any input before i dig in again?

[MartyA]

Hi beechfront.

I had recollection of the same problem. I have had K&N indy's since I bought the bike many years ago. One spring after cleaning I accidently put too much of the K&N filter oil on the filters. The bike would NOT go over 4500 RPM, it bogged right down. I re-cleaned the filters and put them back on dry just to test, and it wound up fine. So I have been less liberal in the filter oil application.

Did you answer the question about the spark plugs? What do they look like? Clean them well or start with new ones, run for a minute at 6000 RPM, do the throttle chop and look at the plugs.

And I would check anything else that might limit your RPM. Ignition stuff can be finicky, timing ( I had that problem), vacuum advance hose leaking (I had that too). Is your battery up to snuff?

I think the pilot is mostly for idle to ~2000 RPM.

About that gas on the floor, one spring I started my bike - after its long hibernation - and then went in to dress for a trip. When I went back out there was gas running down the driveway. One of the float needles had stuck open. Either varnish or a small piece of dirt got in there. Fortunately I was parked on a hill and did not get any into the crank case. Watch for that also.

And thinking of your safety, I think on your private jetway, running a test at 6,000 RPM + in second gear will probably tell you what you need to know. Until you get it running right, you can calculate the MPH you could have hit at 6,000 RPM in 5th.

Let us know!

[ACE]

This sounds like the very same problen I had this winter while putting my 1100 together this winter. I bought it with alot of work left to do. It came with indy filters. When I got it running your discription fits mine to the T. I checked everything. I was advise to remove the indy filters and try the air box. CRAP I hate them. I did the switch and it runs great! I don't know why but might be worth trying. Could be like the others are saying about blockage or the indy filters making a to lean condition.
I'll be following this as I like the indy filter looks. Riding weather is here so I don't want to kick the sleeping dog now!!!!
Good luck
ACE

[beechfront]

well everything was working fine before i made the switch to the indy filters. i was prepared to re-jet. however i'm having more problems than i anticipated. Do ALL individual air filters need oil? i know the k&n ones do - this is unfamiliar territory for me and I can't see how one would apply oil to these as there is no way to get them apart.

Also - just this morning I noticed a brass tube sticking up on the front left side of the #2 carb. there is also a rubber hose coming up from the left side of the engine which is not plugged into anything - doesn't look like it has been for quite some time either. I am thinking that opening maybe causing me problems as well.

this is a huge learning experience for me - i hate to put the original air filters back on as their such a pain to work around - but i may end up trying that if i can't get this to work today.

[Ken Talbot]

The brass tube on #2 carb supplies the vacuum for the vacuum advance. The hose is the vacuum line for the vacuum advance. Connect the two and you will probably see a bit of a change in performance. Of course, if your pick-up coil wires are broken, getting the advance working may cause another problem - sudden, intermittent loss of spark to two cylinders at a time. At least if that happens, you'll know where to look next...

[beechfront]

i wonder if there is a reason it was unhooked? you'd think they would have plugged off the holes though. will try to see what happens.

THANKS

[MartyA]

It is possible to run without the vacuum advance on my 78. I also had problem twice. A tiny piece of grit had gotten into the race for the vacuum advance plate, effectively stopping the vacuum advance from working. Another time I had a crack in that tube, which allowed the vacuum to work, but only a little and only momentarily.

While you have the left side off, be sure you can rotate the vacuum advance plate back and forth with little effort. While there see if the centrifugal advance is also free.

I don't think either of these would cause the 4-5,000 RPM limit you are experiencing, but they will reduce the acceleration potential you have with an XS.

Actually if there is too much oil (or too much time between cleanings) you tend to run rich, due to the lack of air passing through the filters.

I was just talking to the PO and when he had my 78 he tried to put the original air box in to replace the indy's, but the bike would not run. He found the jets had been replaced, and the only way it would run is with the indy's on.

[CA.XSer]

Beechfont

Read the link that MartyA posted above: Repost below

http://www.factorypro.com/tech/carbt...m_engines.html

I think this will answer your questions about pilot jets and fuel level.

[beechfront]

yes that is an excellent link - unfortunately it has not helped me. I am afraid that what I feared true just may be - and that is that RiskyBusiness was right and the pod filters are acting like a choke at high rpm (i was finally able to locate the thread which he was referring to and that sounds just like what was happening to me). I was able to change jets around and it would get slightly better - but still dies after around 5500-6000 rpm. There is a rubber lip that looks like it allows room for airflow to the other ports - but now i'm thinking it may not be enough at higher rpms. For now I've put it back to stock. This is not over yet - just put on hold until I get my gas leak problem fixed (which the carb kit did not). I also may be dealing with some electrical problems - twice during this process I lost spark.



thanks everyone for your help. i learned a lot just over the weekend.

[RiskyBusiness]

A quick test on the pod issue would be to just pop the pods off and run a quick 3rd gear test with open throats. Do it now before the dust gets up in the summer and you should be OK. If it pulls fine at 5k with the pods off then you know that it's time to invade Podville.