Newbie with a new bike w/pics '78 XS1100E

[rlundy]

Hi, just acquired this today. Started looking for a standard after finding this site-one of the best on the internet. This bike spent most of its life in S. FL, so its pretty faded and must've been near the beach at some point as it has pitting and rust almost everywhere. seems to have fairly low miles although from looking at the file, it looks like the odometer stopped in 98 at 19,384-but no way these tires have been ridden in the last five years for any distance.

The PO said he had it running with new plugs and a carb cleaning, but fried the CDI (Ignitor box) when he jumped it after a battery died. Decided to believe him and have a used box off ebay on its way tomorrow. We'll see.

The front brakes are locked, makes moving the bike a pita. Does this indicate a caliper rebuild/replace or would it be an MC problem? the MC was replaced at some point with something off a newer bike (plate says it requires DOT4 fluid). Am thinking its likely calipers.

At this point, want to get it running with some new tires ( the file had a receipt for the rear-from 1994-yikes!) and brakes, then start seeing what else needs to get done.

Your thoughts appreciated.

Thanks,

Robert

[Cobia]

Welcome to the site and the world of XSesses

Hope you're in FL as a few of us are. Looks as if you picked up a nice Std. Engine doesn't look too oxidized, unlike mine!! Well, as you know, everyone is here to help so ask away!!
Remember, three turns at the carbs!!

[Cobia]

re: Brakes...

Look for the "spooge hole" string. It is a pressure relief orifice in the MC that MUST be clean/clear in order to allow the pressure from the front calipers to diminish and loosen the grip on the pads.

[prometheus578]

"Three turns at the carbs... Bah!"

Sorry, I suppose that was too harsh.
What I meant to say was...
If one takes one's time and does a thorough job, it should only take "one" turn at the carbs... not the infamous "Triple Clean"; the mark of the slovenly mechanic.
Geez... if ya have the time to clean your carbs three times... maybe you should have taken the time to do it right the first time.
Sorry, Cobia... but that phrase "Triple Clean" has stuck in my craw now for a number of years.
Rlindy... the brake master cylinder is probably gunked up. There's a tiny orifice, commonly called "the Splooge Hole", that gets plugged. It's a relief valve of sorts, and if it doesn't work, the brake calipers pistons can't retract.
You should disassemble the master cylinder and clean it. (You should clean it THREE TIMES... but, if it were me, I'd only clean it once.)
But until you do, if you open the bleed valve on the caliper, that will relieve the pressure in the system and make rolling the bike around a lot easier. Just don't re-squeeze the brake lever... or it'll lock up again.
Any more technical questions... just ask.
Before you go out and buy parts that you really don't need... ask.
Before you start crying and take it to a mechanic.. ask our permission first.
T'aint nuttin' on that bike that you can't be a fixin' yerself.

[Hideki]

Sorry, I suppose that was too harsh.
What I meant to say was...
If one takes one's time and does a thorough job, it should only take "one" turn at the carbs... not the infamous "Triple Clean"; the mark of the slovenly mechanic.
Geez... if ya have the time to clean your carbs three times... maybe you should have taken the time to do it right the first time.
Sorry, Cobia... but that phrase "Triple Clean" has stuck in my craw now for a number of years.
Rlindy... the brake master cylinder is probably gunked up. There's a tiny orifice, commonly called "the Splooge Hole", that gets plugged. It's a relief valve of sorts, and if it doesn't work, the brake calipers pistons can't retract.
You should disassemble the master cylinder and clean it. (You should clean it THREE TIMES... but, if it were me, I'd only clean it once.)
But until you do, if you open the bleed valve on the caliper, that will relieve the pressure in the system and make rolling the bike around a lot easier. Just don't re-squeeze the brake lever... or it'll lock up again.
Any more technical questions... just ask.
Before you go out and buy parts that you really don't need... ask.
Before you start crying and take it to a mechanic.. ask our permission first.
T'aint nuttin' on that bike that you can't be a fixin' yerself.

Aint that the honest truth

[CatatonicBug]

Definitely sounds like a spooge hole issue. I had the same thing happen on mine. I took a giant set of channel-lock pliers to the calipers to loosen them, and then was able to move the bike, but when I grabbed the brakes to stop, it wouldn't let go again. Just take the MC apart and look for a tiny hole in the chamber that leads from the piston to the reservior. It's so tiny that even a standard sewing pin is too large to fit inside it. I had to use my tiniest sewing needle to even get the tip to penetrate the hole. Once I did that, and put it all back together, it works great. Watch out for the snap rings (circlips) that hold the pistons in though. Might want to get a pair of snap ring pliers if you don't already have some. The exploded view of the MC parts in the manual was a huge help for me to understand what I should expect to see falling out of it once I opened it.

[madmax-im]

OK here we go...Congrats on getting the '78 !From the looks of things you're gonna need more than cleaning the Spooge/Splooge(?) hole in the master cylinder.I had the same issues and when I dis-assembled both the front and rear MCs there was nothing really obstructing them...Given the amount of corrosion you have on the bike,I suspect the calipers are rusty and thus are sticking..it just might be a combination of clogged spooge holes and corrosion of the pistons in the calipers.As PROM has said and I will too...theres a ton of information here and also people willing to come and help in person...so whatever you do...ask here first.I've seen more than a few make the mistake of going to a "mechanic" of questionable skill and knowledge and pay through the nose and taken advantage of.This site rocks.So bring it on and welcome to CH.11!

[randy]

Benny!

Congrats on GURU-hood! The beers are on you, now!

[madmax-im]

Benny!

