviews I read say that almost all of them have bad customer service and that their orders took 2 to 4 weeks.

[trbig]

Post the parts you are looking to buy and maybe we can help...

Tod

[bikerphil]

Bikebandit

Bikebandit for a total of $113

The name says it all.

[adam79]

It's all good, cause I went up to the Yamaha dealer to pick up some yamabond today, and just out of curiosity I asked how much the parts would cost that I wanted, expecting them to be outrageously priced. They ended up being a few dollars more than Babbitts, and they had the 6 new clutch springs in stock. Their friction plates were $9 a piece, where the online stores were up to $11. In fact, everything I ordered was just pocket change more or less than online. Plus, I didn't have to pay shipping. Because I don't want to open this part of the bike up for a long time, I decided to go with brand new parts. clutch springs, shift pedal torsion spring, friction plates and exhaust gaskets. I have no idea what shape my old friction disks are in, but if they are in specs, can they be saved or reused??

[bikerphil]

I have no idea what shape my old friction disks are in, but if they are in specs, can they be saved or reused??

You never know if you or someone else could use them someday. I have a couple of used sets, but I hate to throw any XS parts away.

[trbig]

I just wish you had posted the parts earlier before you bought them. Could have saved you quite a bit of money. BUT.. at least if you have any problems, you know you can take them back to where they came from.

Tod

[adam79]

Well, I did my research, but obviously I didnt do enough. lesson learned. This is off topic, but I am almost certain that I am leaking brake fluid out of my rear caliper. would it be the seal on the pistons?

[XSPastor]

Well, I did my research, but obviously I didnt do enough. lesson learned. This is off topic, but I am almost certain that I am leaking brake fluid out of my rear caliper. would it be the seal on the pistons?

Why are you only almost certain? Clean the caliper up and then have someone work the pedal while you closely watch the caliper. It could be the line, the bleeder valve, the line fitting, or the caliper piston seal. Check everything all the way back up to the master cylinder. The caliper usually has to be pretty chewed up before the piston seal will leak. You may have to remove the dust boot to see if fluid is leaking around the piston. If it's pretty wet behind that dust cover, the piston seal is probably shot. It's possible too that a PO damaged the seal in disassembly/reassembly. if you can't find a leak, you'll have to check out the master cylinder.

[adam79]

haha, I dont know why I put almost. I meant, MOST CERTAINLY