Cam Chain Tension

[firecrackerboom]

I followed the procedure for the cam chaing tensioning, now the bolt sticks out a bit, and i still notice the sound of (I think) the cam chain rattling from time to time.

How far out are you supposed to unscrew the bolt and nut to retension the chain? Are you supposed to notice a noise when it retensions?

[CarolynS]

You did set the timing mark to 'C' before hand, right?

Probably a stupid question....but....

[firecrackerboom]

Yes, I followed the Clymer Manual and the instructions on this site. Open timing cover, take out spark plugs, turn clockwise to "C", loosen the nut a bit, loosent the bolt a bit, retighten. reassemble.

[geniusloerts]

you should only have to take it back a little bit as the tensioner is like slide/spring set up. you push it all the way back tighten down the retaining bolt(gently, they strip easy) reinstall the tensioner, loosen the retaining bolt, you should here a click, then re tighten the retaining bolt.

Don't forget to do what carolyn asked about, have it at the "C" mark under the left side timing cover.

If the sound persists it may be time for a new chain...

[firecrackerboom]

Originally posted by geniusloerts
you push it all the way back tighten down the retaining bolt(gently, they strip easy) reinstall the tensioner, loosen the retaining bolt, you should here a click, then re tighten the retaining bolt.

Sorry about asking so many questions, but what you are saying is a bit ambiguous.

"You push it all the way back" - what is it?

"Reinstall the tensioner" - when did i uninstall it?

Don't you do anything with the nut?

[psycoreefer]

You may or may not notice a noise, depends on how loose the chain was. You don't have to loosen the bolt much once the nut is loose. Maybe a half a turn to 1 full turn should do it. If you have some doubts then do this:
1.Set your timing mark to C again as if you were going to tension the chain.
2. Remove the two bolts that hold the tensioner on and take it off.
3. With the tensioner off the bike loosen the adjusting bolt a bit. However far the tensioner rod pops out is how much adjustment you have left.
4. (optional) If you want you can continue to loosen the adjusting bolt and eventually the rod and the spring behind it will pop out, careful not to loose the spring.
5. With the bolt loose push the rod all the way back into the adjuster housing as far as it will go. Now tighten the bolt to hold the tensioner rod in place.
6. Install the tensioner back on the motor.
7. Loosen the bolt and you should hear the "click" as the rod slides out to tension the chain.
8. Tighten the adjuster bolt and lock nut.
9. Your done.

BTW if you don't see your rod move when you loosen the adjuster bolt, you need to replace your cam chain. Mines got maybe 1/16" of movement so its on the winter to do list for me.

[randy]

You DON'T have to remove the tensioner unit.

"C" mark,
loosen lock nut,
loosen lock bolt,
tighten lock bolt,
tighten lock nut.

That's it.

if you still have noise, you may need a new chain (if that's where the noise is coming from). Get yourself a mechanic's stethoscope, invaluable tool to help locate the source of a noise.

[psycoreefer]

Your adjusting bolt shouldn't stick out any further then it did before you made the adjustment.

If you loosened the bolt to much you may have allowed the tensioning rod to come to far out. How far out did you turn it? I think you'd have to go 4 or more full turns for that to happen.

It works like this, there is a rod with a foot on the cam chain side, and a spring on the other end that sits inside that tensioner housing. This rod has a flat on one side. The adjuster bolt pushes on the flat edge of the rod to hold it in place. When you loosen the bolt, the spring pushes the rod in causing more tension on the cam chain, then you tighten the bolt to lock it in place. If you loosen the bolt to much the rod can extend past the flat area. I'm not sure what problems this might cause but if you suspect you may have loosened the bolt to much you should pull the adjuster housing off the motor to check it. Its only two bolts to get it off.

[firecrackerboom]

Here is what it looks like. I don't believe it was out that far before, but there was so much crud on there, maybe it was?

[randy]

Looks normal.

BTW, hate to disagree, psycoreefer, but that plunger will NOT extend too far unless there is something gawd-awful wrong in that engine. The cam chain would have to be way streched out or the chain guide broke.

[firecrackerboom]

maybe that will fix it... i remember loosening the bolt and then the nut the first time i did it.

[psycoreefer]

Originally posted by randy
Looks normal.

BTW, hate to disagree, psycoreefer, but that plunger will NOT extend too far unless there is something gawd-awful wrong in that engine. The cam chain would have to be way streched out or the chain guide broke.

I agree the chain would have to be at the end of its life. If the chain was stretched to the point of no adjustment left the last time it was adjusted. Then the bike was ridden for *a while* Then the bolt was loosened off far enough, the adjuster would "extend" past where the flat stops. I could see it happening.

[Korr]

Hey Firecracker check out my thread "Wondering about engine noise" I am having cam chain noise also. If after you do the adjustment and the noise is still there, follow Psyco's steps and see if that helps. I've done the adjustment 3 times so far and still have noise and have not heard a click. I will have to pull out the tensioner and adjust it according to psyco's steps. I do not believe that i need a new cam chain yet because my bikes only got 34k miles. I will definately pick up the mechanic's stethoscope so that i can isolate the noise and find out for sure where that noise is coming from.

[ClarkGriswald]

Remember when you take the tensioner off the bike.. if you leave it adjusted like it is (dont loosen it). you can pretty much tell how much adjuster you have left before it bottoms out (how far you have left on your chain!!). Even if ya dont actually measure anything just observe where it is then loosen the bolt and let it extend the rest of its normal range.. If it barely moves you have a pretty loose chain.

[TADracer]

Confusion, confusion

If you do not take the tensioner off of the bike and push the plunger back into the body you probably will not hear an 'audible click' as it is described in some manuals. But the spring should still take the tension up on the guides. If you take the tensioner off and push the plunger back in then you will hear the click when you release the plunger but the result should be the same. You do not need to remove the tensioner from the motor to adjust.

If you want to see if you are at the end of the adjustment then do the adjustment like Randy said above with the tensioner on the motor. Then remove the tensioner from the motor. You will see the plunger and spring. It stays captured in the body by the pinch bolt that rides in a flat spot on the plunger shaft and that will keep the plunger from shooting across the room when you undo the pinch bolt. Now, back off on the pinch bolt SLIGHTLY. If the plunger clicks out to the stop then you are not yet at the end of the adjustment. If it does not come out any further then you are at the end of the adjustment and it is new cam chain time. While you have the part out of the bike take it apart and clean it up. It is a simple piece and you will see how it is made and how it works. The body is fragile so do not overtighten the pinch bolt or nut.

Concerning chain noise, even when well adjusted the chain on these motors will make some noise. It will never be totally quiet, if that is what you are expecting.