Congrats on GURU-hood! The beers are on you, now!

I Thankyou Sir! It feels good...I'll await official recognition from the XS Gods before offering any choice words.I am celebrating with some Tequila though...it'll be my pleasure to buy the beer(s)

[randy]

No, there are no Gods here, only Administrators, Moderators and us common folk.

[madmax-im]

No, there are no Gods here, only Administrators, Moderators and us common folk.

Well this is just an expression...guess I mean the Mods not the Godsbut in reality there are Administrators,Moderators,Gurus and the common folks.OFC the title some what implies a certain level of knowledge..which I admit I have in very limited quantities.I am however more knowledgeable than before joining this site.The process is ongoing to be sure.But it does feel good to have reached the "PROM-ised land"

[rlundy]

I appreciate the feedback. Am going to try and get started on the brakes later this week. Should also have the new CDI box late this week and can see if the bike starts. And yes, I'm in Florida, St. Pete to be exact.

Tonight I did tackle some tough jobs (ha,ha)

1. light machine oil around the ignition switch-was very, very stiff-still cannot get the fork lock to engage. clicks nicely now and doesn't seem like its going to break the key off.
2. Same treatment for the fuel tank locking cap. Anyone know the best place to find the fuel tank cap gasket thingie? mine looks rather dried out.
3. Got the thing titled. Lots of people put this off, but with the economy being what it is, you can walk into any pinellas county DMV and get served very fast. was in and out in 15 minutes with my "antique" license plate (at 30+ years old, FL gives you a little break on the fee and the ugliest blue plate ever seen)
4. Got a walmart cover (choice was sport or cruiser, got the cruiser version) which fits very well and seems nicely constructed. SWMBO is not exactly happy with my "project" so no garage for it yet.

#3 was/is always my biggest concern. Some DMV officials will be a pain if the title isn't filled out correctly. In this case the PO lived out in the country (yes, down a dirt road) and never titled the bike, just had the signed title from the previous-previous owner-who had given the bike to the PO's grandmother in lieu of some back rent. So if DMV had given me any static I was going to be SOL on getting any help-especially on a $400 bike.

Thank you for all your offers of help-it will be used. I haven't owned a MC since I was 15, until getting a 150cc chinese internet scooter several months ago. Since it was over 150cc, I had to take the MSF course which was really good-and which got me back onto a real MC (well, a honda rebel). Wrenching on the scooter is fun and you can get a reliable little scoot for errand running for less than $1000 shipped, as long as you make the correct mods. Since I love a project, I decided to figure out what older UJM had the sort of look/price/parts/forum necessary for someone with decent mech skills. Finding this site and getting a copy of Bob Jones book sort of clinched what to look for (really enjoyed XS Eleven Heaven-fun read). And I like standards, which became almost non-existent in the 80s. Plus, the prices for CB750 project bikes were just too much.

Good story-in 1978 I had my XL100 and needed a brake lever-Mom took me to the Honda/Yamaha dealer in Myrtle Beach-sitting on the floor was a freshly uncrated XS Eleven Standard in Macho Maroon. I used to have the brochure-the biggest MC brochure I've ever seen. Unfortunately thats been lost, but I never forgot that bike. And now I own one, just 30 years later.

[TopCatGr58]

Hey there Rlundy,

Congrats on a rare find! Now, just an FYI, it's a TCI(Transistor Controlled Ignition), not a CDI(Capacitance Discharge Ignition), BIG difference. Especially if your old OEM coils measure badly and you want to put new ones on, you'll want ones for standard style ignition systems with 3 ohm resistance, not the fancy 0.7ohm resistance CDI coils!! There are some 1.5 ohm high power coils out there...DYNA, but are $$ and you can get some very good hi performance 3 ohm coils from MikesXS.com, just have to bypass the ballast resistor! New wires, plug caps, and you'll have about the most spark power you can get for the $$!

The fork/steering head lock will only lock with the bars turned far, I can't remember which direction...never use it myself. You also have to push IN the ignition key to get the key lock barrel to turn LEFT to slide the lock pin out to engage the steering lock. However, if you go too far you'll set the switch to PARK which turns on the parking lights, and can run your battery down very quickly. Better just to get a BIG OLE CHAIN and LOCK, the steering lock can be easily broken anyways!

There are online manuals as well as printed ones, plus lots of info in the tech tips that will not only help but will keep you from getting into trouble possibly damaging things more severely IF not followed properly, so highly suggest a thorough reading of them ALL!!!! That and searches in the Forums will usually get you most of the info you'll need, but if you get stumped, definitely come back and post, we'll help!
T.C.

[XSPastor]

Gas cap rubber seal

I got one at MikesXS for my special. Not sure what yours looks like. Take it out and match it up with the pictures on the site. They should have what you need. Good prices too.

[rlundy]

Thanks for the tip pastorXS. Am almost afraid to take mine off it looks so fragile-but one of the seals from mike's xs looks close. Nice to know they are in brooksville, only about an hour away.

Now, as to the spoogehole: This bike has either an aftermarket master cylinder or one from another bike. its all metal and black. Do all MC work the same (spooge hole and all)? Was going to look around for an orig MC but someone sniped the full front brake set on ebay.

Also, this MC has markings indicating it requires DOT4 fluid, not DOT3 as the original. I think you can always go up (use DOT4 or 5 if 3 is recomended) but you can't go down, correct? Of course I have a whole bottle of DOT3, but no 4. thoughts? Am thinking a tear down of both MC and caliper may be in oder after looking at pics of some of the other caliper pistons around here (Cobia's thread I think.