digging into the tranny

[adam79]

Thanks. I was just reading my manual and I cant find a torque spec for those t-30 torx bolts. Is there one?

[John]

Most other fasteners in the engine are around 7 ft. lbs, so I'd feel ok torquing them to that. Hell, I would just use my 'torque wrist' on those fasteners anyway.

[TopCatGr58]

What John said,

Those torx bolts are countersunk, mostly just to hold the bearing in place and aligned with the oil lubrication port, it's machined to secure the bearing quite snugly, the bolts mostly keep it in place, but don't really have much stress on them. The threadlock is just to keep them from working loose under vibration of that bearing/countershaft.
T.C.

[DGXSER]

Adam,
Glad to hear you are getting it back together. It took me alot more time than you to get that countershaft back in. Patience is a virtue and I was never acused of being virtuous. Great job on it so far. Just out of curiosity, how did the kickstart gears effect the project?

I did not see a torq spec in Clymers either, so I just went hand tight to about 1/2 my full wrist strength. I figured with locktite to hold them I was not gonna give them a chance at stripping out.

If your engine is like mine was, the hard part from here on out will be getting the old gasket off the engine for the shift side cover. That was one nights work right there.

[adam79]

The internal kick-start mechanism made things harder than they already were. It got in the way, and made it so there was almost no room for maneuverability. I'm going to remove it completely here soon, but for now I just don't have the right material to seal the hole in the side cover.

I was curious though, does having a foot long extension on my torque wrench affect the the read out on my wrench, as in, am I applying more/less torque than the torque wrench is indicating?

[DGXSER]

Torque and your wrench

I do not believe your torque wrench should read any different, it should just take less effort on your part to apply the same amount of torque to the bolt. Of course this is assuming that your extension is AFTER the torque measurement is being taken on the wrench, although I don't see how it could not be.

And here I have thought of putting a kick starter on mine. I just like the look of a kick starter. and the knowledge that you could kick it over if need be.

[adam79]

from what I hear it is hard to kick start an 1100

[adam79]

shift problems

I'm having big problems shifting. My best guess is that I may have fumbled with the shift fork drum while the counter shaft was out. I may have turned it to another position and put the counter shaft back in with the shift drum in a different position than when the c-shaft was taken out. But would this even cause a problem???

And the problem is this: I cannot shift nicely through all the gears. It will only shift back and forth through 4th & 5th gear, never down past forth. You can twist the shift pawl as far as it will go, and it doesnt seem to grab at all. then, if I skrew around with the gears by turing the back wheel (which spins freely with no resistance, and the gears mesh/turn nicely as well) and twist the shift pawl, the tranny will SOMETIMES randomly shift down to third. Then it will only shift 1st through 3rd gear, and not back up to 4th.

Also sometimes, the drum wont fully turn into the position it is supposed to be in. What I mean by that is, normally the forks run through their channels on the drum as you shift, and when they reach the end of their track, they stop. But, for example, when I shift to 5th the fork that is supposed to stop at the end of its track stops before, almost a 1/4in away from where it normally stops. So BASICALLY it doesnt quite seem to shift fully into gear, but it's weird because it doesnt happen all the time.

Here is a picture of the fork drum/forks/c-shaft when the bike is in 5th, and also a picture of the shift pawl when the bike is in 5th. Does the position of the drum look right?





Now here is a picture of the fork drum/forks/c-shaft and also the pawl when the bike is shifted down to 4th. It just doesnt look like its going all the way into gear! and it wont go any farther.

[DGXSER]

Your a notch above...

I think your shift pawl is off. Here is a picture of mine during disassembly when the bike was in fourth gear. Note that theshift pawls lever location compared to yours.



Try lining it up as shown here and see if that helps. Notice the notch in the lever is centered between the two "post" on the drum. Also make sure the dots align between the pawls.

[bikerphil]

not shifting properly

Try turning just the shift drum 'n see if it goes thru all five, while turning the rear wheel from time to time.

[adam79]

If I take a large screwdriver, I can turn the drum through all 5 gears. I do have to fumble with the wheel a bit, but it works.

[trbig]

First... on the kickstarter, you can take the guts out of the engine and just put the gear and spring on under the clutch cover like this...







Make sure to hook the spring over spot provided for it so it doesn't flop around in there and mess with anything else. This will let you use the sidecover you have until you find one with a plug in it.. or just order a plug from Yamaha. It will make the kickstarter inoperable, but I have been running mine for a few years like this now because that happened to be the clutch cover I had polished up.

On the tranny, you check alignment of things while in 2nd gear. Make sure these lines and dots line up that are shown with the red line...





And finally... are you positive that the correct shift fork got put in the correct spot and turned the right way? As far as the fork button not coming to the stop at the end of the slot in the drum.. it should stop just short of that.. not be bumping into it every time.

[DGXSER]

Is it me, or does the fifth gear shift fork look slightly bent? Would that effect the other gears?

[trbig]

Is it me, or does the fifth gear shift fork look slightly bent?

Hmmm... good call. In the pics (Hard to see) but yeah, the 5th gear shift fork does look bent... like it was held down at the shifter pedal to try to hold it in 2nd?

I just went and looked at some transmission pics I had and the shift forks look to be in the right order and arranged correctly at least.

Tod

[adam79]

I apologize for the bad pics, I only have a cell phone cam right now. After another round of trail and error, I noticed that the shift drum isnt fully rotating into the positions that it is supposed to, therefore the drum (where it makes contact with the pawl) isnt fully twisted enough for the pawl to sit right and grab it when I try to shift again. So, I fumbled with it until I got it into first, then I shifter with the foot shifter attached, and I shifted a harder with a lot more force than I had before, and it shifted through all 5 gears. Of course, I still have to turn the back wheel occasionally to get the slots to line up with the dogs, but 95% of the time it shifts all the way through as long as I slam it. Occasionally the drum will still hit short of its mark, and the pawl just wont catch it, so I have to shift back the other way then try again.

And this it what mine looks like in 2nd. It's hard to see, but the 2 small indicator lines on the drum and the pawl do line up