Won't go into 3rd

[planedick]

Parts

I doubt very much you will have to go to a Stealer for those parts. I'm pretty sure that there are a number of xsives here that can help and will probably chime in soon.

[oldyam80sg]

You are not alone in riding and being a beginner.We all have been there.Riding is forever a life experience.We are constantly learning.I guess that riding for as long as i have,i don't think about shifting into gear.It just comes naturally.You will get the hang of it.Good luck if it is not a mechanical problem.

[XSPastor]

So far the emphasis has been on alognment of the shift pawl.

Actually I mentioned the drum, plate and pins in the very first response to his post...

By the way, if the pin or pins are not in the shift drum, they are probably in the bottom of the crakcase somewhere. Better go fishing with a magnet before you button her up. That pin could cause some problems if it flew around in there.

[XSPastor]

er... I mean Crankcase. I hope you don't have a case filled with crack!

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Pastor,

You only get half points, because the missing pins and bent plate were only involving his 5th gear, but he was having problems with 3rd!

Bug, even though these are big bikes and big motors, they are NOT HARLEYS, they like to be run at the mid/higher rpms more so than lugging at the lower rpms!! I rarely run mine below 3K rpm once I get it going. Other's here like to lug along at 2K to 2500 rpm, but I feel that puts too much stress on the engine and drivetrain especially if you are running in the higher gears.

Also, the power band of these engines just start kicking in at 4-5k rpm. Dan Hodges..engine builder/modder extraordinaire cautions against running the engines up too close to the 8.5k rpm of redline due to worn valve springs and chances for floating the valves and getting them bent by pistons hitting them!

SO....when I ride, I get it going and then run it up to 4-5k rpm before upshifting, but if I'm accelerating onto a highway on ramp I'll take it to 8K rpm before shifting. Again, the dyno run printouts usually show that the power curve starts to flatten at the 7.5K-8k rpm range, so taking it higher doesn't do any good to both engine or acceleration/torque!

Don't be afraid to crank the throttle a bit, but also you need to back off of it for just an instant to release the tension on the clutch/trans to allow shifting into the next gear before reapplying the throttle. Using the clutch lever allows this reduction in trans tension while not letting the rpm's race, will take some practice but you'll get it!
T.C.

PS, you don't need to order the parts from your local dealer, www.bikebandit.com allows you to search for your brand/year/make/model and bike/engine section, and order the parts direct. You can find the OEM Yamaha #'s on the official Yamaha site, see the LINKS forums for the URL!

[Ken Talbot]

Keep in mind that if that pin is missing, it is probably sitting in the bottom of your crankcase. Shouldn't do too much damage if it just sits in there but at some point, you're going to want to go looking for it.

[XSPastor]

Is there an echo in here?

[CatatonicBug]

Thanks for the help guys. And yeah, I think I heard that echo too

I went searching for that pin and the flap of the star thing that broke off (that allowed the pin to come out), but I could not find it. Could it have come out in a previous oil change? I have drained the oil twice so far, but who knows how many times it's been changed since the 5th gear problem started...

I lucked out since none of the gaskets tore even the slightest bit! I just put them back together the way they were. I found the pin and other parts at bikebandit, so I will start the puppy-eyes with SWMBO, and maybe I'll get them soon.

I was able to start it up and ran it through the gears with the clutch held in, and it seemed to go through them fine (up to 4th anyway). I think it may be just an issue of me not being totally familiar with this particular machine and what kind of gentle touches it wants. I noticed that downshifting from each gear was SUPER easy with it standing still in my driveway. Just the slightest touch downward and it fell down to the next lower gear. I think I just need to practice and learn the feel of this bike, and I'll be fine.

I'll let you know if the problem I thought I had comes back though!

[Ken Talbot]

Is there an echo in here?

Oops Oops Oops Oops

[mitch]

Gentle

Thats not a word you use when shifting an XS more like firmly and with purpose! Dont try to ease the bike into gear shift it like you mean it and you will find it shifts fine. Dont worry about missing a gear we all have done that . Just ignore the Clunks and rattlles when you shift thats just the nature of the beast. Good luck and stay between the poles!
Doug

[XSPastor]

Well said, Mitch!

[Jerry]

I am actually missing the 5th gear pin on the shift drum, just like Jerry suggested.

Gee, I actually got one right! Experience is the best teacher....

BTW, Bug, there is a Search tab near the top of your screen. You can use this to search past posts on just about any XS11 topic, and its a handy place to start looking for information.

[planedick]

No doubt

These machines shift like a tractor, but man when you twist the grip they go like a rocket.

[CatatonicBug]

I did manage to get it to shift into 3rd today! I was trying to use this process:
1. drop throttle and grip clutch lever
2. raise shifter
3. remove foot from shifter
4. increase throttle and lessen grip on clutch lever

I determined that what I needed to do was NOT do #3 before #4. After I figured that out, it actually stayed in 3rd gear!

Exactly what I meant by learning this particular machine's intricacies. Is this particular thing normal? I figured that lifting the shift lever would pop it into gear, allowing me to release the clutch and engage the tranny. Why would it not do this? Why would I need to hold it in place while engaging the tranny?

[Ivan]

I did manage to get it to shift into 3rd today! I was trying to use this process:
1. drop throttle and grip clutch lever
2. raise shifter
3. remove foot from shifter
4. increase throttle and lessen grip on clutch lever

I determined that what I needed to do was NOT do #3 before #4. After I figured that out, it actually stayed in 3rd gear!

Exactly what I meant by learning this particular machine's intricacies. Is this particular thing normal? I figured that lifting the shift lever would pop it into gear, allowing me to release the clutch and engage the tranny. Why would it not do this? Why would I need to hold it in place while engaging the tranny?

Mostly because there are no syncronizers in this tranny. On a cage, the syncros act like a break between the two gears whic are coming into contact during the shift. This brings the driving part and the drivin part (which ever gears they may be) to the same speed before the gears engage. The XS transmission relies on you to make the shafts spin the same speed for a smooth shift.

I rarely use the clutch on an upshift. I just back the throttle down with a quick flick while holding a bit of pressure on the shifter. Since the engine will need to go slower at any given speed in a higher gear, letting off the throttle will relax the tension on the gears and let the tranny slide into the next gear up.

Down shifting is another matter. I usually clutch for that. I have found that it is easier to use steady pressure on the shifter and let the tranny shift when it feels like it. Especialy first. If I try to shift into first while still running 40 mph, even with the clutch, the difference in speeds on the gears is still very large and will result in a noticable clunk.

Most of my theory comes from driving trucks (Peterbuilt, International etc) on the farm. The big transmissions don't have synchros, and most guys I know don't clutch them at all except for stopping.

In summary, you need to think about where the engine rpm will need to be for the next gear (higher or lower) and throttle the engine toward that for easier shifts.

Clear as mud? Good.